Need 318 Gurus

-
Something about that orange motor looks off to me. Are you sure that is an LA 318 and not a Poly 318 ?
 
I'd use the front of the blue motor for a 75 Ramcharger. More factory correct that way. It would include pulling the oil pan and timing cover too, so, you can check bearings, install the correct oil pan and pickup, replace timing chain set if necessary, and check the valve timing.
 
Oh, and they're both LA motors. Poly blocks don't have freeze plugs in the front.
 
Ok, so here are 2 scenarios. I just have questions on each, and then I'll leave everyone alone...

For reference; Blue engine = later year, aluminum water pump/timing cover
Orange engine = early year, cast iron water pump/timing cover

1- Move the water pump and timing cover from the blue engine to the orange. This will give me the WP inlet on the pass side, which will allow me to also use the alternator/PS pump brackets AND pulleys that are currently on the blue engine. In an earlier post, there was mention that the damper should be matched to the crank. So, that means keep the orange damper and re-do the timing marks? Or use the blue damper to keep the timing tab/marks where they are with the blue set up?

2- Keep the current water pump and timing cover on the orange engine and try to find alternator/PS pump brackets and pulleys for the early set up. Are those going to be WAY harder to find?

I'll get the correct radiator, depending on which water pump is used.
The oil pan and pick need to be changed to the truck style, so that is a given for either motor.

Thanks again for all the guidance.
 
Just my 2 cents..


Go with the Blue engine. Parts are readily available . also, one note. Do a leak-down and compression test . Also, a good time to check the heads . The results will sway your decision to the best one to use.
 
Leak down test both motors.
Use the one with the best ring seal.
Swap,if necessary , the later front cover/pump to work in your car.
Also swap the adjustable rockers and push rods for best performance if necessary.
 
jonn6464 said:
... In an earlier post, there was mention that the damper should be matched to the crank. So, that means keep the orange damper and re-do the timing marks? Or use the blue damper to keep the timing tab/marks where they are with the blue set up?.. .
Click to expand...

318's are neutral balanced so the balance is the same for both dampers. You have to pull the dampers to swap timing covers. Plus there is a difference with attaching bolts for the pulley between early and late 318's. Not really a big deal, you can deal with it, but why? Your call.

P1010001 (2).JPG
P1010002 (3).JPG
 
Mopar Tim said:
That orange engine is a 67 318. For sure....It has Swirl port heads on it, only casting number on them is 714. The last year for these heads....
Click to expand...


67 318's and 273's had 920 closed chamber heads, and there was another number that I can't recall right now....

Then in 68 they switched to open chamber heads... 67 was the last year of the closed chamber heads on the 273/318...
 
jonn6464 said:
Ok, so here are 2 scenarios. I just have questions on each, and then I'll leave everyone alone...

For reference; Blue engine = later year, aluminum water pump/timing cover
Orange engine = early year, cast iron water pump/timing cover

1- Move the water pump and timing cover from the blue engine to the orange. This will give me the WP inlet on the pass side, which will allow me to also use the alternator/PS pump brackets AND pulleys that are currently on the blue engine. In an earlier post, there was mention that the damper should be matched to the crank. So, that means keep the orange damper and re-do the timing marks? Or use the blue damper to keep the timing tab/marks where they are with the blue set up?

2- Keep the current water pump and timing cover on the orange engine and try to find alternator/PS pump brackets and pulleys for the early set up. Are those going to be WAY harder to find?

I'll get the correct radiator, depending on which water pump is used.
The oil pan and pick need to be changed to the truck style, so that is a given for either motor.

Thanks again for all the guidance.
Click to expand...


If you're gonna put it into a Ramcharger, you may need to change the oil pan to a truck pan if they don't already have one on it... And get a matching oil pump pick up tube to match...

The hump is in a different spot on a truck pan than on a car pan....

How to ID a Small Block Oil Pan 60's - 80's
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Not with those rocker arms. Those were discontinued in 67, 68 in up were hyd non adj rockers.
Click to expand...
True, but, if the engine was rebuilt from the ground up, it could be any year block with any year components. The only way to know for sure is to get casting numbers and date codes off everything.
 
66fs said:
Not sure adjustable rockers were ever factory on a LA 318.
Click to expand...
A 273 deal typically, though there are 1967 LA318's made.
Consider the 1967 318 industrials and others with the #234 heads. They weren't falling from trees, that's for sure, so they're NOT expected to be known of. Adjustable rockers on those...?
 
Last edited:
Matched as a set:
Red =
  • Dampener,
  • The bolt on "Timing Mark" bracket
  • Timing chain cover
  • Iron Water pump
  • Both Crank and fan pulleys.

You can move these over to the Blue engine as a set.

Oil pans... Yes you will need a truck pan for a 318. Use a LOW volume oil pump.
But for $260 get a Kevco 318 truck pan and matching $60 Kevco pickup. This gives so much better oil control and with its scraper and baffels frees up 10 to 15 HP at 4500 RPM.
 
AAndrews said:
Just my 2 cents..


Go with the Blue engine. Parts are readily available . also, one note. Do a leak-down and compression test . Also, a good time to check the heads . The results will sway your decision to the best one to use.
Click to expand...
the short blocks between the orange and blue engines shown, are the same/ once the WP, T/chain cover and damper are pulled.
 
cudamark said:
I'd use the front of the blue motor for a 75 Ramcharger. More factory correct that way. It would include pulling the oil pan and timing cover too, so, you can check bearings, install the correct oil pan and pickup, replace timing chain set if necessary, and check the valve timing.
Click to expand...
I believe trucks and for sure, Vans, have the oil sump reverse from the cars. You will need to change that along with the pick-ups tube and strainer. Years ago I installed a 69' 340 into a 72' Van and just changed over all the external items and it fit well. Note: had to fabricate the motor mounts(340 and 318 were different). The 340 never came stock in a Van. Also the truck and vans had a one qt. larger sump.
 
In any off road vehicle oil pan control of the oil is very important. Every time you hit a bump the oil in the stock pan is slouched up on the spinning crankshaft. This wall of oil hitting a 4,000 RPM crank slows it down and its a huge loss in power and froths up the oil. Frothy oil does not lube bearings.....

By putting in some simple baffles to stop that oil wall slouching up will free up some power. Works on the street too but so much better off road.

I do not remember if it was Smokie or Shelby that wanted to know how the oil responded in a race car so he filled up the pan and strapped it down to the right seat and went around the race track to see. Added baffles to help keep the oil in the pan.
 
Dave_J said:
In any off road vehicle oil pan control of the oil is very important. Every time you hit a bump the oil in the stock pan is slouched up on the spinning crankshaft. This wall of oil hitting a 4,000 RPM crank slows it down and its a huge loss in power and froths up the oil. Frothy oil does not lube bearings.....

By putting in some simple baffles to stop that oil wall slouching up will free up some power. Works on the street too but so much better off road.

I do not remember if it was Smokie or Shelby that wanted to know how the oil responded in a race car so he filled up the pan and strapped it down to the right seat and went around the race track to see. Added baffles to help keep the oil in the pan.
Click to expand...
Dodge 340's had a windage tray, which would do exactly what you are referring too. I have always used them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top