That looks like a Magnum intake. The China walls are the thin walls on the ends of the block. The machined walls that the distributor goes into on the rear and the narrow one on the front
Intake manifold gasket installation help
- Thread starter Bob Jasinski
- Start date
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Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Remember that 64-65, 273 heads and intake manifold have a different mating surface angle than later models, so that is important to keep in mind. You are using stock heads and intake, so there is not a problem. Just saying.
Right you are. Without backreading every post, I don't believe the OP ever mentioned which intake he was using. Did I miss it?
cudamark
Well-Known Member
It's not the mating surface that's different than the later small blocks, it the diameter and angle of the bolts.
The engine block and intake manifold are stock, I'm aware of the changes in the '66 manifold, mine is a '65. The 273 is the original engine, intake, carb, correct date codes, 2 under the C, this is a real Formula S car. it will be painted the original Gold Poly with black stripe. My goal (build) is a "day two" car that is stock with a few owner mods like 15" Rallyes. Here's pic of the intake.
![DSC_4676[1].JPG](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/dsc_4676-1-jpg.1715793065/ "DSC_4676[1].JPG")
![DSC_4675[1].JPG](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/dsc_4675-1-jpg.1715793066/ "DSC_4675[1].JPG")
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Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Bob,
Here's another thing to consider: whether or not you want to block off the heat riser port going across the center of the intake manifold. If your carburetor uses an electric or manual choke and you don't live in a cold climate, you might not need that heat going to the intake manifold. There are thicker, composite and metal intake manifold gaskets that do not have openings for that heat riser port. If you used that thicker gasket, you would probably need to use the cork end rail gaskets to make the manifold fit right. Also, you might want to take off that bottom pan so that it would not insulate the intake manifold from the crankcase heat. Just something to consider.
Here's another thing to consider: whether or not you want to block off the heat riser port going across the center of the intake manifold. If your carburetor uses an electric or manual choke and you don't live in a cold climate, you might not need that heat going to the intake manifold. There are thicker, composite and metal intake manifold gaskets that do not have openings for that heat riser port. If you used that thicker gasket, you would probably need to use the cork end rail gaskets to make the manifold fit right. Also, you might want to take off that bottom pan so that it would not insulate the intake manifold from the crankcase heat. Just something to consider.
Richard, I want to retain the stock choke, and have spent a significant amount of time cleaning the exhaust port so the choke functions as designed. As far as the plate goes, its there to prevent oil from coking up on the underside of the exhaust heat chamber. This is a stock build and the plate stays, but I do appreciate the suggestions.
I agree on both counts. Especially if the heat plate is fairly clean with no deposits behind it that you can tell. For stock and very mild builds, it really doesn't pay dividends to block the exhaust cross over.
Coolvibes
Well-Known Member
He's correct. Just pulled my intake manifold off yesterday (1965 - 273), and was surprised to find so much oil on the bolts. The valleys on the manifold were wet and oil stained when I bought the car. Now I know why.
lemondana
BlackDart
The correct intake gasket set is Fel Pro MS9935. Rock Auto has them for $6.40 right now. They are not always available. These are not the same number as the later 273-318 gaskets. So anyone looking for these early gaskets, HURRY and order them now.
I have a set on order from Rock Auto, the shipping is more than the gasket set.
The MS9935 gasket set just showed up. They are definitely different than what is shown in post #1. Very glad I reached out to the list for input on this intake installation, I didn't have a good feeling about the first set. These fit very nice, and they self locate by resting on the tabs that stick out from the head gaskets. The cork gaskets are identical to the 340/360 set I have. Notice that the U shaped head opening above the exhaust gas port is not covered by the gasket. Evidently it just remains open, doesn't seem to lead to anything, so I guess it doesn't need to be sealed. The top photo is the intake gasket from FS 8553 PT-10, above the MS9935 intake gasket from the set I just received.
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Coolvibes
Well-Known Member
Would the OP's first gasket in post #1 (FS 8553 PT-10) be for an early 273 with a 2 barrel carb intake?
I have a 1965 273 with 2 barrel intake, which has the exhaust crossovers. The OP 4 brl intake manifold does not appear to have the exhaust crossover, although the heads have them. It looks as if I attempted to use the MS9935 on my 2 brl manifold, there would be a gap between the manifold and the head in the area of the exhaust crossover.
I am guessing that the 2 barrel carb needs the exhaust crossover to help with the thermal choke, while the 4 barrel carbs have electric choke?
