Looking to buy/build 500-600 fwhp 360

-
Probably only need a 100hp shot to what you already got. Why not see what the best time you can get out of the combo you already have before trying to drastically $$$$ improve it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Now Lurch, I don't know how to ask this without comin off as a smartass....and I promise, I'm not....BUT......and bear with me......

Do you know WHAT 500-600 HP even feels like, or are these numbers you're just reaching outta the sky for? A lot of people have never driven or been in a car with that much power. All too often we get newbies or kids (not saying you're either....I don't really know) and they just spit out numbers they've read about in magazines or on forums. 500-600 HP will get you deep into the tens and possibly faster in a light A body.

I am asking simply because If you don't want something "that fast or quick" it's gonna save you a lot of cash. Help us out here.
Click to expand...
I own a 69 Corvette, dyno 690 fwhp, TK0 5 speed, 3.90 rear gears. All Tom’s stuff in the diff.

05CF931B-DD93-414D-BC55-6EB8B2F0A7EC.jpeg


5996E1BF-5A51-46DB-A10E-33CDB6EE4FDA.jpeg


005E0522-3E49-4230-A58B-81549305F5D3.jpeg


3EDA0418-F0CD-487A-AAEE-224EF1806E7B.jpeg


6F85CE39-95C3-4628-9EE5-8563429D3F6E.jpeg


940E1241-FEB2-4CC5-8660-4B6CF34626F4.jpeg
 
Lurch59 said:
Ported and polished AFR's. It is a 496 with a roller cam. 2 1/8 primary header tubes.
Click to expand...
I bet that gets the job done! You can assemble a big block Chevy in the back yard in the SAND and they're GONNA make some power. LOL
 
j par said:
The transmission is fine.. I don't know what he's talking about... Now the 8 3/4...
With a 4 speed and sticky tires... That could be a problem... Ask me how I know...
Also the 200 nitrous shot ain't just throw a bottle in the trunk... $1500-2k done correctly.. ask me how I know...
Advice: build a separate engine or buy the blue print... You should be deep into the 11's with all motor.. ask me how I know.. a couple 2-3k in rear suspension and shocks, a clutch tamer and you should be seeing tens all motor ..
And don't forget your roll bar under 11.5...
Click to expand...

3AD9E69F-3AA4-4958-A827-180221B948D8.jpeg
 
I bought a Blueprint stroker 9-10 years ago. Very happy. Still running the block,rods,crank from it. At least back then they won’t build you one with a forged crank. Pretty sure that has not changed. At that HP level and transmission you want a forged crank. I run high 11’s with solid flat tappet, fully ported x’s and stock 68 castings for intake and exhaust manifolds. Port matched and blended and the intake divided cut down. at 410 CI’s. With headers,good intake and a holley and a converter to match, get’s me to roll bar et’s. No nitrous needed. 600 hp is not that friendly to stock 360 blocks.
 
Google 360 Mopar deadly weapon and it should pick up a very nice 360 build that's been talked about recently by one of the members here. In the horsepower range that you're speaking about.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I think a 400hp 360 in an Early-A is already an 11-second combo.
Yur down in or very near to, the 7pounds per hp class.
Click to expand...
Well, it has dynamat on the floor, subframe connectors, a roll bar, scatter shield. I really don't know what it will weigh. And, I'm not really into tearing through the gears. I'm not going to be shifting as fast a some of you guys. I appreciate the feedback!
 
273 said:
Probably only need a 100hp shot to what you already got. Why not see what the best time you can get out of the combo you already have before trying to drastically $$$$ improve it.
Click to expand...

How much horsepower do you think I have? 360 with high-performance cam, improved springs on the valvetrain, and headers? I'm guessing 350 hp?
 
I was at a car show this summer and Im talking to a guy with a 70 Olds with a 454 Chevy( yes I know) hes telling me it has "800 horsepower" and it might have actually had it ,it looked tubbed and roll caged but street legal...i walked away and thought to myself "hes as old as my dad (about 75) what the hell does he need 800 horse on the street for?" LOL! these old guys just buy these cars turn key ready...they aren't wrenching or building anymore, I figured might have been what he wanted when he got back from Nam...
 
Last edited:
Lurch59 said:
Do you think so? The trans is brand new, like 10 miles on it! I thought at 600 hp this combo might live?
Click to expand...
Depends on what you have done to the trans, but as long as you keep it on street tires and on the street (where you have no traction) you will probably be fine. The 8 3/4 will also probably be fine on street tires, on the street. The problem is when you put on sticky tires (drag radials) and go to a prepped race track....I have seen too many street cars try to go racing and blowup rears/transmissions lately....Don't really want to see more.

If you want to tread that street car/race car line, my suggestion would be to put a dana or 9" under the rear before you hit it hard at the race track. I'm not sure what I would do with the trans... I personally run a manual valvebody 727 with a 8" converter in my Barracuda, and it handles street driving and racing quite well. With a stroked 360 (408), my car makes close to the power you want, only it runs low 10's, not 11's.
 
Lurch59 said:
How much horsepower do you think I have? 360 with high-performance cam, improved springs on the valvetrain, and headers? I'm guessing 350 hp?
Click to expand...

