Turbo....

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plus your heating that 3" tube on that long haul and then the heat has no where to go except back into the charge until it can lower itself to ambient tempa again. Hows the lag on that remote boost? I suppose a truck is not really an issue but in a car that may be something to think about.
 
plus your heating that 3" tube on that long haul and then the heat has no where to go except back into the charge until it can lower itself to ambient tempa again. Hows the lag on that remote boost? I suppose a truck is not really an issue but in a car that may be something to think about.
I don’t really have a comparison for the answer to your lag question. Everyone asks me that same thing but I e never had this engine with this turbo set up any other way. I can tell you this, when I step on it and it downshifts from 5th to 3rd it’s in boost faster than I can look at the gauge.
 
If I can figure out how to make it look good, I might do it. I just got the block back from havin .055" whacked off the deck. I said whacked off. So now, it's a zero deck height engine. So I'll need to use the thickest head gasket I have which will be somewhere around .045" compressed thickness. That will give it about a true 9:1. It's still gonna need a pretty big cam though. Something to ponder. It's gonna have to be where I can make it a neat freak, or it's not gonna happen.
 
Can you explain that a little please.
no I can't, on account of I have no experience.
But IMO, I don't think your being fair;
the question I would put forth is this;
Suppose your system was under the hood in the usual place, and NOT running an intercooler. What might be the charge temp?
Now run the plumbing for the intercooler but substitute a 15foot X3inch aluminum tube (or however long your current piping is), in it's place; what might be the new charge temp?
And finally, install the intercooler and generate the final temp.
In your story, you left out the first part, for obvious reasons, I can see that. But what if.

As to turbocharging, I can only parrot what smarter men than me have to say.

As for myself; If I owned an Early-A and got the urge to turbo it, I would try to run a water/meth injection system before I would run an intercooler hung off the front.
But before that, I would for sure at least try a remote, and possibly a 2-stage; that's my dream BTW,lol. Not for mega-power, cuz there is no way to harness that on the street anyway, in a stock-body Early-A, lol. But for two things; 1) the cool factor, and 2) tire shredding torque just off idle.
In my dream, I would run a small turbo under the hood just to get the ball rolling, and feed the exhaust from it, along with an exhaust bypass, out to a bigger turbo out back.
My intercooler(s) would be disguised as LakerPipe(s) sending the charge-air back to the front. Hey, it's my dream,lol.
 
no I can't, on account of I have no experience.
But IMO, I don't think your being fair;
the question I would put forth is this;
Suppose your system was under the hood in the usual place, and NOT running an intercooler. What might be the charge temp?
Now run the plumbing for the intercooler but substitute a 15foot X3inch aluminum tube (or however long your current piping is), in it's place; what might be the new charge temp?
And finally, install the intercooler and generate the final temp.
In your story, you left out the first part, for obvious reasons, I can see that. But what if.

As to turbocharging, I can only parrot what smarter men than me have to say.

As for myself; If I owned an Early-A and got the urge to turbo it, I would try to run a water/meth injection system before I would run an intercooler hung off the front.
But before that, I would for sure at least try a remote, and possibly a 2-stage; that's my dream BTW,lol. Not for mega-power, cuz there is no way to harness that on the street anyway, in a stock-body Early-A, lol. But for two things; 1) the cool factor, and 2) tire shredding torque just off idle.
In my dream, I would run a small turbo under the hood just to get the ball rolling, and feed the exhaust from it, along with an exhaust bypass, out to a bigger turbo out back.
My intercooler(s) would be disguised as LakerPipe(s) sending the charge-air back to the front. Hey, it's my dream,lol.
Relying on water-meth injection sucks, I know, cause if it ever runs low or F's up(& at some point it will) it can ruin a lot of hard work and expensive/irreplaceable parts. Luckily when the piston ring lands collapsed on the turbo'd 340 My Bud was running in the AAR at the time, it didn't destroy the T/A head or block. The injection We were running stopped working around the 1/8mi mark, & that's all she wrote....
 
Yeah, IF I ever do a turbo build, it'll have an intercooler. "Somewhere"
 
dosent have to be an air to air charge cooler!! all the turbo'ed diesels in big trucks were water buffalo's for decades!!! water to air charge cooled! it would give ya more options but most likely more tubing.... id run a pyrometer on it before turbo,...aluminum melts at ruffly 1200 degrees!!
 
Do you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump? from what I understand, you can't run much over 6 or 7psi- then you probably are in range. I don't know much as you guys about the sixes, but have done plenty v8s.
 
Do you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump? from what I understand, you can't run much over 6 or 7psi- then you probably are in range. I don't know much as you guys about the sixes, but have done plenty v8s.
I don't know yet. I am still in the pondering stage. It will probably just end up being another N/A build.
 
no I can't, on account of I have no experience.
But IMO, I don't think your being fair;
the question I would put forth is this;
Suppose your system was under the hood in the usual place, and NOT running an intercooler. What might be the charge temp?
Now run the plumbing for the intercooler but substitute a 15foot X3inch aluminum tube (or however long your current piping is), in it's place; what might be the new charge temp?
And finally, install the intercooler and generate the final temp.
In your story, you left out the first part, for obvious reasons, I can see that. But what if.

As to turbocharging, I can only parrot what smarter men than me have to say.

