Custom exhaust any interest?

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Mean416

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I have a good connection with a local company that does mandrel bent exhaust for OEMs. I'm thinking about developing a bolt in exhaust system (collectors back).

All cnc mandrel bends, no crimping in the bends. Would use leak free ball flanges or slip fits at the connections. So no welding needed. Possibly stainless option?

Any interest? If I can find any local folks (NW Georgia) to partner up with I'd be willing to provide some free samples for test fitment. For now id probably stick with 67-up.
 
I have a good connection with a local company that does mandrel bent exhaust for OEMs. I'm thinking about developing a bolt in exhaust system (collectors back).

All cnc mandrel bends, no crimping in the bends. Would use leak free ball flanges or slip fits at the connections. So no welding needed. Possibly stainless option?

Any interest? If I can find any local folks (NW Georgia) to partner up with I'd be willing to provide some free samples for test fitment. For now id probably stick with 67-up.

Too bad I’m in Washington. I want to do stainless 3in with a small resonator from headers back with H pipe for Gear vendor clearance. Would like V clamps / ball flanges for easy removal when want to run open headers on the duster.
 
Too bad I’m in Washington. I want to do stainless 3in with a small resonator from headers back with H pipe for Gear vendor clearance. Would like V clamps / ball flanges for easy removal when want to run open headers on the duster.
Thanks for the feedback. Of course customization of something like this will always be a challenge. Everyone wants something special right?

Me for example I want to add in 3.5"x18" header extensions that neck down to 2.5" diameter heading out to the mufflers and tailpipe.
 
I’d be in for a set of 3” X pipes for 68 Barracuda with TTI 340 step headers. For a 416. No tail pipes just the header collectors to the mufflers.
 
I think that would be very hard to do with out the car, I don't think any two header collectors would be the same in any car. My friends has a shop with a mandrel bender and he does custom exhaust with stainless, does really nice work. If you are in N.E. Ohio call Steve

True Custom 2 1/2", 3" Mandrel Exhausts, Steve's Auto Service, Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio 44221, TECHNET Warranty, True Custom Mandrel Pipe Exhaust Bend, Car Repair, Tune Ups, Check Engine Light, Oil Change
Yes you are right. However, 1. I have a car to start with and 2. I'd build in a good measure of adjustability.

You can go a long way with slip fit exhaust and ball flanges. Some stuff would be tough for example the angled exits from tti headers.
 
I'll be interested if a set of these can be made in 3.5

Screenshot_20210922-173849.png
 
Here's the dimensions off of jegs website. Doesn't have to be exact but enough to clear torsion bar hump I'm working on a B-Body.

Screenshot_20210922-193945.png
 
I’d be in for a set of 3” X pipes for 68 Barracuda with TTI 340 step headers. For a 416. No tail pipes just the header collectors to the mufflers.
Tti have a weird angle coming out of the header. I'd need help figuring some of this out. Pm me if serious
 
3 bolt flange
Much easier/cheaper for me to do a slip joint. Check out the design below. It has a 5.5" offset, and about 18" overall length past the slip joint. You could weld on a flange if you prefer that.
header extension.png
 
OK here's what I've got so far. The dims are roughed in, I'll need to go back and fine tune this.

complete exhaust.png
For my car I have 3.5" collectors on hedman Huslers. I'm running 3.5" extensions, 18" long, into 2.5" exhaust. I'll probably do a flange of some kind on the end of the extension to make it easy to drop the exhaust at the track.

What I could do if I had a batch of these made is to offer 2.5/3/3.5 diameter extensions then provide reducers to the 2.5" tailpipes. If any real interest here I could look at other variations.
 
Seems *** backwards to me. Why would you step down 3x? WHat's the point? Clearance?
 
OK here's what I've got so far. The dims are roughed in, I'll need to go back and fine tune this.

View attachment 1715796188 For my car I have 3.5" collectors on hedman Huslers. I'm running 3.5" extensions, 18" long, into 2.5" exhaust. I'll probably do a flange of some kind on the end of the extension to make it easy to drop the exhaust at the track.

What I could do if I had a batch of these made is to offer 2.5/3/3.5 diameter extensions then provide reducers to the 2.5" tailpipes. If any real interest here I could look at other variations.
This pipe size reduction the way it is pictured is not good. Use a pressure wave cancellation box. Then continue with the smaller piping. I also understand real estate is of concern under the car.
 
Seems *** backwards to me. Why would you step down 3x? WHat's the point? Clearance?
My reasoning here is to run a header extension @ 18". The way I understand this is you are playing with pressure waves and you need at least a foot or so extension off the header to have a decent timing of the wave.

2.5" I think is more than enough flow wise for the system at my power level.

Am I off base here? I've not been able to find much info on extensions with full exhaust.
 
My reasoning here is to run a header extension @ 18". The way I understand this is you are playing with pressure waves and you need at least a foot or so extension off the header to have a decent timing of the wave.

2.5" I think is more than enough flow wise for the system at my power level.

Am I off base here? I've not been able to find much info on extensions with full exhaust.

I definitely understand the logic with the extension and agree with it. I just don't see the point of choking it down to 2.5 after the extension.
 
To try it out and see if it improves et. Why would anyone mess with anything at the track?

Over rated, extra work, to gain what? A few hundreths? A tenth? We bracket race anyhow. Want to go faster with less effort? Take the passenger seat out and the back seat. Takes 5 min tops and will yield you a tenth or so. Run cutouts or just make it run well through the pipes. The fact that you think it will run better after dropping the exhaust says that it's 1. too fat 2. too small of a diameter 3. not a high flow muffler and 4. the car is too heavy.
 
Over rated, extra work, to gain what? A few hundreths? A tenth? We bracket race anyhow. Want to go faster with less effort? Take the passenger seat out and the back seat. Takes 5 min tops and will yield you a tenth or so. Run cutouts or just make it run well through the pipes. The fact that you think it will run better after dropping the exhaust says that it's 1. too fat 2. too small of a diameter 3. not a high flow muffler and 4. the car is too heavy.

I get it. Anyhow this isn't really the purpose of this thread. I'm testing the waters on developing an exhaust
 
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