Will you be using a factory roller cam block? Cheaper and easier than retrofit roller lifters.
No, I already have a 1968 318 in my garage that's never been bored.... I'll get a retro roller kit.Will you be using a factory roller cam block? Cheaper and easier than retrofit roller lifters.
And they’re environmentally friendly!I waited until after yesterday's car show, which was absolutely awesome, to start this.
I'm 54 with a bad back and can't keep wrenching forever.....so I'm rebuilding the Barracuda 100% completely to drive the piss out of it for the rest of my life!
By 100% I mean:
Engine
Transmission
Wheels and tires
4 wheel disk brakes
Altercation suspension (almost certainly)
Sub-Frame Connectors
Paint and body
Interior
I'm building it into a great DRIVER.....I want gobs of power, excellent braking, and handling like it's on rails.
Money is there to do this and if I don't do this now I'll regret it forever.
I have some very clear and written in stone ideas for the car that I promise not everyone will agree on. But it's my car, my vision and my dream.
First, let me get this out of the way.....the color.
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Yes, it's going GREEN.
I know it's a beautiful color already right now....and I know some will object to another green mopar.
Since I was a little kid I always fantasized of having a green Cuda. This is my chance and I'm going for it.
Trust me, it'll be beautiful.
Engine will be a 318/392 stroker, roller cam, aluminum heads, and fuel injection.
I'm hoping to work with RRR @RustyRatRod on picking the components etc because frankly I trust his opinion. ..along with input from all of you - I never close my ears to ideas.
Gotta have an overdrive of some sort for nice long drives.
MUST have butt-kicking AC! LOL....couldn't care less about the stereo.
The interior is the business end of the experience. ...like I said, bad back, so it's gotta be very comfortable and look great as well.
I'm not 100% on the altercation suspension but it has to handle, steer and stop as close to a modern car as possible.
I work a lot....a LOT....so I only really have weekends to work on this.....
The only things I'll farm out is the machine work on the engine and the paint and body work. I'll do everything else.
So, I have a great little running and driving car out there in the garage....kinda wondering where to start...
Tear it apart and get the body out for paint and get the engine out for machining is sorta what I'm thinking. .
Thoughts and comments are ABSOLUTELY welcome!
This is gonna be fun!!
Jeff
Yes, I was thinking about that last night. You definitely want to tie the frame. With my last Challenger I stroked my 318 and that thing was a beast. Good luck Jeff. It will be fun.No rotisserie. ...
Oh, forgot to mention it's gonna get sub-frame connectors. ...
Sounds like a great build, Jeff. 10 weeks is not that long.
What kind of horsepower are you looking for?
I think your plan is going to come together really well, go, stop, and turn, all while being comfortable in a car you clearly love.
Sorry....those are long gone.....1968 318 factory bore 9.2:1 pistons with full floating rods.
If you are tossing them out, you can toss them my way.
7 months out on seat covers from LegendaryThe supply chain may be a challenge right now?? Maybe get a wish list of parts. With each part get a couple of suppliers? Contact them about lead time.
Also maybe talk to paint n body/resto shop to see what they offer as advice?
Good luck!
"specialty foot" ?ask around about hydraulic retro rollers. It seems to me, I heard that, they are heavy pigs and don't handle revs well. But going from memory, they may have improved them in the last twenty years.
Solids will solve that.
The Magnums, IMO, are a better design.
And I have heard that the Magnum blocks have better metallurgy, with longer lasting cylinder walls.
And you can now get heads for them with LA intake bolt angles, so that intake selection is wide open now.
Something to think about.
Plus the last time I checked, the cost of hydraulic retro roller-lifters was ridiculous. For a streeter, I'd rather spend the coin on a solid flat tappet with the specialty foot.