As for myself; If I owned an Early-A and got the urge to turbo it, I would try to run a water/meth injection system before I would run an intercooler hung off the front.
But before that, I would for sure at least try a remote, and possibly a 2-stage; that's my dream BTW,lol. Not for mega-power, cuz there is no way to harness that on the street anyway, in a stock-body Early-A, lol. But for two things; 1) the cool factor, and 2) tire shredding torque just off idle.
In my dream, I would run a small turbo under the hood just to get the ball rolling, and feed the exhaust from it, along with an exhaust bypass, out to a bigger turbo out back.
My intercooler(s) would be disguised as LakerPipe(s) sending the charge-air back to the front. Hey, it's my dream,lol.
Sounds like i ruffled your feathers a little. I certainly didn’t mean to. My question was meant to ask you what a 2 stage system is. It sounds like you mean a compound system. If so those are used mainly to generate very high pressure ratios and lots and lots of “map width”. The diesel puller guys love em. And they are making sometimes 200 or more psi with compound triples, (2 small twins feeding a monster). There are not a lot of successful gas engines running compound setups. The boost gets out of hand very quickly. So I’ll ask again is that what you meant by 2 stage? And to the first part of your reply, I gave you a direct first hand experience of running a remote mount turbo on my personal vehicle with ~14 feet of tube and no intercooler and then with an intercooler and gave you the temps from my data logs. It’s about as fair (and accurate) as anyone can be I don’t get it.
 
rear mounted turbo with a 100 shot of nitrous. Use the nitrous above 3K rpm of course but it would get it up and running so you would have no lag.
 
To throw another angle, view youtubes of the new after-market motorized superchargers. Some of the more expensive ones ($500+) actually add appreciable power, while cheapies sometimes add more restriction. Much easier install, allowing more flexible plumbing than a turbocharger. No question they "could work" if you've viewed past youtubes of people who rigged a gas leaf-blower into their intake. I have no personal experience.
 
I'm contemplating a remote turbo build also, with a slant six, some very good info here on some of the things i was wondering about. I was only going to run around 8 psi, nothing too wild with 600 mechanical secondary blow thru, 9:1, forged piston and lighter rods just for insurance. powering a 2500lb dodge truck. sounds like an intercooler is the way to go. was looking at the STS system from holley, comes with is own oiler kit. kinda pricey, but a remote is my only option because of limited space under the hood, and don't wanna have that all cluttered up either.
 
I'm contemplating a remote turbo build also, with a slant six, some very good info here on some of the things i was wondering about. I was only going to run around 8 psi, nothing too wild with 600 mechanical secondary blow thru, 9:1, forged piston and lighter rods just for insurance. powering a 2500lb dodge truck. sounds like an intercooler is the way to go. was looking at the STS system from holley, comes with is own oiler kit. kinda pricey, but a remote is my only option because of limited space under the hood, and don't wanna have that all cluttered up either.

Be very cautious about the oil pump STS sells with their kit. The brushes die in them about every 2000 miles. I went through 2 of em before I got an exapump from turbowerks. Very expensive but you’ll never worry about it ever again. Mine has over 400,000 miles on it.

Exa-Pump is #1 Worldwide
 
rear mounted turbo with a 100 shot of nitrous. Use the nitrous above 3K rpm of course but it would get it up and running so you would have no lag.
With a slant 6 having a narrow powerband, 1500-5500 or so, if you’re not at full boost pressure or damn close to it at 3000 rpm you have the wrong size turbo. And usually a small hit of nitrous is used initially to spool a turbo sized larger than optimal. So if you’re racing it, I suggest using the nitrous at the hit and killing it before peak torque. Let the boost take over from there.
 
I have a free td40 subaru turbo with less than a 1000 miles on it, in brand new condition and a few goodies including an intercooler to go with it, thinking I will be working with this instead of the sts system. spooled up on a 4 cylinder at around 3200, might be the answer, probably using the exa pump, and making an oiling system, thanks for the advice TT5.9mag.
 
One thing that might be in your slanty's favor, is the actual Force on the top of that 3.4xx" piston when the ignition fires. Whatever psi is there, the actual force would only be 85% of what it would be on a 4incher.

Assuming identical pressure, the resulting force from a 3.4 bore is 72% of a 4.0 bore.
pi x radius squared
 
With a slant 6 having a narrow powerband, 1500-5500 or so, if you’re not at full boost pressure or damn close to it at 3000 rpm you have the wrong size turbo. And usually a small hit of nitrous is used initially to spool a turbo sized larger than optimal. So if you’re racing it, I suggest using the nitrous at the hit and killing it before peak torque. Let the boost take over from there.
I've done a TON and I mean a TON of reading on turbos. From what I've gathered, for best street acceleration, it's actually best to choose a turbo that's just a tic smaller than you need. Similar to how some of the diesel boys do it. The smaller turbo spins up quicker. But too small and the power benefits fall off drastically.
 
I've done a TON and I mean a TON of reading on turbos. From what I've gathered, for best street acceleration, it's actually best to choose a turbo that's just a tic smaller than you need. Similar to how some of the diesel boys do it. The smaller turbo spins up quicker. But too small and the power benefits fall off drastically.
There is a very fine line actually. Too large and it won’t spool soon enough and it will lag. Too small and backpressure will will be too high and the thing won’t make any power. The correct way to do it is to read and understand a compressor map and size the turbo for a specific engine. At maximum airflow requirement the compressor should be in the 70-90% efficiency zone on the map. Which will keep the turbo out of surge and keep backpressure at reasonable levels.
 
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