I don't think the FS 8553 PT-10 is for early 273 engines. I did a product search on Rock Auto, and this is what I came up with:
CHRYSLER CORDOBA 1978
CHRYSLER LEBARON 1978
CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 1978
DODGE ASPEN 1978
DODGE B100 1979-1980
DODGE B150 1981
DODGE B200 1979-1980
DODGE B250 1981
DODGE B300 1979-1980
DODGE B350 1981
DODGE CB300 1979-1980
DODGE CHALLENGER 1970-1973
DODGE CHARGER 1970-1978
DODGE CORONET 1970-1973
DODGE D100 PICKUP 1979
DODGE D150 PICKUP 1979-1981
DODGE D200 PICKUP 1979-1980
DODGE D250 PICKUP 1981
DODGE D300 PICKUP 1980
DODGE D350 PICKUP 1981
DODGE DART 1968-1973
DODGE DIPLOMAT 1978
DODGE MAGNUM 1978
DODGE MONACO 1978
DODGE POLARA 1972-1973
DODGE RAMCHARGER 1979-1981
DODGE RD200 1979-1980
DODGE W150 PICKUP 1979-1981
DODGE W200 PICKUP 1979-1980
DODGE W250 PICKUP 1981
PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA 1968-1973
PLYMOUTH BELVEDERE 1971
PLYMOUTH CARAVELLE 1978
PLYMOUTH CUDA 1970-1973
PLYMOUTH DUSTER 1970-1973
PLYMOUTH FURY 1978
PLYMOUTH PB100 1979
PLYMOUTH PB150 1981
PLYMOUTH PB200 1979-1980
PLYMOUTH PB250 1981
PLYMOUTH PB350 1981
PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER 1968-1973
PLYMOUTH SATELLITE 1968-1973
PLYMOUTH TRAILDUSTER 1979-1981
PLYMOUTH VALIANT 1968-1973
PLYMOUTH VOLARE 1978
So, the earliest shown is 1968 Dart, Valiant, Roadrunner and Satellite.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I've always RTVd around the water ports, only because I dont like antifreeze leaking into the lifter valley, the anti freeze in oil will wipe out the bearings quick. Its something ive done for years as insurance.
So, getting ready to fit the manifold and just have one more question. The tabs that fit into the cork gaskets in the corners (pictured), that are part of the head gasket; do these tabs get bent down to hold the gasket before the manifold is set down, or does the manifold itself push them into place as its bolted down? I know RTV needs to be in these corners, and the water ports, but am wondering if the tabs need to be pressed down as well.
![DSC_4708[1].JPG](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/dsc_4708-1-jpg.1715797248/ "DSC_4708[1].JPG")
![DSC_4709[1].JPG](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/dsc_4709-1-jpg.1715797251/ "DSC_4709[1].JPG")
Yes u bend them down. U can also delete the end gaskets and run a bead of silicone. Do not put sealer on that gasket. It already has the sealer on it. Kim
I wouldn't use the cork end gaskets.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Personally, I use the cork end gaskets for stock applications. I bend down the tabs slightly to hold them in place. I run a bead of RTV on the seams between the side gaskets and the end gaskets, and also a little on the tabs and slots in the cork. If the head and intake surfaces are clean and not pitted, I don't use anything around the water or intake ports with those Teflon gaskets. I do use Copper Coat on both sides of the cork gaskets though.
OK, so if only RTV, no cork, tabs stay and are flattened down, then a bead of RTV. Before I decide between cork and RTV, I'm going to dry fit the manifold, and check clearances.
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. Great
Coolvibes
Well-Known Member
I think you are correct here, and I was wrong. The Fel-Pro MS9935 looks correct for the early 273. Thanks for the clarification.
My son had a 360 built into a 408 last year, and against my suggestion, had the machine shop assemble it for him. Used RTV at Chinawalls instead of cork, and RTV around the back water ports in head (dead end at manifold, since T stat is at front) and it ran like ****. Couldnt adjust carb to save our life.... Got the Gumout spray out, bad vacuum leak by cyls 5-7 and 6-8. especially 6-8. I had him pull the intake and reseal it (engine has less than 2k miles on fresh build) and made sure he did it the right way (used cork end seals and no RTV around water ports) and that made a WORLD of difference. the only RTV was used where the cork gaskets meet the side gaskets at the head/block/manifold junction. Sealed right up, runs noticeably better. Mopars arent Chevys, RTV was a GM "cure all" from teh early 80s.... just because "it works on a Chevy" don't mean it works on a Mopar. I believe in minimal RTV. If I need a gasket holder or sealer, depending on where we are talking, I still use "Aviation" Permatex/"indian Head", or sometimes the yellow "gorilla snot" weatherstrip adhesive. Definitely makes it tough to get apart if there is a "next time" but doing things this way gives me alot less "next times" and I hate "redo's".
Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Bob, How did the manifold test fitting go? Is the manifold on now?
What's next?
What's next?
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I didn't use the plastic holders on mine i just put a thin layer of rtv on the gasket and set it in place then did the same on the other side then set my intake on. So far no leaks. With the valley part I used the gaskets and used a pretty thick layer of rtv on both sides. I know alot of people just do a single bead of rtv with no gasket but mine had a pretty large gap im assuming its probably where I milled my heads and didn't mill the intake to match. But I used the cork gasket in the kit with a liberal amount of rtv no leaks there either. The last photo is the gap between the block and intake.
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