I always thought when I went by the sled with the mad bass that it was way cooler that the plate and everything DIDN'T RATTLE. IMHO it shows fit and function. but....it is the princess' sled...gurls got style.
The modern stereo system
- Thread starter Princess Valiant
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I always thought when I went by the sled with the mad bass that it was way cooler that the plate and everything DIDN'T RATTLE. IMHO it shows fit and function. but....it is the princess' sled...gurls got style.
chinze57
Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die
If you’re going for sound quality, do some decent kickpanels up front. The ones from RetroSound are very small drivers and won’t provide the mid bass - treble that you’d want.
I put in 80 mil Kilmat along my entire floor and on the package tray and then mounted JL Audio C2-690TX three-way 6*9’s in my package tray in a boom mat enclosure with the bottom removed to keep the bass response. I’ll be adding 5 1/4” JL Audio speakers in kickpanels up front as well as two smaller speakers with bass blockers center mounted in the dash, and a smaller single sub eventually.
For sound quality, you want the soundstage (where the music sounds like it’s coming from) to be in front of you. Like there’s a band right in front of your windshield. Good quality drivers at your feet are excellent for that. They give the sound more space to your ears and will sound better than a speaker on the dash would.
if you’re going for peak loudness, get an amp and a couple 6*9’s and some big subs and do that. Don’t worry about kickpanels.
Alternatively, two 12” subs is a lot of sub bass and bass. That will be loud but it’s not going to be the best sounding music. You could get a smaller single sub and have someone custom tune an enclosure for your application. That will maximize bass response throughout the spectrum in your car, much better than any prefab enclosure will. Getting one designed will run around $100.
ChrisRomello
Well-Known Member
I’m planning a similar system in my car. First of all, you’re better off with ONE 12” sub with a ported enclosure than two. A properly sized enclosure for a single 12” sub is about 2.5 cubic feet and for two you have to double that and having two is overkill in my opinion. The bass begins to drown out the mids and the highs to where they’re competing for air space. Also, leaving the package trays empty will not help with improving the bass. A good set of 6x9 component speakers will add depth and balance to the sound. In additionally, good sound deadening and secure wiring will aid in an excellent sound system. Finally a good equalizer will help improve the sound and balance. I hope this makes sense!
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
I was pretty big into Car audio when I was a young buck.... There are many ways to make a sound that fits you..... If I remember correctly I fit a set of Dual voice coil CV's with a set of 8" 3 ways in the rear deck of my last Duster. Plate speakers in the doors and a set of Tweeters in the Dash speaker area. 3 Amps crossover, blah, blah, blah and I took my time tuning the gains so it sounded like actual music and not some gangster shitbox with 20's thinking they are getting all the attention they deserve...... Don't be that crap. Make it sound like a concert with some good insulating components.....
Rubber sound deadner is your friend. Ideally if you can make minimal sounds out of the vehicle and put your hair on fire inside the interior you will be pleased with your setup.....
As for the flavor of choice, other than Alpine equipment which I currently run in my 4 runner and has done flawlessly in 8 years I don't know. Expect to spend good money on good components. Full connectivity to your phone is IMO imperative.... And no need to cut the dash. Look at the stand alone head units. Car audio isn't for everyone however most of us appreciate good music and for those not into I am not sure they have ever sat in a well tuned audio system....
JW
Rubber sound deadner is your friend. Ideally if you can make minimal sounds out of the vehicle and put your hair on fire inside the interior you will be pleased with your setup.....
As for the flavor of choice, other than Alpine equipment which I currently run in my 4 runner and has done flawlessly in 8 years I don't know. Expect to spend good money on good components. Full connectivity to your phone is IMO imperative.... And no need to cut the dash. Look at the stand alone head units. Car audio isn't for everyone however most of us appreciate good music and for those not into I am not sure they have ever sat in a well tuned audio system....
JW
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
I wear earplugs at work religiously. And I no longer listen to music loud. Good times growing up but now I'm older and life moves on lol.... In fact I use hearing protection whenever the situation arises....
JW
Here's my stereo
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Mono on my 66
I was going to suggest a ported box except it depends on what your listening to. I like a ported box, it’s a good all around sound. It works real well in the wife’s car. In my car, it is a sealed box for the heavy metal and hard rock music.
The "problem" with those 3" dash speakers is that the high frequencies they reproduce are directional.
What should be imaged as left and right channels will appear to all come from the center.
NOT a good thing if you're a fan of stereo imaging like I am.
Most of my car system builds use 10's or 12's but not subs.
I like a good 60 Hz hit but not really into boomy booty bass stuff.
That being said, those systems sound great playing Nine Inch Nails and stuff like that.
What should be imaged as left and right channels will appear to all come from the center.
NOT a good thing if you're a fan of stereo imaging like I am.
Most of my car system builds use 10's or 12's but not subs.
I like a good 60 Hz hit but not really into boomy booty bass stuff.
That being said, those systems sound great playing Nine Inch Nails and stuff like that.
Make sure to get a head unit with Apple Car Play / Android auto for the navigation aspect . Maybe a double din below the dash... I refret not having that .
Oops.. I meant regret but refret works even better ..lol
Oops.. I meant regret but refret works even better ..lol
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
FYI, I just recently found that some companies make a Bluetooth amp.
