KICKDOWN For cable? Please help!

Aftermarket lever?

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Ironracer

Ironracer

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I have a Lokar cable attached to the proper bracket at the carb base, it's underneath the 750 vacuum on top of a Holley strip dominator Trans is a 727 i cannot tighten it up where I get full line pressure. The kickdown lever may or may not have come stock with the transmission it's a 1984 Dodge b200 van unit. Car is a 74 Duster. The lever that is on there above the shift shaft is approximately 2" on center. Bends up where the end where the original hole is in it. I don't want to tear up my transmission I would appreciate it if any of y'all can help
 
Never could get my Lokar cable to work right and it toasted my 727 so I chucked it and put a mechanical linkage on when I replaced the transmission.
I suggest you do the same as a mechanical linkage set is much cheaper than replacing a transmission.
 
Found mine had to be done right up tight to pull the kickdown lever right to the stop, but works great now. One important thing with a cable is that it's secured in a few places as cable housing flex changes the distance the cable inside has to travel.. think back to your model railway days with side by side tracks..
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Dragonsteel said:
Never could get my Lokar cable to work right and it toasted my 727 so I chucked it and put a mechanical linkage on when I replaced the transmission.
I suggest you do the same as a mechanical linkage set is much cheaper than replacing a transmission.
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Dig the name, Dragonsteel! Perhaps I phrased my post wrong. Mechanical, factory style is not possible in my application
 
dadsbee said:
Found mine had to be done right up tight to pull the kickdown lever right to the stop, but works great now. One important thing with a cable is that it's secured in a few places as cable housing flex changes the distance the cable inside has to travel.. think back to your model railway days with side by side tracks..
View attachment 1715744139
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What I'm trying to say, is there's a bend at the lever where's the cable goes the transmission in the lever itself. I seen remember reading something about drilling holes in the levers or possibly getting a different lever? But with that bend in the lever at the trans, it's going to be hard to drill a hole into it ...
 
kursplat said:
i didn't like the Lokar either, pia to adjust

look at the KD Mancini sells
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Everything's okay Just in Drive, it shifts at 6500 which is fine with me I can manually shift it, to push it higher. The problem is where it actually shifts decent, n drive, I'm not getting the throttle pressure at full line pressure by pushing it all the way back to the transmission rear
 
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dadsbee said:
Found mine had to be done right up tight to pull the kickdown lever right to the stop, but works great now. One important thing with a cable is that it's secured in a few places as cable housing flex changes the distance the cable inside has to travel.. think back to your model railway days with side by side tracks..
View attachment 1715744139
Click to expand...
I did that strap.at the bell that one looks like it's 4 conduit!.
 
I used a Lokar cable on my Super Six conversion on my wagon. The stock kick down bracket on the Trans stuck straight out, and wouldn't allow the cable to pull it completely at full throttle.

I happened to have the bracket from a late-model van (sorry, don't know the year) that pitched forward (towards the front of the vehicle) This bracket allowed the kick down to operate correctly.
 
flingdingo said:
I used a Lokar cable on my Super Six conversion on my wagon. The stock kick down bracket on the Trans stuck straight out, and wouldn't allow the cable to pull it completely at full throttle.

I happened to have the bracket from a late-model van (sorry, don't know the year) that pitched forward (towards the front of the vehicle) This bracket allowed the kick down to operate correctly.
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They get the only bracket I have is the little bracket to hold the end of the lokar cable I'm thinking it's the length of the lever that the cable attaches to just giving me the grief
 
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I think I got lucky with that stock van part curing my problem. You may need to weld an extension on to yours and experiment a bit to make it work.

I built 5 or 6 brackets for the manifold before I finally got one that put the kickdown and the throttle cables in the right place, and I built 3 different brackets for the throttle linkage on the carb itself.

I was really happy I didn't have to do that on the Trans side, that would have been no fun in the confines of my Trans tunnel.
 
The good news is I haven't had to touch it since I got everything dialed in. I haven't had any issues with the cables stretching or anything coming out of adjustment.
 
i've used the lokar set up on many vehicles and never had any issues with them they always operate correctly.. secret is to use the short abody kickdown leaver or drill one to the abody length...
 
abodyjoe said:
i've used the lokar set up on many vehicles and never had any issues with them they always operate correctly.. secret is to use the short abody kickdown leaver or drill one to the abody length...
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That's what I was thinking. My trans # runs as a 84 B200. It was in a guys 72 satellite. So, I probably need an different arm/ lever at trans. But sourcing any thing is crazy... I do have two other 727s... I could go out to the other property across town and look at em
 
2 inches ctc is the short lever. Some are clocked a little differently. So ur saying the trans will automatically shift at 6500 and u still don’t have full line pressure? Then it’s been highly modified. U probably have more pressure than u need now. I c ask check next week if u don’t find 1 sooner. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
2 inches ctc is the short lever. Some are clocked a little differently. So ur saying the trans will automatically shift at 6500 and u still don’t have full line pressure? Then it’s been highly modified. U probably have more pressure than u need now. I c ask check next week if u don’t find 1 sooner. Kim
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Hey, thank you! To my knowledge, it was rebuilt before I got it. Then it sat for 12 years, so I had it gone through B&M shift kit , a Kevlar front band is all i know of. Chirps 295/50/15s going into 2nd.... Thanks Kimmer!
 
Ironracer said:
That's what I was thinking. My trans # runs as a 84 B200. It was in a guys 72 satellite. So, I probably need an different arm/ lever at trans. But sourcing any thing is crazy... I do have two other 727s... I could go out to the other property across town and look at em
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there is a thread floating around here somewhere about it.
 
Ironracer said:
It's not the adjustment of the cable itself, It's The Lever set the trans, imho
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just an option. since it's a complete kit that comes with matching brackets and a new lever it might have saved some searching for the right part
 
Ran van cable type kickdown lever , and ram van cable holder bracket, along with return spring off a van with a 46RH. 1992 dodge dakota V8 kick down cable. Made carb mounting bracket using a piece off the bracket that mounts the cable on the throttle body end, along with a piece of the old throttle cable bracket and some 1/2" steel angle. I used an edelbrock TH350 bolt on cable end to clip the cable on at the carb end. The eddy 600 has the same throw as the OEM throttle body. All factory parts except for my carb bracket, and edelbrock cable end mount. Heard horror stories of the aftermarket cable kickdowns. This one operates smoothly, and returns nicely. Has a push button adjustment at the carb end. Cable is OEM. Matter of fact, I bought a new NOS mopar brand dakota cable to use. Cost $45 for the new cable. Kept the used mockup cable as a spare if ever needed. Other than the new cable, and edelbrock cable stud for the carb end, I got maybe $20 in used parts from the junkyard and a few hours invested in it.

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