HOW TO INSTALL CRACKEDBACK'S HEADLIGHT HARNESS

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I notice you are using the passenger side plug as the trigger plug but in crackedback's post, he says to use the drivers side as the trigger.
[FOR SALE] - Plug and play - Headlight Relay Kits
I'm just getting ready to install mine. No directions came with it, but it looks simple to do, plus I'm reading over posts here first as well.

He emailed the instructions to me so if you want a copy to have if any issues arise I’ll be more then happy to forward them to you!
 
Ah, good point. Cracked did ask when I wanted the relays so mine worked out well connecting to the drivers plug.
I just got mine installed. Can't wait to see the difference at night. Already I see they don't oscillate at low idle any more, which is nice.
Update: Well, the light do still oscillate a little at idle. I'll have to google why that happens and see if there is a fix.
 
Update: Well, the light do still oscillate a little at idle. I'll have to google why that happens and see if there is a fix.
The lamps are sensitive to voltage, and at slow idle a standard alternator just puts out enough power to engine and lights at the regulator setting. So you're probably seeing the voltage drop toward battery voltage from around 13.9 to 14.2. The ammeter should show just slight oscillation between charge and discharge. If more than that, or if it occurs under conditions other than at slow idle, then suspect low alternator output.
 
The lamps are sensitive to voltage, and at slow idle a standard alternator just puts out enough power to engine and lights at the regulator setting. So you're probably seeing the voltage drop toward battery voltage from around 13.9 to 14.2. The ammeter should show just slight oscillation between charge and discharge. If more than that, or if it occurs under conditions other than at slow idle, then suspect low alternator output.
Thanks! I'll get a meter on that battery and test. I'll pull the alternator as well and just have it checked as well.
I should just replace it either way, and the regulator too. The regulator must be old, it say's Sears on it, lol.
 
Thanks! I'll get a meter on that battery and test. I'll pull the alternator as well and just have it checked as well.
I should just replace it either way, and the regulator too. The regulator must be old, it say's Sears on it, lol.
Not sure what you mean by getting a meter on the battery.
Checking the battery condition can be done a few ways.
Battery acid tester - check each cell.
Voltage measurements will give a rough idea of condition.
Engine off. 12.5- 12.8 is good. If its above that, flip the lights on for a second to remove surface charge and remeasure.
Cranking the engine (Starting), voltage shouldn't drop below 10 V or so.
Current and voltage under load. This needs an ammeter and carbon pile or similar/equivalent.

Checking the alternator and regulator can be done a few ways. A lot of the new and rebuilt stuff is not very reliable.
One way to check the regulator is with the engine warm and running measure system voltage. (Clip on at the battery or alternator output stud, whatever is convenient).
Increase the engine rpm to 1000, then 1250 and 1500 rpm. Voltage should remain the same.

A rough check of the alternator output can be done in a similar way.
Make sure the battery is charged so you know its not charging much if at all during the testing of the alternator.
Turn on equipment that draws current and bring the rpms from idle to 1250.
At 1000 and certainly 1250 rpm, the voltage should be the same as in your previous test even with lights, heater fan, wipers on.
*If you have an ammeter in the instrument panel, it may show discharge at slow idle and all equipment on, but should zero at the higher rpms.
..If you have an inductive ammeter, you can slip it over the alternator output wire and measure its output current.
 
does it come with instructions on connecting the wires together and which colors? Usually I'm searching for problems such as "no spark" and the like...and here I didn't notice I could purchase a set of relay and wires and it was a sticky.
 
another thread left looking for and ending
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Hey guys,
The fix for me was to remove the cover off the regulator and then clean up what looks like points. The gap is super small, and a regular sheet of paper was all i could get between the points, and that did the trick. No more oscillating.
I found that fix on a different thread, not sure what one.
 
Finally got my new headlight switch and finished up my install of Rob’s headlight wiring kit. What a great upgrade to do! Easy to install and it made a huge difference in how bright my lights are. Add the safety factor and it’s a no brainer. Very well engineered and manufactured kit, thanks!
 
Finally got my new headlight switch and finished up my install of Rob’s headlight wiring kit. What a great upgrade to do! Easy to install and it made a huge difference in how bright my lights are. Add the safety factor and it’s a no brainer. Very well engineered and manufactured kit, thanks!

Thanks Mark.
 
Just something to add that might help. I installed crackedback's headlight wiring upgrade, plus his heavier alternator wiring kit, when I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator. Because of the heavy wires going to the alternator post, I mounted a marine-grade stud on the fender next to the alternator, ran one heavy wire from the alternator to the stud, and tied in everything else to the stud. Made a little neater connection. Works great so far in my engine test runs.
That's a good idea any picture
 
Just a thought.

And since I have not seen the wiring diagram to hook up the harness I might not be understanding this correctly....

But if you tap off the alternator post to feed the headlights then when the engine is not running wouldn't the power to feed them ultimately be coming from the battery and then through the bulkhead then the ammeter then back through the bulkhead then to the alternator post. (Assuming no MAD bypass)
 
How often is that situation in play? Headlights are on most of the time with the engine running.

Unfortunately, there is no perfect location to pull power in all scenarios with an OEM wired muscle era mopar.
 
How often is that situation in play? Headlights are on most of the time with the engine running
I agree, but it will happen.

Unfortunately, there is no perfect location to pull power in all scenarios with an OEM wired muscle era mopar
Pulling it from the starter lug where the battery attaches would be my choice.
Don't get me wrong I like your product I just found the main power attachment odd.
 
Don't get me wrong I like your product I just found the main power attachment odd.
Try this analogy.

Picture a water system with a storage tank seperate from the well pump..
Join the tank and pump together with a manifold in between them.
The manifold supplies the main circuits that feed everything else.
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If the tank is at 12 psi, and the pump is providing at 14 psi, where is the water going to flow from ?
 
Pulling it from the starter lug where the battery attaches would be my choice.
Don't get me wrong I like your product I just found the main power attachment odd.

In your approach, you'd tax the ammeter and bulkhead x2 in a manner the OEM never intend in the normal operating manner. I prefer the load not generally touch the bulkhead or ammeter in 99%+ of the operational environment.
 
Try this analogy.

It's works like a water system with a storage tank separate from the well pump..
Join the tank and pump together with a manifold in between them.
The manifold supplies the main circuits that feed everything else. If the tank is at 12 psi, and the pump is providing at 14 psi, where is the water going to flow from ?
I get why you would tap into power from the alternator post, but if part of the reason of doing this is to bypass the bulkhead connectors it doesn't do that when the engine is not running. That is all I am pointing out. Did not mean to stir up a hornets nest.
 
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