No actual stereo needed at all, and it has sub output.
Any Bluetooth device can connect to it and play your music.
It also lets you use your phone for navigation info over the stereo.
I use mostly Bluetooth in my car for music, navigation and hands free phone calls.
May be an option.
2, 12” subs would rattle the car pretty bad and cover whatever efforts you put into the rest of the speakers. You’d pretty much have to adjust everything to the point the 12’s would be useless or at least worth the downgrade to a single 10” sub in a ported truck box (low profile) or one of the under-seat units referenced by a few in this thread. Most “head units” come with a very small built in amp that could push 2, 3.5” speakers. Anything more, really, should have an amp and some cross-overs ran to the remainder of the speakers. Sounds like a Bluetooth head unit is the most modern and less invasive solution for a modern system.
Kick panel 3.5-4” speakers and rear deck 6x9’s, under-seat sub, with a Bluetooth head unit and an adequately rated amp to push it all would probably be the way I would go.
Kick panel 3.5-4” speakers and rear deck 6x9’s, under-seat sub, with a Bluetooth head unit and an adequately rated amp to push it all would probably be the way I would go.
In my 66 Cuda I want two systems. The original AM/FM radio and the 6 x 9 front speaker in the dash. The second system will be two 6.5 in drivers in the trunk divider with 2 EMIT tweeters in the sail panels. Frequency range 50 Hz to 32kHz with crossovers. I would get a receiver with MOSFET power IC. I'm looking at Kenwood and Pioneer with preamp outputs and 4 x 22W RMS of power. Don't confuse size with quality. I like my music very clean and clear. Just the way it would sound if you were there. I use a 256 GB thumb drive to store my favorite, scrubbed music collected from over 50 years. 1,000+ songs take up only 5 GB of space. Maybe 50+ hours of all kinds of music without a repeat. These are not clipped MP3, files but audiophile lossless files. All digital, no 8 tracks, no cassettes, no CD's and no moving parts for playback. Just a thumb drive to plug in. If you want more power just use the rear outputs to an amplifier and extra speakers.
I currently have a 25 WPC Pioneer head in my 73.
Pushing incredibly efficient and responsive 5" woofers in ported boxes with real nice soft dome tweeters.
You will want more than 25 WPC for any serious volume.
For 10's or 12's I'd suggest 80-100 WPC
Pushing incredibly efficient and responsive 5" woofers in ported boxes with real nice soft dome tweeters.
You will want more than 25 WPC for any serious volume.
For 10's or 12's I'd suggest 80-100 WPC
chinze57
Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die
Pioneer and a couple others make single din headunits with 7”-10” floating display. Pretty nice. Wireless android auto and Apple car play, preamp outs, and can add a backup camera and side cameras if you want. Was looking at one for my car. I’ve got a decent bluetooth single din atm that I had laying around.
chinze57
Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die
One of the best systems quality wise I’ve ever heard was using a single 8” sub under the back seat in a custom enclosure. You could hear the bass and experience it perfectly and still get amazingly clear response in the other frequencies. Really excellent experience, and other cars around us weren’t really feeling the bass from our music. Standing outside the car with it turned up you could feel it, but it wasn’t overkill
There are a bunch on Amazon pretty cheap. There are also ones that are targeted to old vehicle use like what we have, but they are 5-10 times the price. Don’t know what you get for that, probably just a lot of markup.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Why does a ported sub-woofer box have to be any larger than a sealed box? If it's ported, I would think the size of the box is irrelevant.
Sorry, but I am seriously LMAO at that. Totally anemic!
Triple the main speaker power and double and a half at a minimum for a single sub.
(She did say she likes the bass thump.... AKA LOUD!)
In my Magnum, it’s 90 watts RMS/180 peak @ the rear deck 6X9 Infinity Kappa’s. The sud is a 10 inch Pioneer at a RMS of 150 watts/300 max.
As your Pop probably said, “Son, if you’d goona hit it, hit good and hard!”
Actually a speaker will have specs that will dictate the size of the box needed. Sealed & ported boxes may vary a little or a lot depending on a few factors. It really is a tuning thing.
Radio Shack has a book on it that is actually really good.
pishta
I know I'm right....
I have an HP oscillator and HP dB meter and I ran a sweep to see how high I could hear. I hit 12k and it just dropped off the radar but the dB meter still showed it was carrying on right through 20k. So I'm pretty tone deaf above 12k. I was tuning up an old Cassette deck and thought the heads were magnatized or shot but it was just me.
Is this you.....
Which is why not everyone needs high end audio. We are all different.
90 nominal/180 6X9’s vs 80-100 for your what now?
150 nominal/300 peak for my 10 inch sub, vs your 80-100 watt, nominal? Peak? 1 sub or 2 @ 10 or 12?
She did say she loves it loud.... and something about a hard hitting bass..... if such is the case, on a stereo system, there is no kill like overkill.
I had one earlier system (my first multi amp set up in the ‘80’s) a Pioneer 4 channel amp powering the 4 cabin speakers at 30 watts nominal/ 60 peak and a 10 inch sealed su. Powered by a JVC amp @ 150/300, nom./peak.
I’d call this a better balanced system in all though not loud by any means.
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