Budget cylinder heads for a 318

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Dan the man

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Hello everybody. I've been out of the car scene for awhile and I'd like to put together a 318 for fun. Not looking for a lot of power, something like 300-325 at the flywheel. Thanks
 
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Hello everybody. I've been out of the car scene for awhile and I'd like to put together a 318 for fun. Not looking for a lot of power, something like 300-325 at the flywheel. I'm looking for a rust free dart or duster with power steering and ac. No project cars and car needs to be close to st.louis mo. Thanks

How big a hurry you in? A lot of these guy on here took advantage of the black Friday sale on Speedmaster aluminum heads last year. @318willrun can tell you all about it. He got some. I don't know if they'll do it again, but it's right around the corner if you can wait that long.
 
Hello everybody. I've been out of the car scene for awhile and I'd like to put together a 318 for fun. Not looking for a lot of power, something like 300-325 at the flywheel. I'm looking for a rust free dart or duster with power steering and ac. No project cars and car needs to be close to st.louis mo. Thanks

Do you already have an engine ?
Is Running or doing a rebuild ?
Does it need heads ?

a running magnum with 4bbl headers and small cam would easily get ya there

Or here's a LA stock long block with 4bbl xe262h headers making 282 hp @ 5000 rpm add a little compression 9:1 ish maybe slight pocket porting hit the 300 hp up cam to something like xe268h for 325 ish hp. The speedmasters would be good and probably add 50 ish hp to these numbers. Don't forget stall and gears a 318 gonna need more gear than a 340/360 minimum I'd go 3.73/3.91 with 26"/27" tire size.

318 Long Block Bolt Ons - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
 
300/325 for a 318LA is no small thing. This is more than a cam swap.
If your cylinder pressure doesn't keep up, the power will all be in the rpm....... leaving the bottom end very soft. Then you will need a hi-stall and probably 4.xx series gears to drive it at normal rpms.
Forget putting a manual trans behind a combo like that.
And forget running it at anything but close to sealevel. The higher you go, the weaker the pressure gets. Pressure is power, especially at lower rpms.
To make your numbers; besides the right cam and pressure, you will need heads, headers, a free flowing exhaust, the usual bolt-ons and probably fresh air to the carb.

IMO
you'd be better off and bucks ahead , if you lowered your power target, or just stuffed a 360 into it. It doesn't take much for a 360 to crank out 300/325 .
But if yur stuck on 318, then, a 5.2Magnum already has a 9/1 compression ratio, better heads, and was rated 230 NET horsepower ..... which might be closer to 270 on a dyno. With a small cam, and the usual bolt-ons, she'll be crowding your target and be ready for fun.
 
Do you already have an engine ?
Is Running or doing a rebuild ?
Does it need heads ?

a running magnum with 4bbl headers and small cam would easily get ya there

Or here's a LA stock long block with 4bbl xe262h headers making 282 hp @ 5000 rpm add a little compression 9:1 ish maybe slight pocket porting hit the 300 hp up cam to something like xe268h for 325 ish hp. The speedmasters would be good and probably add 50 ish hp to these numbers. Don't forget stall and gears a 318 gonna need more gear than a 340/360 minimum I'd go 3.73/3.91 with 26"/27" tire size.

318 Long Block Bolt Ons - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
Honestly, I'm in the planning process. I'm looking for a clean, rust free dart or duster. No project cars. Need it to have power steering and ac. I'm mainly looking for a fun car to drive and thought that a 318 could make decent power.
 
300/325 for a 318LA is no small thing. This is more than a cam swap.
If your cylinder pressure doesn't keep up, the power will all be in the rpm....... leaving the bottom end very soft. Then you will need a hi-stall and probably 4.xx series gears to drive it at normal rpms.
Forget putting a manual trans behind a combo like that.
And forget running it at anything but close to sealevel. The higher you go, the weaker the pressure gets. Pressure is power, especially at lower rpms.
To make your numbers; besides the right cam and pressure, you will need heads, headers, a free flowing exhaust, the usual bolt-ons and probably fresh air to the carb.

