318 Magnum first fire...timing?

[67Dart273]

While all is true enough number 1 tower can be any place and indeed it will run, but now put on your custom purchased sparkplug wires and tell me how well they fit. lol

I posted this in an attempt to clear the air about "all the magic." the fact is this too can be easily fixed, even if the dist tang is offset. Just rotate the intermediate shaft "some" until you have it in the appropriate place.

 

[TrailBeast]

While all is true enough number 1 tower can be any place and indeed it will run, but now put on your custom purchased sparkplug wires and tell me how well they fit. lol

Those custom wires are never good enough so I like to make my own.
I have been known to pull the distributor and intermediate shaft and put it back together “wrong” just so I could reorient the plug wires or vacuum can where I want them.
Gotta find something to do outside when the wife drinks ya know.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Those custom wires are never good enough so I like to make my own.
I have been known to pull the distributor and intermediate shaft and put it back together “wrong” just so I could reorient the plug wires or vacuum can where I want them.
Gotta find something to do outside when the wife drinks ya know.

 

[Super-Cuda]

 

[Furyus67]

Update: Second Attempt

I do believe I had my timing 180 degrees off. I took the #1 spark plug out and put my thumb over the hole and felt it blowing out. When I reached TDC on that stroke the rotor was pointed backwards. So I pulled up the distributor and spun the rotor around.

I looked at a picture of the firing order and how each wire should be run to the plugs. Checked out.

This time when cranking, it seemed like every time I would let off the key, it would burp. Like it wanted to start when I would let off the key.

I guess I'll give a run down of everything:
5.2 magnum with stock rebuild.
Original distributor with pertronix
Flame thrower coil
MSD StreetFire Ignition Wires
Autolite Cooper Spark Plug 3924
I bypassed my ballast resistor with a straight thru wire.

I don't know what else might help diagnose.

Here are two videos:

 

[Kendog 170]

I bypassed my ballast resistor with a straight thru wire.

Did you connect your Ignition Crank and Ignition run wires together? If not that may be your issue.

 

[Furyus67]

Did you connect your Ignition Crank and Ignition run wires together? If not that may be your issue.

Can you explain a little more please?
This is what I did to the ballast resistor.

Then I connected the wires to the resistor as they were originally.

 

[Kendog 170]

What ignition are you using ? There are two wires on your engine harness one dark blue and one brown one gives power when cranking and one gives power while key on (run) they are connected together so you maintain ignition power during and after cranking. What you did may be right. You should be able to search something. Check your wiring diagram to make sure on colors but I think I'm correct.

 

[Furyus67]

What ignition are you using ? There are two wires on your engine harness one dark blue and one brown one gives power when cranking and one gives power while key on (run) they are connected together so you maintain ignition power during and after cranking. What you did may be right. You should be able to search something. Check your wiring diagram to make sure on colors but I think I'm correct.

 

[Furyus67]

The Saga Continues...

So I tried a few more things with the Pertronix Ignition. Charged my battery. Ensured it was over 12v, but for some reason I could only get 11.x at the coil. Wouldn't start. It would only burp like it wanted to start every time I let off the key from cranking.

I went and got a new points set, condenser, and ballast resistor. Got a feeler gauge and set the point to .020. Dropped in the distributor. Hooked up the battery and cranked. I barely touched the key and WHAP! Got the first start!!!



That was about the only highlight. I only ended up running it for a total time of about 10 minutes. It appears the head or intake manifold is leaking (aside from the video my oil is really foamy and seems like it has been mixed with coolant).



Also, my transmission is leaking fluid as fast as you can pour it in it seems like. It's leaking out of the bottom of the bellhousing where the dust shield is. The transmission was supposed to have all new seals put in. I don't know what's happening.

1 step forward and 8 steps backwards.

 

[macdrew77]

Congrats on the first start. Did you put RTV around the intake gasket coolant ports? I started doing that after I ended up with milkshake oil after an intake swap

 

[Furyus67]

Congrats on the first start. Did you put RTV around the intake gasket coolant ports? I started doing that after I ended up with milkshake oil after an intake swap

I don't think RTV had been used. I replaced the gaskets and used RTV and buttoned it back up. Have the transmission out but looking to fire it up again once I get the trans back in.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Don’t run it until you flush as much of that water out as you can. While you have the intake off sacrifice a few quarts of new oil and flush that crap down in to the pan and drain it. The water will trash your bearings in a quick minute.

 

[Fawkes]

If your intake end gaskets, or "china wall gaskets", are too tall it can make the intake not want to sit flush on the coolant ports. I like a big bead of grey RTV on each china wall, and a very light smear around the coolant ports, on both sides of the intake manifold gaskets.