Tore down my 383...

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royslead

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...and It appears to need a lot of work, for just having been rebuilt. Someone half-assed this, from the looks of it, beat it up, and sold it as "rebuilt." It came with the car I bought, and I knew I would be tearing it down to check; but I wasn't expecting to have to buy a crank (at least that's what it looks like to me). I swear, the more I get into this project, the more I am finding needs replacement. This is on the rearmost counterweight.
IMG_1119.jpg
 
...and It appears to need a lot of work, for just having been rebuilt. Someone half-assed this, from the looks of it, beat it up, and sold it as "rebuilt." It came with the car I bought, and I knew I would be tearing it down to check; but I wasn't expecting to have to buy a crank (at least that's what it looks like to me). I swear, the more I get into this project, the more I am finding needs replacement. This is on the rearmost counterweight.View attachment 1715771907
Are you showing the crank counterweight?
It's been ground on for balance.
What's the issue?
 
The cranks forged, twist forged.
No casting.:eek::D
It can very well be a crack... but a crack to nowhere. Surface hardened crack, shallow and never growing.
 
The cranks forged, twist forged.
No casting.:eek::D
It can very well be a crack... but a crack to nowhere. Surface hardened crack, shallow and never growing.

What the F ever. It's an imperfection. Cast, forged or plastic.
 
Agree, grinding mark or imperfection. Would expect a crack to be a fine line, not a wide line.
 
To the OP:

it seems you are frustrated with replacing parts. I’m not sure of your length of being in this hobby or maybe you don’t understand that most of these cars / parts are over 50 years old and have been handled by many people in their day. Even new parts today suck. Let along 60-70’s technology.

As for the crank issue- it’s hard to tell from a single picture. I would not run that crank until I had it checked out by a professional in person. $50 or so to let a machine shop check it is a good insurance policy then listening to people give an opinion from a single picture. Chances are it’s okay.
Keep us posted.
Syleng1
 
I could be mistaken, but isn’t stamping what makes a forging, basically the same thing? :poke: I know stuff cut in a die is also a stamping...
Yeah well...you can stamp a license plate or a fender, your foot.lol
Stamp forge vs die forging, one isn't as strong.. but now its splitting hairs.
"Plastic" had no dog in this was my arm poke .
But if you want to know that it's a red hot core twisted to its rough shape and machined the hell out of 'another reason for higher cost' check this out...
An In-Depth Look at Crankshafts

You can read all of the articles in your spare time. I think the entire board needs to..even if just a refresher
 
To the OP:

it seems you are frustrated with replacing parts. I’m not sure of your length of being in this hobby or maybe you don’t understand that most of these cars / parts are over 50 years old and have been handled by many people in their day. Even new parts today suck. Let along 60-70’s technology.

As for the crank issue- it’s hard to tell from a single picture. I would not run that crank until I had it checked out by a professional in person. $50 or so to let a machine shop check it is a good insurance policy then listening to people give an opinion from a single picture. Chances are it’s okay.
Keep us posted.
Syleng1

Thanks, I am very frustrated with the project, for a variety of reasons. I'm not new to this, at all - just haven't done one in a while, never saw a crank like this before (and ive built many engines), set a budget, finding it needs more than I saw during my initial look over. Took owners word it was rebuilt, and it was, just needs it again, because it was shoddy work, etc
 
Thanks, I am very frustrated with the project, for a variety of reasons. I'm not new to this, at all - just haven't done one in a while, never saw a crank like this before (and ive built many engines), set a budget, finding it needs more than I saw during my initial look over. Took owners word it was rebuilt, and it was, just needs it again, because it was shoddy work, etc
We here love pictures...
Can you show us the shoddy work you speak of?
 
I wonder what makes the op think its "shoddy work", don't you?

How about rings that are not gapped right, dirt that was in the bearings (evidenced by the grooves in them, and the fact they were "new," the mounds of silicone i scraped off of the water pump housing and as much inside the coolant passages, the pile of it on the fuel pump gasket, and stuck inside the mechanical arm of the pump, the frame mount on the driver's side that had the ear lopped off, and drilling the hole for the new position low enough, that the engine, sat 3/4" low on the left. This was not needed, as I reinstalled the engine over the weekend, to mock it up and figure out how I was going to repair the mount, before pulling it out again and disassembling it? How about the header tubes being bashed with a hammer enough to nearly close two of them off? They also beat the hell out of the right inner fender, to help fit the right side header in.Better yet- how about the original manifolds I found in the trunk, with 6 inches of pipe and then chrome exhaust tips attached? Wonder what led to the burning and sinking of the exhaust valves. How about the fact, they put the flex plate on with regular bolts and lock washers under them, along with not seating the torque converter, locking it up, such that I could not turn the engine with a 24" breaker bar? Let's see, so far, in the car, the seats were put in, using weight lift set collars, as spacers. Ok, I'll give them credit for not using twenty washers stacked in between the seat bracket and floor. Much of this I could not see, since the car was in a dark warehouse, when I bought it; and I bought it knowing I would have work to do, just didn't figure on everything I found (and what I haven't found yet) being this rough. By the way, some of my questions may seem noobish; I have never owned nor did much work on A bodies, or big blocks-but I can assure you, my 30 plus years as a professional tech, dealing with many vehicle makes and models, more than qualifies me to spot "shoddy" work.
 
Oh damn, sounds like the start of a deep project. The older and cheaper a car is bought for the worse the prior hacks hacked the car... One thing day by day and you’ll have a sweet ride next summer...
 
How about rings that are not gapped right, dirt that was in the bearings (evidenced by the grooves in them, and the fact they were "new," the mounds of silicone i scraped off of the water pump housing and as much inside the coolant passages, the pile of it on the fuel pump gasket, and stuck inside the mechanical arm of the pump, the frame mount on the driver's side that had the ear lopped off, and drilling the hole for the new position low enough, that the engine, sat 3/4" low on the left. This was not needed, as I reinstalled the engine over the weekend, to mock it up and figure out how I was going to repair the mount, before pulling it out again and disassembling it? How about the header tubes being bashed with a hammer enough to nearly close two of them off? They also beat the hell out of the right inner fender, to help fit the right side header in.Better yet- how about the original manifolds I found in the trunk, with 6 inches of pipe and then chrome exhaust tips attached? Wonder what led to the burning and sinking of the exhaust valves. How about the fact, they put the flex plate on with regular bolts and lock washers under them, along with not seating the torque converter, locking it up, such that I could not turn the engine with a 24" breaker bar? Let's see, so far, in the car, the seats were put in, using weight lift set collars, as spacers. Ok, I'll give them credit for not using twenty washers stacked in between the seat bracket and floor. Much of this I could not see, since the car was in a dark warehouse, when I bought it; and I bought it knowing I would have work to do, just didn't figure on everything I found (and what I haven't found yet) being this rough. By the way, some of my questions may seem noobish; I have never owned nor did much work on A bodies, or big blocks-but I can assure you, my 30 plus years as a professional tech, dealing with many vehicle makes and models, more than qualifies me to spot "shoddy" work.

Ok, then hit it with a flap disc on a grinder and call it good, Mr. 30 years.
 
The best thing you could do is calm down and form a plan.
It's your car now, make it right for you.
There isn't a man or shop on the planet that can do it like ME.
 
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