Air Shocks

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I installed new Monroe MA704 air shocks today. I used independent lines for each shock and eliminated at least 2 possible leak points by doing it this way not to mention the other benefit that was discussed. There were 2 factory holes in the tail pan that I used to mount the schrader valves. I used 55psi to get my car sitting right. Every point got a good dose of ant seize. Now to see how long they last and how much maintenance will be required. eventually I will get new or beef up the springs on the car. I like these air shocks better than the unsightly and more rough riding helper springs that I ran for a while. Thank you, everyone, for your experiences/perspectives!
 
I run 12psi and they work just fine

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I installed new Monroe MA704 air shocks today. I used independent lines for each shock and eliminated at least 2 possible leak points by doing it this way not to mention the other benefit that was discussed. There were 2 factory holes in the tail pan that I used to mount the schrader valves. I used 55psi to get my car sitting right. Every point got a good dose of ant seize. Now to see how long they last and how much maintenance will be required. eventually I will get new or beef up the springs on the car. I like these air shocks better than the unsightly and more rough riding helper springs that I ran for a while. Thank you, everyone, for your experiences/perspectives!
Good luck with your choice!
I ran them on a '72 Challenger and they did start to break the spot welds on the crossmember. And this was NOT used to jack up the rear of the car. I was using them to pre-load the passenger side to improve drag strip launches. My suggestion is to fully weld your shock crossmember. And examine the welds once in a while. its much easier to repair the crossmember if you catch it before its completely torn loose.
 
Good luck with your choice!
I ran them on a '72 Challenger and they did start to break the spot welds on the crossmember. And this was NOT used to jack up the rear of the car. I was using them to pre-load the passenger side to improve drag strip launches. My suggestion is to fully weld your shock crossmember. And examine the welds once in a while. its much easier to repair the crossmember if you catch it before its completely torn loose.
Thank you for the advice......
 
Hi all, didnt want to start a new thread on air shocks. I'm thinking about a set of Hi-Jackers for the '70 Dart (Ive run them on my Caprice for 20+ years with no problems). Just curious where anyone who has them puts the fill valve, Id like to avoid drilling holes in the body/chassis if possible. The Dart is just a cruiser, no track days, just want to raise the stance a little for that old school rake.

Any suggestions? Thanks =)
 
I used an independent fill valve for each shock on my '74 Duster......and I was able to find 2 factory holes that were in the tail panel behind the bumper where I mounted mine...they were a perfect size. When I get the chance I will post a picture.
 
Hi all, didnt want to start a new thread on air shocks. I'm thinking about a set of Hi-Jackers for the '70 Dart (Ive run them on my Caprice for 20+ years with no problems). Just curious where anyone who has them puts the fill valve, Id like to avoid drilling holes in the body/chassis if possible. The Dart is just a cruiser, no track days, just want to raise the stance a little for that old school rake.

Any suggestions? Thanks =)

Read post #6 for a good recommendation for A body Air Shocks. The Gabriel Hijackers ride like a lumber wagon, too stiff. Plus the upper bag shells have clearance issues with the Gas Tank.

Post #6, is what we use on the A bodies. Adjusts the height and gives a good ride too.
 
I used an independent fill valve for each shock on my '74 Duster......and I was able to find 2 factory holes that were in the tail panel behind the bumper where I mounted mine...they were a perfect size. When I get the chance I will post a picture.

Thanks, Ill have to look next time I drive the car. As long as I can access the valve itll be nice and hidden

Read post #6 for a good recommendation for A body Air Shocks. The Gabriel Hijackers ride like a lumber wagon, too stiff. Plus the upper bag shells have clearance issues with the Gas Tank.

Post #6, is what we use on the A bodies. Adjusts the height and gives a good ride too.

Thanks for mentioning the Monroes. I did look more into it and they have a lot of positive reviews, plus they come with a spacer for clearance on our A-bodies. Ill go with those!
 
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To me it just looks a little droopy in the behind. I’d like to see the rear tire sidewalls at least.
 
The correct fix would be a new set of shocks & leaf springs.
Air shocks are a bandaid, and are not good for the car.
Joe Dirt digs them though.
 
a few comments:


actually that's not true (although they are certainly used that way), airshocks are designed to make it possible to to put he rear at the proper ride height when carrying a load - like you fill the car up to go off on vacation for 2 weeks, or in our case putting 3 rear end housings and four rear end pigs in the trunk to go to the swap meet. This allows you to put the car in a position that the whole suspension works properly compared to having the *** end dragging and the front end pointing at the sky. Of course there are those who might overdo it and go in the other direction like was popular in the 70s

Have to disagree here. How is putting 40-80 psi in air shocks to level heavy weight and putting 40-80psi in them to raise the rear different? You're putting the same stress on the upper mounts in both cases.


For the short term fix, I have been driving Darts with air shocks since 1973 and have never had a damaged upper shock mount (even when I was 17 and blew them up to 80 lbs to look cool when I cruised - what an idiot I was).

