QA1 dynamic strut rods

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66Valiant528

66Valiant528

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Has anyone installed the A body strut rods without pulling the torsion bar? I can cut the old rusty ones out and remove them. Can you get enough travel on the lower control arm to snake the new adjustable ones in? Can you pull the bolt at the k frame pivot side and slide the bar in? Anybody done or attempted this?
And is this the (for racing purposes) best strut rod available?
 
I replaced the bushings without removing the torsion bars. I can’t remember if I backed off on the lower control arm pivot nut and knocked it back a touch. I can remember it being easier than I thought it would be. I’m old and its been awhile.
 
I'm not sure what brand my Hinged strut rod were.....But i remember in the instructions that i said that you COULD install the strut rod with out removing the lower control arm but required cutting the factory one out.

I was replacing every thing so my lower control arm and T- bar was laying on the ground when my new strut rods showed up.
Side Note: this was for a E body not a A body.
 
So. It looks like I'll be following the directions if I use a QA1 rod. Single pivot point style. Is this the best or only dynamic strut rod recommended?
 
This is just my opinion.......and hear say....... but, they are grate and help loosen up, and give travel, easier.
and here is the hear say" the hinded rod don't last long on the street...............
 

I got the QA1 strut rods on my 71 Demon...also got the RMS upper control arms on it with Hiem joints.....front end transfer the weight....

The other car..71 Dart has RMS strut rods and UCA Hiem joints too...

adjustable strut rods and uca with hiem joints...plus 90/10 shocks transfer the weight
 
I just ground the shoulder down on the stock strut rod, - ran a die down it, used nec washers and bushings, coulda used a heim I guess . .
That was for roundy-round racing, about 40 yrs ago. .+ 10* caster or more ! ! . . lol
 
I have the QA1 upper arms but not with heim joints. Needed some front end attention, when the car was skating around at 131 mph.....but my super nose heavy Valiant barely lifts the front an inch at launch. 1.565 best 60 ft ever but 10.23 at 131.5 mpb. Should I care?
 
66Valiant528 said:
I have the QA1 upper arms but not with heim joints. Needed some front end attention, when the car was skating around at 131 mph.....but my super nose heavy Valiant barely lifts the front an inch at launch. 1.565 best 60 ft ever but 10.23 at 131.5 mpb. Should I care?
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Should you care???? if your in the front end already then YES!!! If not, probably not.......
 
66Valiant528 said:
This is for a drag car only.
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Since you have to pull the lower arms, why not upgrade your lower arm bushings to hard nylon. I also put in greasable pivot pins.
I think they were from firm feel.
Adjust your strut rods to optimum to minimize lower arm bind.
I also put in Rms upper control arms that use the big ball joints with hemi joints. I replaced the upper ball joints with qa1 1 inch longer low friction ball joints. The 1 inch longer joint minimizes camber change. I use a Calvert front shock which no bull is a true 90/10 shock. These pull apart easier than any shock on the market according to Calvert and I believe they do.
A single wheel Ken Keir wheelie bar in case it all works lol.
 
66Valiant528 said:
I have the QA1 upper arms but not with heim joints. Needed some front end attention, when the car was skating around at 131 mph.....but my super nose heavy Valiant barely lifts the front an inch at launch. 1.565 best 60 ft ever but 10.23 at 131.5 mpb. Should I care?
Click to expand...
Whether you care or not is up to you, but with that et and 60 ft, I would say there more in it. 131.5 should be at least 10.00 flat or high 9,s. 60 ft is off.
 
Yes, I agree my 60 is off and that's why I'm considering the aftermarket strut rods. I have DA Viking shocks all around and put a poly bushing in the lower arm. I can't say that they will hurt the car. I have the Calvert rear split mono leaf and bar set up. But my 4.5 bore Mopar megablock, Browell and 4 speed Lenco are all very heavy. Car weighs 3350 with me in it and 4 gallons of fuel.
 
Just some fyi
I did a little videos of my front end before and after.



There wasn't any weight saving with the new parts..........but it sure took a lot less effort with the new parts.
 
According to the RMS website you can install their strut rod without pulling the lower control arm or torsion bar. The end that goes into the control arm has a stud that screws into the strut rod. And the car is all together . That's why I was asking if you could fit the QA1 rods in without taking the torsion bars out..
 
66Valiant528 said:
Yes, I agree my 60 is off and that's why I'm considering the aftermarket strut rods. I have DA Viking shocks all around and put a poly bushing in the lower arm. I can't say that they will hurt the car. I have the Calvert rear split mono leaf and bar set up. But my 4.5 bore Mopar megablock, Browell and 4 speed Lenco are all very heavy. Car weighs 3350 with me in it and 4 gallons of fuel.
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Weight of the car aside, your car weight and speed means the motor is making the power. If your chassis is working 100%, you should get an ideal et. 130 mph is right around 10.00 flat. Your a bit better than that. 10.20s is not quite right. 60ft is where it is not right.
What's the rest of your combo. Maybe we can help if we see the rest of the combo.
 
66Valiant528 said:
Yes, I agree my 60 is off and that's why I'm considering the aftermarket strut rods. I have DA Viking shocks all around and put a poly bushing in the lower arm. I can't say that they will hurt the car. I have the Calvert rear split mono leaf and bar set up. But my 4.5 bore Mopar megablock, Browell and 4 speed Lenco are all very heavy. Car weighs 3350 with me in it and 4 gallons of fuel.
Click to expand...
There are lots of good double adjustable shocks out there. I have double qa1 in the back, but I was really surprised at the Calvert front shocks. Afaik there is nothing else that compares.
They are not adjustable, but they pull apart easier than any shock that I'm aware. They are also very affordable. I know guys that have put them on that swear by them. Calvert is not joking when he says a "true" 90/10 shock
 
I have not tried the front shocks on full loose yet and....I haven't launched the car above 5500 rpms yet. I've been working my way up. McLeod soft locker with a Lenco. It's been suggested that I dump the clutch at a higher rpm. Peak horse is 7200. A 308 solid roller cam. S60 rear.
 
Duane said:
Weight of the car aside, your car weight and speed means the motor is making the power. If your chassis is working 100%, you should get an ideal et. 130 mph is right around 10.00 flat. Your a bit better than that. 10.20s is not quite right. 60ft is where it is not right.
What's the rest of your combo. Maybe we can help if we see the rest of the combo.
Click to expand...

usually 10 flat is a good bit more than 130, unless its a NHRA class type car, from what i have seen.
Usually 130 is more like 10. 20 ish
 
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