Probably, add a 100 hp shot and see what she does, probably enough to get to 11’s if not then go from there to reach your goals.
 
Not sure how much experience the OP has at the track, but when trying to make parts last with a stick at the track, a roll control helped to stage and take up the slack in the drive train before launch. that little bit of slack dropping the clutch at 35-4K RPM is enough, in my limited experience, to break a very strong 'street differential'.
 
clementine said:
Not sure how much experience the OP has at the track, but when trying to make parts last with a stick at the track, a roll control helped to stage and take up the slack in the drive train before launch. that little bit of slack dropping the clutch at 35-4K RPM is enough, in my limited experience, to break a very strong 'street differential'.
Click to expand...

Not much experience at the track. But, with the nitrous, 400 hp at lauch and hit the spray when everything is loaded may help with the shock loading. If I have problems, I will just go with a Ford 9" I suppose.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I was at a car show this summer and Im talking to a guy with a 70 Olds with a 454 Chevy( yes I know) hes telling me it has "800 horsepower" and it might have actually had it ,it looked tubbed and roll caged but street legal...i walked away and thought to myself "hes as old as my dad (about 75) what the hell does he need 800 horse on the street for?" LOL! these old guys just buy these cars turn key ready...they aren't wrenching or building anymore, I figured might have been what he wanted when he got back from Nam...
Click to expand...
I won't give you the big red "x", but I will differ with you on that. What the hell does being 75 have to do with needing 800 horse on the street?? Does a 25 year old need 800 horse on the street? I'd MUCH rather see big HP in the hands of someone experienced enough to use it wisely- it ain't seniors plowing their Muskrats through crowds and picking off telephone poles. And chances are the 25 yr old is the one who ponied up the money and bought it, and the geezer (yeah, I'm getting there too) is the one who built it out of decades of experience. Hell, Garlits is still tearin' it up...
:soapbox:
 
flyfish said:
Depends on what you have done to the trans, but as long as you keep it on street tires and on the street (where you have no traction) you will probably be fine. The 8 3/4 will also probably be fine on street tires, on the street. The problem is when you put on sticky tires (drag radials) and go to a prepped race track....I have seen too many street cars try to go racing and blowup rears/transmissions lately....Don't really want to see more.

If you want to tread that street car/race car line, my suggestion would be to put a dana or 9" under the rear before you hit it hard at the race track. I'm not sure what I would do with the trans... I personally run a manual valvebody 727 with a 8" converter in my Barracuda, and it handles street driving and racing quite well. With a stroked 360 (408), my car makes close to the power you want, only it runs low 10's, not 11's.
Click to expand...

Octane (8 carbon alkane) plus nitrous? And 85 percent ethanol? There must be a story there...

I've got the money to do what I want, within reason. That being said, I'm not inclined to beat the car either. I wouldn't be opposed to strengthening the 8 3/4. I'll have to see what horsepower levels I end up with. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Lurch59 said:
Octane (8 carbon alkane) plus nitrous? And 85 percent ethanol? There must be a story there...

.......................
Click to expand...
LOL, most folk don't even notice! Kudos! I'm an analytical chemist, and this was just something I put in as a "title" many years ago when I ran a 360 (pump gas) with a 150 shot....it put a smile on my face every time I hit the button. I have never run nitrous on the current engine because I'm getting a little close to the limit of the block as is (making around 600hp).
 
furrystump said:
I bought a Blueprint stroker 9-10 years ago. Very happy. Still running the block,rods,crank from it. At least back then they won’t build you one with a forged crank. Pretty sure that has not changed. At that HP level and transmission you want a forged crank. I run high 11’s with solid flat tappet, fully ported x’s and stock 68 castings for intake and exhaust manifolds. Port matched and blended and the intake divided cut down. at 410 CI’s. With headers,good intake and a holley and a converter to match, get’s me to roll bar et’s. No nitrous needed. 600 hp is not that friendly to stock 360 blocks.
Click to expand...
Furry not to get off topic (sorry).
Who did the port work on your on your iron x heads?
PM me if you like.
Thanks
 
Yes. Because of the class I run and the I was moving the car to be in compliance with the rules. I made a couple of changes that should have slowed me down. I went from an eddy rpm airgap to the stock 68 340 intake massaged with the divider cutdown and OOTB eddy aluminum heads to the ported X’s. I picked up 3-4 10ths. The heads were ported by Dwayne Porter of Porter racing heads in Burlington VT. Those are average of three cylinders IIRC. 280ish was highest. Very pleasant to deall with and answered all my lame questions.

115952B7-3CDA-4966-ABD0-254BB45831A2.jpeg
 
furrystump said:
Yes. Because of the class I run and the I was moving the car to be in compliance with the rules. I made a couple of changes that should have slowed me down. I went from an eddy rpm airgap to the stock 68 340 intake massaged with the divider cutdown and OOTB eddy aluminum heads to the ported X’s. I picked up 3-4 10ths. The heads were ported by Dwayne Porter of Porter racing heads in Burlington VT. Those are average of three cylinders IIRC. 280ish was highest. Very pleasant to deall with and answered all my lame questions.

View attachment 1715793416
Click to expand...
I believe Dwayne is a FABO forum member.
Hard to find anyone to port iron heads anymore.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top