IMO
you'd be better off and bucks ahead , if you lowered your power target, or just stuffed a 360 into it. It doesn't take much for a 360 to crank out 300/325 .
But if yur stuck on 318, then, a 5.2Magnum already has a 9/1 compression ratio, better heads, and was rated 230 NET horsepower ..... which might be closer to 270 on a dyno. With a small cam, and the usual bolt-ons, she'll be crowding your target and be ready for fun.
It doesn't have to make 300 at the flywheel, I thought that would be a easy goal. If the car I find has a 318 already in it then that's good enough for me
 
It doesn't have to make 300 at the flywheel, I thought that would be a easy goal. If the car I find has a 318 already in it then that's good enough for me

He's talkin outta the hole in his back side. 300-325 for a 318 at the flywheel is peanuts. Especially if you're willing to use the Speedmasters.....you can do it with stock heads too, they'll just need some work. Like porting, larger valves and things like that.
 
300/325 for a 318LA is no small thing. This is more than a cam swap.
If your cylinder pressure doesn't keep up, the power will all be in the rpm....... leaving the bottom end very soft. Then you will need a hi-stall and probably 4.xx series gears to drive it at normal rpms.
Forget putting a manual trans behind a combo like that.
And forget running it at anything but close to sealevel. The higher you go, the weaker the pressure gets. Pressure is power, especially at lower rpms.
To make your numbers; besides the right cam and pressure, you will need heads, headers, a free flowing exhaust, the usual bolt-ons and probably fresh air to the carb.

IMO
you'd be better off and bucks ahead , if you lowered your power target, or just stuffed a 360 into it. It doesn't take much for a 360 to crank out 300/325 .
But if yur stuck on 318, then, a 5.2Magnum already has a 9/1 compression ratio, better heads, and was rated 230 NET horsepower ..... which might be closer to 270 on a dyno. With a small cam, and the usual bolt-ons, she'll be crowding your target and be ready for fun.

He asked about a 318. Go away.
 
It doesn't have to make 300 at the flywheel, I thought that would be a easy goal. If the car I find has a 318 already in it then that's good enough for me

300 Hp is definitely obtainable that mag build makes 282 hp just add some pistons for 9:1 cr and your there add speedmaster heads and be around 350 plus hp.
 
300 Hp is definitely obtainable that mag build makes 282 hp just add some pistons for 9:1 cr and your there add speedmaster heads and be around 350 plus hp.
I haven't looked up the speedmaster cylinder heads yet, what do they cost?
 
I haven't looked up the speedmaster cylinder heads yet, what do they cost?

They are 870 assembled from Summit. I don't know what the black friday deal was, but it was pretty good.
 
On a budget? just pull a 5.9 magnum out the junkyard slap some headers and a 650 cfm eddy. need a new oil pan, intake,and flywheel. timing chain cover from a LA block. Can run a electric fuel pump or buy the snout adapter to run a mechanical pump.
 
I saw a rust free Duster project.... I think it was 1991!!!!
Now days,, rust free is one someone has done all the metal work one!!!! Maybe that is what you are hinting anyway!! Good luck.
 
Budget heads either magnum or speedmaster. Pretty easy to get 300hp out of the 318 magnum. The la is going to need some work to up the compression with the speedmaster heads I think maybe 9.5:1 minimum to keep the heat in the chambers.

Years ago there was a article in mopar action believe it was called small block shoot out. A little old lady had a 65-66 barracuda that had a napa blue point reman 318 with some light pocket ported 318 heads and running the mopar 761 278* advertised .450/.455.something lift and was making around 300 hp. Running in the mid 13 second 1/4 mile. With a mild 2,000 converter. Can't remember the gears
 
The biggest problem for Speedmaster or anyone else is getting the castings. I’d be pretty surprised if they do a Black Friday sale this year. I think they got hammered pretty hard last year and this year hasn’t gotten any better. You can’t sell something you don’t have.
 
