Have you tried disconnecting the brake line and unscrewing the wheel cylinder??? That's most likely what is holding the top up, the nail studs from the wheel cylinder to the brake shoes...
Brake drum removal HELP
- Thread starter Cuda Hunter
- Start date
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Have you tried disconnecting the brake line and unscrewing the wheel cylinder??? That's most likely what is holding the top up, the nail studs from the wheel cylinder to the brake shoes...
Cut the fuckin' drum in half....
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
Wafer wheel on an angle grinder.
Cut a groove across it.
Cut where you won't damage anything inside.
Cut a notch for a wedge.
Big hammer...... Bam bam bam.
We cut rusty cast conduit fittings all the time when a big pipe wrench doesn't work. The crack will follow the groove you cut.
Cut a groove across it.
Cut where you won't damage anything inside.
Cut a notch for a wedge.
Big hammer...... Bam bam bam.
We cut rusty cast conduit fittings all the time when a big pipe wrench doesn't work. The crack will follow the groove you cut.
The other side has had it done. It's not a bad idea because you don't have to remove the spindle nut and deal with "all that" if the drum will simply slide off. It's no big deal, because the drum is hub centric, not bolt pattern centric. The only ONE reason they swedged them on from the factory was to keep them from falling off going down the assembly line. Replacement drums have the holes so big, you couldn't swedge them if you wanted to.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
I don't know if this applies to your situation but have you opened up the bleeder valve to relieve any pressure that might be built up? I say this because I just had a drum that was frozen on my right front on account of the brake cylinder being full of rust inside and acting like a one way valve. When I stepped on the brakes it pushed the shoes out but the pressure would not release unless I opened the valve. The drum was totally locked up. When I opened the valve the drum came right off.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Ok, wow. Lots of comments really fast.
Here is how it worked out.
As 413 stated the stumbling blocks of the process up until now.
By cutting the nails I was then able to pry the bottom of the drum open enough to see the entire inside. I blasted all of it several times. Then heated the adjuster, then blasted it, then heated it, then blasted it. Nothing.
I got out the sawzal and cut the adjuster into two pieces. Didn't damage the drum since I could pry it apart after cutting the nails.
The second the adjuster was not in play the drum just fell off.
However with the adjuster on the upper cylinder was definitely the problem. This would have never released.
Here is how it worked out.
As 413 stated the stumbling blocks of the process up until now.
By cutting the nails I was then able to pry the bottom of the drum open enough to see the entire inside. I blasted all of it several times. Then heated the adjuster, then blasted it, then heated it, then blasted it. Nothing.
I got out the sawzal and cut the adjuster into two pieces. Didn't damage the drum since I could pry it apart after cutting the nails.
The second the adjuster was not in play the drum just fell off.
However with the adjuster on the upper cylinder was definitely the problem. This would have never released.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
This is the car I was working on today.
Thank you guys very much. Every single comment helped me get this drum removed. I'm very surprised how long it took. Hats off to every mechanic out there as I am impressed every time I complete a single small project.
Thank you guys very much. Every single comment helped me get this drum removed. I'm very surprised how long it took. Hats off to every mechanic out there as I am impressed every time I complete a single small project.
Well great! You got it off without a lot of carnage. That's always a good thing! Nice work!
Glad it’s done, feels good huh? Came right off with the swedge intact, It didn’t mean a thing as far as the binding problem.
Hope all readers learned something. I’ve done this task far to many times. Oxy-acetylene torch is my favorite tool!
Hope all readers learned something. I’ve done this task far to many times. Oxy-acetylene torch is my favorite tool!
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
It's really nice to see a problem through to the end. Congrats!
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
I bought it with intentions to cut it up for metal pieces for my true town driver. After getting it in the garage I realize that there is zero rust on the entire body. No holes. No bad rails.
I can't bring myself to cut the car up.
Figure I'm gonna stash it or sale it. Buy amd metal or piece's of other already cut up cars.
I can't bring myself to cut the car up.
Figure I'm gonna stash it or sale it. Buy amd metal or piece's of other already cut up cars.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
I sure appreciate learning what the swedge is and why it was used.
Truely thankful. I'm glad to have a thread that hopefully someone will be able to read all the steps to get these drums off when problems arise.
Truely thankful. I'm glad to have a thread that hopefully someone will be able to read all the steps to get these drums off when problems arise.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
I liked the idea of cutting a groove in the cast drum before smacking it to break it. Makes perfect sense.
If you can get a decent pry bar between adjuster and shoes, it should pop off.
From all the replies i can see lots of us have dealt with this a time or two. And different methods have worked.
Flying drop kick and a sledge hammer. Cutting drum sucks, but i have had to do it. Front spindle complicates it.
Glad to see you didnt let it win.
And not wanting to cut car up for parts, i can respect that. They dont make em any more,should mean something.
And not wanting to cut car up for parts, i can respect that. They dont make em any more,should mean something.
I'm really glad he salvaged the drum. They are getting harder to find every day.
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
A happy ending.
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