Kframe, engine bay, front suspension questions

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Thanks, I only sanded where there was a blemish/fuzz. I didnt end up sanding for smoothness. I googled and 99% of the results were to not sand the base coat. Definitely an acquired skill whether gun or spray bomb lol.
74 DART' said:
Looks good! Much better and now It has some protection. Did you wind up sanding between coats?
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4spdragtop said:
Wasnt sure which sub forum to post in, as everything I do seems to "domino".
I have "roller" front suspension removed from our 69. I removed rust and primed/painted and bedliner the pass side inner fender(outboard side). Drivers side is stripped and getting prepped.
I would like to paint engine bay once I clear out the rest of engine bay. It's been seam sealed and about 95% "ready" for paint.
Once bay has been painted i would like to install restored kframe and suspension.
So, painting engine bay....I can get an exact match in aerosol from Dupont for $42/can, 69 F8 Green. Not sure how many cans to do the bay and both outboard sides of inner fenders? OR do I paint gun it? We have neighbors directly on either side of us, so overspray and fumes may/probably will be an issue if I "gun" it.
So spray or gun?
Keep in mind I am trying to simply assemble and make progress while putting refurb parts on car(free up space). All while trying to make it more presentable for sale.
I would like it to look respectable tho.
Next the suspension.....is there an order of install for torsion bars forward? It's on axle stands now with most of the front suspension off.
I guess to sum up, should I rattle can or spray the bay? Keep in mind neighbours and a virgin sprayer lol.
Also order of assembly for refurb kframe and front suspension?
Pics as it is now.
Lol grandson Knox giving me a hand, can see him wondering wth have you done Papa!! Lol
Thanks
Steve

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I had NAPA blend and can the metal flake burgundy for my 66 Sat. 3 cans did it... if you go that route..
 
CFD244 said:
I brushed on some 2k epoxy since I have the same reservations that you have regarding spraying. This protects my metal, gives it a clean look, and can be lightly sanded and sprayed with more primer, or top coat by the new owner (which is what I plan on doing when it is ready for paint). And, since it is 2k, hopefully more durable than rattle can.

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Nice. Brushed? Cool deal..
 
Bodyperson said:
I totally understand. Mentally is a big drain too. I have tons of broken down **** around here. It weighs on you.
NOW. From a seasoned car flipper, restorer kind of guy, I like my **** original or bare. Foo foo stuff turns me off. I cant trust other peoples work. Thats how I roll. Not saying you do hack work but I would have to undo your work to please me. Others might not feel the same way.
Just saying man. I hope the best for your selling of the Barracuda.
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I, Am, by no means, a restoration pro. But I bought two Mopars ( l
the last 2 ive had) by two different, well off guys, that " redid every thing!" When you've got one bolt in a power steering box and it's only halfway tight, I wouldn't consider that redone. Or a "rebuilt" front end that you take apart because its a really old, abused one....I could go on. Anyhow the point I think I was trying to make is when you see Shady stuff and you want to rip it down it reminds me of walking into some of these old houses and wonder, what kind of crap they got behind the walls! And You'd be amazed at the faulty Electrical, Plumbing, and framing, I see behind shoddy drywall work. Its a sight and a sign of trouble
 
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4spdragtop said:
Thanks Troy! Yer talkin ball joints? I was gonna run old ones, BUT they both need boots lol.... :BangHead: and I would need to drill one out as its drum.
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I picked up polyurethane ball joint covers for my old joints that were still tight as heck, but had ripped boots. Those are the only things I was able to save on a " rebuilt " front end...
 
So sifting thru decades old stuff for the front end. Strut rod bushings.... the ones on left Energy Suspension polyurethane. On right are moog. Where the strut rod goes thru LCA, is there supposed to be a bushing in there? Or does the strut rod only get bushings on front of rod thru Kframe?
Thanks
Steve

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The ones on the left are correct for 72 down. The others are 73 up and are longer so u would need to cut them down or get 73 up strutt rods. Kim
 
This is on our 69. Now that its loosely installed with Moog on front and no bushing on rear, it looks right? Original 69 strut rods. That's what I want to use.
oldkimmer said:
The ones on the left are correct for 72 down. The others are 73 up and are longer so u would need to cut them down or get 73 up strutt rods. Kim
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Looks right to me, but Kim suggested that they (on the right) are for '73 and up, and the others (on the left) are for 72 and down?
 
There is no sleeve. I think the sleeves were for 73+??
Here is what bushings and cups look like on strut rod, not installed.
Threads on strut rod are 9/16" fine.
oldkimmer said:
Is the nut screwed down to the sleeve? If so u don’t have room for the roll pin. Kim
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Snugged up the front nut, backed off nut at LCA end.
Looks good to me? Leaving everything loose. Drive side next, then gotta figure out the torsion bars.

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CFD244 said:
What did you finally torque the front nuts to?
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I picked up a set of the Moog problem solvers last year somebody had them in a warehouse took me like 2 months to get em. They're obsolete now ( per Moog rep) I think it's an issue being able to get the good rubber i dunno. I told him I'm sure there's many people that would disagree with them being discontinued. If I could share the PDFs that I got from Moog,( when I called, they emailed me) I would. But it's 40 -60 at k member,and 135-150 at LCA. There are different specs for different applications, those are for 2 pieces w/ sleeve.. Also, unless the washers are labeled differently, or you have different instructions, the washer closest to the bumper cups around the bushing, the one on the back side of the opening in the K member ( closer to rear) the round part of the washer faces forward, the open part back, that allows it to swivel more. If anybody wants or needs a copy of that PDF I can email it to you no problem
 
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Ok so got some goodies from @kursplat , thanks again!:thumbsup: Torsion bar boots and all 4 tie rods!
The tbar boots are energy suspension poly. They are for the hex socket in the frame, NOT the LCA correct?
Also, which way do they go on the back end of bar?
Thanks all
Steve

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