Paint delamination touchup, what am I doing wrong?

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Dana67Dart

Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Ok paint gurus...
I have a paint delamination issue. On the rear quarter, the factory paint (2007) started to delaminate in a small (quarter sized) patch.

I put some touchup paint on the spot 9 months ago before my daughter took the car to SD to school.

When she got home for the summer the spot was about 1" irregularly shaped, where the touchup paint was brushed on it stayed well attached.

So I figured I could sand the delaminating area to well attached paint, prime and paint and clear to make it look a bit better and stop the delamination from spreading.

I finally got to what I thought was good paint/primer and bare metal.

I applied several coats of primer to the effected area, then 4 days later, wetsanded the area to smooth off any high spots.

Al was looking good.

I applied the touchup spray paint to the area and everywhere there was a interface between "good" paint and the primer the paint sort of wrinkled up.

PXL_20210515_232644717.jpg


I got frustrated and said what do I have to loose, so I took it back down to bare metal and a "good" paint interface and just painted with top coat (no primer) same thing.

I am NO paint and body guy, but I was able to do a rust repair on my daughter's Jeep Grand Cherokee that came out so good I amazed myself.

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??????
 
So this is a 2007:vehicle with original paint?

What are the brands and type of paint and primer you are using for touch ups?

what did you use on the Jeep that turned out good?
 
413 said:
So this is a 2007:vehicle with original paint
Click to expand...

I'm 3rd owner, no reason to think or signs that it is not OEM paint.

413 said:
What are the brands and type of paint and primer you are using for touch ups
Click to expand...

Duplicolor touchup
Eastwood self etching primer


413 said:
what did you use on the Jeep that turned out good
Click to expand...

Don't recall the primer, duplicolor touchup
 
Seems like paint it is not adhering to the OEM primer.

Seems like primer will stick to OEM primer, till the topcoat paint touched the primer in that location then it does the same thing. Like the topcoat is softening the primer but only above the OEM primer oem paint bare metal interface
 
Dana67Dart said:
Seems like paint it is not adhering to the OEM primer.

Seems like primer will stick to OEM primer, till the topcoat paint touched the primer in that location then it does the same thing. Like the topcoat is softening the primer but only above the OEM primer oem paint bare metal interface
Click to expand...

Maybe the stuff you are using isn't good (bad batch). There are binders in the paint that react with the underlying layer to adhere and maybe the paint you have is lacking them.

Or there is some sort of contamination on the body before you paint
 
I'm assuming that since the OEM paint was delaminating that the OEM primer is the issue.
 
Maybe get a pre-vel and some paint shop paint and hardener?
 
In days of yore, we'd get that type of reaction when spraying laquer over an enamel primer... but it wouldn't happen with enamel over a laquer primer.
Heck, before decent wrinkle paint, we'd do it intentionally to duplicate a black wrinkle finish.
 
This is lifting. The top coat is lifting whatever you have under it probably on the feather edge. Self etching primer needs some time before top coating and only needs to be one light see through coat. Over application can cause the self etch to lift a top coat. You have two incompatible chemicals interacting.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Self etching primer needs some time before top coating and only needs to be one light see through coat. Over application can cause the self etch to lift a top coat.
Click to expand...

Tim Taylor is my middle name! "More Power" and as my dad always said, "some is good, more is better, too much is just right!"

I have started over and am applying very thin coats.

I had left 4 days between primer and topcoat. thought that would have been long enough but I probably applied the coats too thick.

Thanks for the advice.
 
All bets are off with rattle cans. Bottom line is something you are spraying doesn’t agree with something on the car.

You don’t need etching primer you need a sealer, and let it dry before topcoating. So you seal off what’s below.

Let’s move into the current day and use automotive grade paints with hardener. I used a low buck HF touchup gun for jobs like this and it works good.

A preval sprayer is just a piece of junk. The pressure drops as the propellant is used, how can you get a good result? I tried these things and it just makes it much harder to get good results. Wasted money is never a bargain.
 
^^ yes it chemically doesn't agree. I've seen it before with spray bomb primer and spray urethane paint over it. You have top read your labels and know if the paints will play nice with the primers, or don't use rattle can get a primer spray gun and use a primer that works with your paint.
 
Clean the surface well before applying any paint and primer....

They do not allow silicone lubricant in assembly plants because it causes problems with paint repair... Find out what will take off silicone and try that to clean the surface....
 
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