Power steering issues

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Dave Huth

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Hey Fam, I have a dilemma. I replaced my steering box in my 68 Dart. Flushed the pump before install. Now the steering is tight while centered. No assistance at all until quarter turn left or right. Then the wheel runs from me. Turns on its own. It’s like my car is possessed .
Anyone else experience this?
Thanks as always.
Dave
 
Yup, sounds like a control valve issue. Does the spool valve move freely and is it centered properly?
 
Yup, sounds like a control valve issue. Does the spool valve move freely and is it centered properly?
Not sure, it’s an after market from lares 11033. I think it might be a sticky valve. I watched the video link above in the thread. Great video btw. I called lares. Waiting to hear back.
 
Not sure, it’s an after market from lares 11033. I think it might be a sticky valve. I watched the video link above in the thread. Great video btw. I called lares. Waiting to hear back.
That would have been nice to know when you are not using factory parts.
 
I didn’t realize the difference until I had the part in hand.
The factory replacement was unavailable.
thinking he meant for the first post of the thread...any pics of the box so people can see what we're talking about?
 
Hey Guys, I received a new box from Rock Auto. Made by Lares. Swapped it out with the faulty one. The new box is better but still not right..... getting frustrated. Still has a slight fight when turning then feels like it wants to take over. Not as bad as the first but still an issue. I still have the original factory box. Any recommendations on who could rebuild it? Thanks.
 
Steer and Gear did mine. MCG Magazine lists a lot of venders for most anything rebuildable.
 
Dave see my last post on "Alignment specialist confirms". I had weird issues like yours.
I called the tech line of Firm Feel describing the issue with my steering box on the Duster. The tech said that this is a common condition and can be easily corrected. Remove the top centering valve (two bolts and the hose connections). Disassemble and clean the internal components. If there is any debris in the bore, the piston will not move freely which caused my issue. Turn right, and it wants to keep turning right, turn left and it wants to keep turning left. Lazy to no return to center (straight) when driving. I first marked the placement of the centering valve with a silver Sharpie to aid in getting the reassembly position correct. I then removed the centering valve, disassembled the valve removing the piston and shot the bore with Berryman B12 chemtool spray. The bore of my centering valve had some junk that looked like liquid rust and a few pieces of possibly rubber-like chunks. I ran a brass cleaning brush in and out of the bore. I used a piece of crocus cloth wrapped around my little finger in the bore to remove any burs or other FOD (for you aerospace folks). Reassembled the centering valve, cleaned up the mounting area on top of the power steering box. Crossed my fingers. Said a prayer to the steering gods. Fired up the 340 and YES!! Wheel stayed straight. Took the car for a test drive and we are a happy camper now.
I hope this can help someone else who is having this or similar issue with their steering box. Big thanks to the techs at Firm Feel INC.
 
Dave see my last post on "Alignment specialist confirms". I had weird issues like yours.
I called the tech line of Firm Feel describing the issue with my steering box on the Duster. The tech said that this is a common condition and can be easily corrected. Remove the top centering valve (two bolts and the hose connections). Disassemble and clean the internal components. If there is any debris in the bore, the piston will not move freely which caused my issue. Turn right, and it wants to keep turning right, turn left and it wants to keep turning left. Lazy to no return to center (straight) when driving. I first marked the placement of the centering valve with a silver Sharpie to aid in getting the reassembly position correct. I then removed the centering valve, disassembled the valve removing the piston and shot the bore with Berryman B12 chemtool spray. The bore of my centering valve had some junk that looked like liquid rust and a few pieces of possibly rubber-like chunks. I ran a brass cleaning brush in and out of the bore. I used a piece of crocus cloth wrapped around my little finger in the bore to remove any burs or other FOD (for you aerospace folks). Reassembled the centering valve, cleaned up the mounting area on top of the power steering box. Crossed my fingers. Said a prayer to the steering gods. Fired up the 340 and YES!! Wheel stayed straight. Took the car for a test drive and we are a happy camper now.
I hope this can help someone else who is having this or similar issue with their steering box. Big thanks to the techs at Firm Feel INC.
 
Thanks for that post. I really appreciate the info. The problem with my steering box is that the original got sloppy so I bought a Lares. Had the problem you described with the Lares so I had a replacement from them shipped to me ( through Rock auto). Still the same problem but not as severe. The Lares is a different design than the factory box, plus I don’t have a schematic on it like I can get for the original. Plus I’m thinking at this point, getting the original rebuilt and shipping the Lares back. Thanks to everyone for their help and support. Great crew here on fabo!
 
Dave see my last post on "Alignment specialist confirms". I had weird issues like yours.
I called the tech line of Firm Feel describing the issue with my steering box on the Duster. The tech said that this is a common condition and can be easily corrected. Remove the top centering valve (two bolts and the hose connections). Disassemble and clean the internal components. If there is any debris in the bore, the piston will not move freely which caused my issue. Turn right, and it wants to keep turning right, turn left and it wants to keep turning left. Lazy to no return to center (straight) when driving. I first marked the placement of the centering valve with a silver Sharpie to aid in getting the reassembly position correct. I then removed the centering valve, disassembled the valve removing the piston and shot the bore with Berryman B12 chemtool spray. The bore of my centering valve had some junk that looked like liquid rust and a few pieces of possibly rubber-like chunks. I ran a brass cleaning brush in and out of the bore. I used a piece of crocus cloth wrapped around my little finger in the bore to remove any burs or other FOD (for you aerospace folks). Reassembled the centering valve, cleaned up the mounting area on top of the power steering box. Crossed my fingers. Said a prayer to the steering gods. Fired up the 340 and YES!! Wheel stayed straight. Took the car for a test drive and we are a happy camper now.
I hope this can help someone else who is having this or similar issue with their steering box. Big thanks to the techs at Firm Feel INC.
I have a similar, I think, issue with my PS. It tracks straight but does not center after a turn. When driving through a long sweeper it feels like the box 'locks' into the turn and I have to steer it through. The only thing I have done is to tighten the box to take out the slop.Is it possible I have over tightened it, or is it indicative of debris as described above?
 
I have a similar, I think, issue with my PS. It tracks straight but does not center after a turn. When driving through a long sweeper it feels like the box 'locks' into the turn and I have to steer it through. The only thing I have done is to tighten the box to take out the slop.Is it possible I have over tightened it, or is it indicative of debris as described above?
As usual, operator error! :rolleyes:
I did have the box too tight! Found this video which explains the proper adjustment beginning at 4 minutes. Following this method my steering is normal again, tracks smoothly through the sweepers at 60 without needing correction!
 
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