Firing order

-

Brian Bearor

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
48
Reaction score
4
Location
New York
Just purchased a 63 Valiant with a 225. It has been sitting for a bit and running rough. Completed a tune up and the firing order was not to spec. Use the firing order below now will not run. Is it incorrect?
FB_IMG_1619875304799.jpg
What am I missing? Thank you for all suggestions.
 
The dist might have been installed out of phase with the crank.

As in the rotor might be pointing at a different post on the cap when the engine is at TDC of the compression stroke on the number 1 cyl.
 
That is the correct firing order, but..
Make certain that the rotor (inside the cap) is pointing to the wire for #1 plug with the rngine at #1 TDC.
 
The firing order and direction of rotation is correct in the picture. What's not correct is WHERE the wires go in the cap. #1 should be where #4 is in the picture, if the distributor is still installed correctly. I agree with pulling #1 plug, get it up on the compression stroke, line the marks up on zero and see where the rotor is pointing.
 
That's correct firing order and distributor rotation. Check the points to make sure they're opening and they aren't pitted. Then check voltage at the coil when key is in run position and in start position. Or just crank to see if you get spark while cranking with a shorted spark plug wire. A voltmeter would make this job a little easier. If you are really new to this game maybe seek someone with some more knowledge.
 
Ok some "stuff." Some "rambling..........

First, the main reason on most cars that firing order/ wire location is specified is so that

Cut factory wires will "lay" right
The assembly line folks can "rinse, repeat"
And tune up guys "see what they expect"

There might be a fair reason NOT to change a working but so called incorrect wire position, especially on a slant. That's because..........

The dist gear is plastic and can be easily broke with screwin' round
The dist movement is limited, without moving the bracket clamp position using both clamp bolts........one on the block, and one under the dist.

HOW TO check/ set timing

Assuming you don't think the balancer ring has slipped--and there is a way to check that too.........pull the no 1 plug and devise a way to feel for compression. If you can't reach (on a slant) with your finger into the no1 hole, stick your compression gage hose in there or whatever. "Bump" the engine round until you feel compression starting to "come on." Now watch for the timing marks, and carefully stop the engine WHERE YOU WANT initial timing to be, such as 5 BTDC. Now look at the dist. With points, you want to adjust the dist from a retarded position towards advanced until the points just open

With an electronic "rough" set the dist so the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup coil Look where the rotor is located, install/ remove the cap a couple times and identify which tower the rotor is approaching. THIS IS YOUR no1 tower. You can also install the cap and check timing "on the starter." Put it together and start the engine
 
Last edited:
My first car was a 57 Chev 265 Hell for a long time I didn't know there WAS a "correct" no1 wire position. This was 66-68, when you pulled into a service station and actually got "service." One day one of the jocks told me, "that thing can't run, the timing is off. The wires are all wrong". Drove in it!!!! Drove it out!!!
 
IIRC all straight sixes are the same firing order...153624. Someone told me think of your fat girlfriend from 4th grade's measurements....! Doesnt matter where the wires are, as long as #1 lines up.
 
IIRC all straight sixes are the same firing order...153624. Someone told me think of your fat girlfriend from 4th grade's measurements....! Doesnt matter where the wires are, as long as #1 lines up.

Well.....it does matter if he took the wires off and they were on RIGHT, verses that WRONG diagram he's using.
 
I've read on several post to place a finger over the #1 cylinder hole to check TDC. I always wad up a piece of paper then bump the starter. Once the wad "pops" out then that's TDC. Works for me that way.
 
I've read on several post to place a finger over the #1 cylinder hole to check TDC. I always wad up a piece of paper then bump the starter. Once the wad "pops" out then that's TDC. Works for me that way.
I would hate to have the paper or what ever get sucked in ..
 
Picture from FSM. His hand is on #1 with #5 to the left of that. Note location of vacuum advance can and cap retention springs.
As already stated, if rotor tip is under #1 tower cap at TDC on compression stroke, it should start. A timing light will fire even while cranking.

20210502_090526.jpg
 
I would hate to have the paper or what ever get sucked in ..

The wad is shaped like a spit ball and is much larger than the plug hole. Been doing that since the '60's taught to me by an old gear head. But any rate, thought I'd share what worked for me.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I followed the instructions and it runs much better than before the tune up. 1 was at 11 o'clock and I had it at 6 o'clock.
 
The wad is shaped like a spit ball and is much larger than the plug hole. Been doing that since the '60's taught to me by an old gear head. But any rate, thought I'd share what worked for me.
thank you for clearing that up, I will do that next time sir :thumbsup:
 
-
Back
Top