Heat/sound insulation mat? I’m

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Brooks James

Brooks James

VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot
FABO Gold Member
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Pricing insulation.Do you think doubling down would make a difference. ??
Putting it inside the doors looks like a major frig ??
Suggestions that won’t cost $$$
 
Why do you wanna do it in the first place? Carpet will be a joy to reinstall. Are you going to do the headliner too? And the Trunk & Firewall?
 
72Dart6pack said:
Why do you wanna do it in the first place? Carpet will be a joy to reinstall. Are you going to do the headliner too? And the Trunk & Firewall?
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Mostly heat insulation as I am in Fl and running headers. Dougs won’t warranty headers that are wrapped. No trunk but cab firewall. Sound insulation is gravy, not necessary.
 
Check to see if Summit Racing has what you need in their brand. I got a sound deadener/heat barrier kit from them & it is much less costly than the name brands for the same amount of material.
 
My dart is done with it also my beater truck, roof, doors rear wall and floor with no carpet so I can wash it out. Really impressed with it and before some one says it smell's from heat not yet and it is right over my mufflers in the dart. two to three rolls should do your entire car.
 
I originally tried some dynamatt, did not like it at all.
 
Some of these items (like Dynamat) are almost impossible to remove at a future date. Is there a good one that is also removable without an act of God?
 
I used Kilmat on the floor & firewall of my 65 Barracuda. Maybe it helps with sound, but does nothing for heat once it warms up. It also made install of carpet trim and sill plates a bit harder.
 
I used Killmat on the floors, roof and trunk. Haven't gotten to the doors yet. Not sure I will it's purdy dang quiet and I'm happy with it.
 
I'm a hot rodder, I like removing weight not adding it. I always remove the undercoating as well. In the future people will be having a great time removing that stuff to restore cars. I like my cars hot loud and nasty. Just saying.
 
I used the Noico stuff from Amazon. It is a dynamat clone. I put it everywhere I could see. Really quieted the car down a lot. I used aluminum furnace tape for the seams. Just depends on what your goals are.
 
Wayoutfish said:
I'm a hot rodder, I like removing weight not adding it. I always remove the undercoating as well. In the future people will be having a great time removing that stuff to restore cars. I like my cars hot loud and nasty. Just saying.
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I’m all about the loud and nasty part. It’s mostly going to be cruising and stop lite to stop lite for me. This is my last full restoration and I don’t see having to replace it.
 
I bought a carpet kit on craigslist that came with a 30 lb roll of like a tar paper that was form cut to the carpet. Not sure who it came from but it was very good at damping road noise inside once I put it in. It sort of formed to the floor once I put it in as it was pliable. The silver stuff you get in rolls at a hardware store thats about 1/4 thick works well under the headliner and Ive seen it in doors but doors get wet inside and it may collect moisture. That tape stuff looks better for that.
 
Brooks James said:
I’m all about the loud and nasty part. It’s mostly going to be cruising and stop lite to stop lite for me. This is my last full restoration and I don’t see having to replace it.
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Hahaha, that's cool. Not everyone thinks about if it needs to be removed. It really boils down to what you want from your car. Good luck and enjoy.
 
Brooks James said:
Mostly heat insulation as I am in Fl and running headers. Dougs won’t warranty headers that are wrapped. No trunk but cab firewall. Sound insulation is gravy, not necessary.
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Lizard skin. It sprays on. Works good
 
Fatmat on the Newport

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