Rotors

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johnnycuda

JohnnyCuda's 68
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I was wondering if someone can tell me when you are doing rotors does it come with the hub and the studs or do you have to switch the hub and get new studs?

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You have to re-use the hubs and replace the studs. They should be "pressed" in, not hammered or pulled through with an impact gun.
Install new race when you replace the bearings.
 
You have to re-use the hubs and replace the studs. They should be "pressed" in, not hammered or pulled through with an impact gun.
Install new race when you replace the bearings.
Yeah I’ll probably be hammering them in or using the impact.
Don’t have a press.
I did though get new bearings and races

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Heres the rotors.
***take it to someone knowledgable with a press***. Good luck finding new hubs if ya booger them.***

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Really ?? So why buy quality parts if you are just going to damage them when they are installed. If there is not a good machine shop to do the press work, buy a $150. press from Harbor Freight and then resell it when you are done.
 
You know what, you might get lucky. There were 3 different disc brake systems used in 68. Bendix, Budd, and Kelsey-Hayes. Flip the assembly over and check to see if your rotors are just bolted from the rear. If so the studs will be ok. Show us a picture.
The actual procedures are in your Factory Service Manual in the Brake section.
If you don't have one, free downloads are available.
 
Be careful. Some rotors have the studs "swedged" and that means sort of like rivets. The threaded ends are flared out. Pressing or driving the studs out CAN WRECK the rotor or hub. You need to cut off the swedge--and there are tools made for this--before removing them
 
Be careful. Some rotors have the studs "swedged" and that means sort of like rivets. The threaded ends are flared out. Pressing or driving the studs out CAN WRECK the rotor or hub. You need to cut off the swedge--and there are tools made for this--before removing them

Any idea who has those cutters for a 7/16 stud?
 
No I'd have to do a search like anybody Rusty found "a thing" a few years ago someone used a drill press and a 5/8 hole saw with the pilot drill removed
 
You know what, you might get lucky. There were 3 different disc brake systems used in 68. Bendix, Budd, and Kelsey-Hayes. Flip the assembly over and check to see if your rotors are just bolted from the rear. If so the studs will be ok. Show us a picture.
The actual procedures are in your Factory Service Manual in the Brake section.
If you don't have one, free downloads are available.
Well, going by the pic in his first post, they're KH... Bendix and Budd were B and C body, and I'm assuming he's got an A body- but you know what they say about assuming.
A body had KH (sbp) up to '72, and unicast (lbp) rotors thereafter.
 
Yeah that's the problem I've run into......every hole saw I find has the drill bit type arbor.
 
I was wondering if someone can tell me when you are doing rotors does it come with the hub and the studs or do you have to switch the hub and get new studs?

Years ago, back in the day, when you bought a rotor, it was sold with a hub.
That's the way it was done back in the 60's, 70's, in the "old" days.
Then for whatever reasons, probably for such a small market, rotors became obsolete from the manufacturer's.
Once the old supply was used up, you couldn't find them anywhere.
Then A few years ago, one or two manufacturer's started making them again.
But they are Rotor only, no hub.
That's why you can't find HUBS in this modern day and age.
Back then, they were just thrown out still attached to the junk rotor, knowing you could still purchase new rotors that came with hubs.
There was no reason to save hubs, in the old days.
But be thankful that at least rotors are now available to rebuild these Kelsey Hayes brake systems.
 
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I have had my A-body KH Disc car since 1984.

Replaced the Rotors and more right after purchase!

I have never seen these come with hubs in my lifetime other than aftermarket RM BS!
 
I already popped them out for the New rotor.
Why do they need to be pressed
I have done many studs on cars using an impact for as long as I can remember.

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You wanted to know the right way,,, people have done many things for years the wrong way too.. Read the service manual or just do it the way you want, its your money..
But don't complain if it goes to heck with vibrations etc..
But as you said, you have been doing them for years, so why ask now??
 
I have had my A-body KH Disc car since 1984.

Replaced the Rotors and more right after purchase!

I have never seen these come with hubs in my lifetime other than aftermarket RM BS!
That was the only way the Mopar dealer sold them.....hub and rotor assembly.
 
I already popped them out for the New rotor.
Why do they need to be pressed
I have done many studs on cars using an impact for as long as I can remember.

View attachment 1715789363
Sometimes the studs are staked, sometimes they're not.....or at least barely staked where they will pop out easily. You get a fully staked stud, or one rusted in tight, and you can bend the flange on the hub. I found most of the real nasty ones were on drums. The disc ones not so much for whatever reason. Probably because the rotor thickness was a lot greater than the drum thickness and had less chance of warping with heat.
 
You wanted to know the right way,,, people have done many things for years the wrong way too.. Read the service manual or just do it the way you want, its your money..
But don't complain if it goes to heck with vibrations etc..
But as you said, you have been doing them for years, so why ask now??
No I have done a lot of other kinds but I’ve never done mopar hubs.
My orig question was did I have to, because I thought they came with the hubs.
Thanks I do appreciate all the input!!!
Thanks guys
 
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So I had to go buy five more studs and the guy at the auto parts store recommended a local one-man machine shop he said he will be able to do it for me
 
For all of you reading this and want Quality *** N.O.S. ***
Asbestos *** Brake Pads... I have some, not many.... For the nicest, softest, smoooooothest braking system known to mankind.... nice smoooooth braking, doesn't rip up Rotors to smithereens.... so you don't have to go through this process, repeatedly....

I also have some, not many, Front LEFTY!!!! Wheel Studs, for those who want them....

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if you want or desire.....
 
For all of you reading this and want Quality *** N.O.S. ***
Asbestos *** Brake Pads... I have some, not many.... For the nicest, softest, smoooooothest braking system known to mankind.... nice smoooooth braking, doesn't rip up Rotors to smithereens.... so you don't have to go through this process, repeatedly....

I also have some, not many, Front LEFTY!!!! Wheel Studs, for those who want them....

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if you want or desire.....
My 1970 Swinger 340 still has the original Kelsey-Hayes discs and the original left hand thread studs on the driver's side. I recently purchased a set of rotors from R Eherenburger's Ebay site. I the interest of keeping my car original, I'm interested. Please PM me.
 
I assume you mean stock. Anything and everything you replace on a car makes it less original.
 
Yes,stock. I have the original build sheet, so I'm somewhat limited. I'm making modern performance upgrades, but nothing I couldn't return to bone stock, and run it across the block at stupid money at Barret or Mecum. My car, my choice. Until then, I'm modifying it to my tastes. All the stock parts are securely stored. To each his own.
 
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