You mean like this...lol

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Hi all, didnt want to start a new thread on air shocks. I'm thinking about a set of Hi-Jackers for the '70 Dart (Ive run them on my Caprice for 20+ years with no problems). Just curious where anyone who has them puts the fill valve, Id like to avoid drilling holes in the body/chassis if possible. The Dart is just a cruiser, no track days, just want to raise the stance a little for that old school rake.

Any suggestions? Thanks =)

Trunk floor near the lock mechanism here on the '72 Swinger. 35 lbs has worked for enough clearance for 245x15s. The air lines did require replacing at 15 yrs of age :rolleyes:
 
I've ran several pairs in my lifetime without damaging the upper shock member. Your never going to get a 100% agreement on this subject. I for one don’t have a problem with them. You’ll wind up with more of an adjustable rear suspension.
 
Happy to hear so many success stories with A bodies, makes me wonder if the A body upper mount was welded a lot better than E or B cars?
 
Happy to hear so many success stories with A bodies, makes me wonder if the A body upper mount was welded a lot better than E or B cars?

I have a few A-bodies, an E and a B-body and the A-bodies were definitely NOT welded better as any kind of rule. There are plenty of cracked upper shock mount threads on here, this thread just seemed to collect all the rosy stories about air shocks.

They’re lousy shocks to begin with, even at the proper PSI. If you’re using them to raise the car any at all, then you’re putting weight on the shock mounts they weren’t designed to carry. Raising the car with the shocks means you’re making the shocks support the weight of the car, which isn’t what they’re supposed to do. They’re just supposed to dampen the spring movement, nothing else.

If you want to make your car handle like a dump truck just for looks, then air shocks are great. If you actually give a single crap about any kind of performance, they’re terrible in every way. Even if you don’t break anything.
 
I have a few A-bodies, an E and a B-body and the A-bodies were definitely NOT welded better as any kind of rule. There are plenty of cracked upper shock mount threads on here, this thread just seemed to collect all the rosy stories about air shocks.

They’re lousy shocks to begin with, even at the proper PSI. If you’re using them to raise the car any at all, then you’re putting weight on the shock mounts they weren’t designed to carry. Raising the car with the shocks means you’re making the shocks support the weight of the car, which isn’t what they’re supposed to do. They’re just supposed to dampen the spring movement, nothing else.

If you want to make your car handle like a dump truck just for looks, then air shocks are great. If you actually give a single crap about any kind of performance, they’re terrible in every way. Even if you don’t break anything.

Have to disagree here, again. How is putting 40-80 psi in air shocks to level heavy weight and putting 40-80psi in them to raise the rear different? You're putting the same stress on the upper mounts in both cases.
 
Have to disagree here, again. How is putting 40-80 psi in air shocks to level heavy weight and putting 40-80psi in them to raise the rear different? You're putting the same stress on the upper mounts in both cases.

Literally nothing I said is in disagreement with this.
 
Literally nothing I said is in disagreement with this.
Air shocks were originally designed to level the rear of a vehicle when hauling heavy weight. No one disagrees with their usage there. Using them as intended puts the same loading on the upper shock mounts as using them for jacking up rear of the car. I’m not proposing you put 150psi in them and drive around. I only have 35 in mine to get 1-2” lift. Not “terrible in every way” and my car handles nothing like “ a dump truck”.
 
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Air shocks were originally designed to level the rear of a vehicle when hauling heavy weight. No one disagrees with their usage there. Using them as intended puts the same loading on the upper shock mounts as using them for jacking up rear of the car. I’m not proposing you put 150psi in them and drive around. I only have 35 in mine to get 1-2” lift.

Uh, yes, I disagree with their original usage. They’re a cheap, poor thought out band aid no matter how you use them.

In either application, you are using the shocks to support weight. If the car is loaded, the suspension sags. If you use air shocks to “level” the car with that load, guess what? You have raised the car at that loading, by taking weight off the springs and putting them on the shocks.

The bottom line is, you are using the shocks to carry weight the suspension should be carrying. Shocks are there to dampen the spring reaction, not carry weight. And air shocks are a lousy design for a shock to begin with.

Run them if you want, but if your goal is performance and not just looks, air shocks are a poor choice.
 
Air shocks were originally designed to level the rear of a vehicle when hauling heavy weight. No one disagrees with their usage there. Using them as intended puts the same loading on the upper shock mounts as using them for jacking up rear of the car. I’m not proposing you put 150psi in them and drive around. I only have 35 in mine to get 1-2” lift. Not “terrible in every way” and my car handles nothing like “ a dump truck”.

Well......not really. Using the air shocks to level a car out with a heavy load that it probably was not designed to carry puts more load than "just raising the car, because it has the weight of the car, PLUS the load pushing down.

That said, I'm not condemning air shocks. Tons of them have been used over time quite successfully. But IMO, if they are used as intended, to level out heavy loads, it should be only temporary and not something done all the time. The repeated use in that situation is what will beat the shock mounts all to pieces.
 
And here we are again. Can’t we agree to disagree? Why does it have to be one way or another. Fortunately we all have a choice on the subject.
 
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