I see the 318 hater is back, hating… again… not helping, just shame and woe to those that want to build a 318.

Yup! He is a 318 hater alright!

300/325 for a 318LA is no small thing. This is more than a cam swap.
If your cylinder pressure doesn't keep up, the power will all be in the rpm....... leaving the bottom end very soft. Then you will need a hi-stall and probably 4.xx series gears to drive it at normal rpms.
Forget putting a manual trans behind a combo like that.
And forget running it at anything but close to sealevel. The higher you go, the weaker the pressure gets. Pressure is power, especially at lower rpms.
To make your numbers; besides the right cam and pressure, you will need heads, headers, a free flowing exhaust, the usual bolt-ons and probably fresh air to the carb.

IMO
you'd be better off and bucks ahead , if you lowered your power target, or just stuffed a 360 into it. It doesn't take much for a 360 to crank out 300/325 .
But if yur stuck on 318, then, a 5.2Magnum already has a 9/1 compression ratio, better heads, and was rated 230 NET horsepower ..... which might be closer to 270 on a dyno. With a small cam, and the usual bolt-ons, she'll be crowding your target and be ready for fun.
 
I saw a rust free Duster project.... I think it was 1991!!!!
Now days,, rust free is one someone has done all the metal work one!!!! Maybe that is what you are hinting anyway!! Good luck.
The reason why I don't want a project car is because I don't have the extra funds to use for body work and a paint job. Now if the car would need minor interior work then possibly I would consider it.
 
They are 870 assembled from Summit. I don't know what the black friday deal was, but it was pretty good.
I did a little research on speedmaster cylinder heads, I didn't know that they are procomp heads. I've heard that procomp heads have to be gone over before you can run them, is this true? I do have a budget that I would like to stay at, but I don't want to have to re buy parts either. My dad was a believer that cheaper is not always better. Is there any other affordable cylinder heads for a 318? Does afr make cylinder heads for it?
 
I did a little research on speedmaster cylinder heads, I didn't know that they are procomp heads. I've heard that procomp heads have to be gone over before you can run them, is this true? I do have a budget that I would like to stay at, but I don't want to have to re buy parts either. My dad was a believer that cheaper is not always better. Is there any other affordable cylinder heads for a 318? Does afr make cylinder heads for it?

ANY new head should be gone over. Even the best of them. It's par for the course and if you don't do it, you'll regret it. AFR doesn't make Mopar heads to my knowledge. The best Mopar heads available now are the Trick Flows, but even those will need to be inspected. There's no way in the world I'd spend that kind of money and not have them checked over.
 
ANY new head should be gone over. Even the best of them. It's par for the course and if you don't do it, you'll regret it. AFR doesn't make Mopar heads to my knowledge. The best Mopar heads available now are the Trick Flows, but even those will need to be inspected. There's no way in the world I'd spend that kind of money and not have them checked over.
Thanks. What I'm wanting is a car that has great throttle response, to have fun from stoplight to stoplight once in awhile. Main purpose of the car will be a semi daily driver. A cam with a noticeable idle would be good. In your opinion, would the speedmaster's or flotec heads, etc work for me in what I'm wanting to do? I'm thinking that maybe a cam with a performance range of off idle to 5,500 rpm's. Open to thoughts, suggestions.
 
ANY new head should be gone over. Even the best of them. It's par for the course and if you don't do it, you'll regret it. AFR doesn't make Mopar heads to my knowledge. The best Mopar heads available now are the Trick Flows, but even those will need to be inspected. There's no way in the world I'd spend that kind of money and not have them checked over.
For low to midrange torque and throttle response, would 2.020" intake valve's and 190cc intake ports be to big? Is Port velocity important for low end torque and throttle response? I'm not wanting to spin the 318 over 5,500 rpm's and I was thinking that a 3.23 gear ratio would be okay. Am I going in the right direction for what I'm wanting to do?
 
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