69 dodge dart

-

Jesse Stevenson

Active Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
38
Reaction score
3
Location
77389
I am wondering if a 94 Ford ranger 8.8 rearend will work with some modifications in my 69 dodge dart?
 
Any rear will work. Just what you have to do to it to make it fit is the tricky part.
 
Lots of people use those, for various swaps. I don't remember the "formula" it's something like find another short side axle and shorten the long side to take that axle or some such
 
Lots of people use those, for various swaps. I don't remember the "formula" it's something like find another short side axle and shorten the long side to take that axle or some such
Thank you this is my first A body car and I'm learning as I go , again I appreciate your info.
 
I have one in my 68 dart....

You need to cut off the ranger spring brackets including the ones for the shocks.

Weld a pair of these on and make a driveshaft and enjoy limited slip and a ton of aftermarket support for rebuilds and gear changes.

Mopar Performance P4120074 Mopar Performance Rear Spring Mounting Seats | Summit Racing

dcc-4120074.jpg
 
Thank you for the reply, I will have to get a short side axle
Mopar rears use axels that are the same length, this shifts the centerline of the rear yoke to the passanger side.

Ford and others center the yoke to the car. To do that one axle needs to be shorter than the other.

To use the Ford, the long side of the housing needs to be cut down to be the same length as the short side. And another short side axle needs to be purchased. The long side is either not long enough to be shortened and resplined or the second short side is cheaper to buy.
 
Thank you, I will have to get a short side axle also?
That's only if you use one from an explorer. The ranger is ready to go as is.

The reason more people prefer the explorer rear over the ranger rear is because the axles are thicker on the Explorer and the explorer rear is going to have disc brakes.

The ranger didn't have as thick of axles and drum brakes but can handle a lot of power, I would only use a shortened explorer rear end if I ran a heavily modified, high horsepower engine.

I have never heard of a broken ranger 8.8 even behind various Chevy and ford V8s
 
Do you plan on keeping the car?

If you plan on keeping it, i'd cut right to the chase and get a Dana 60 and never look back.
 
Mopar rears use axels that are the same length, this shifts the centerline of the rear yoke to the passanger side.

Ford and others center the yoke to the car. To do that one axle needs to be shorter than the other.

To use the Ford, the long side of the housing needs to be cut down to be the same length as the short side. And another short side axle needs to be purchased. The long side is either not long enough to be shortened and resplined or the second short side is cheaper to buy.
 
Thank you for your reply that was very helpful and I will try this after the 24th, I will be going to a swap meet in Conroe TX and if I can't find the right one for the car I will definitely go with your advice.
 
if I can't find the right one for the car I will definitely go with your advice
Be sure to note Princess Valient's note above about ranger vs explorer.


Bottom line is you want the pinion to NOT be centered on the car, you want it centered on the trans
 
Lots of bad info in this thread. The pinion needs to be centered in the TUNNEL. Different rearends have different pinion offsets even when the axles are the same length. Mustang 8.8 pinions are offset 1/2" with same length axles. Just because a stock rearend has a certain offset doesn't mean that you should duplicate it; The abody offset is too far to the right. I created an exactly centered pinion on an 8.8 with stock parts using an early ranger short axle on one side and a later (93-up) short axle on the other (Not for an A body). One inch axle length difference moved the pinion to the left 1/2"; centering it. If you want to use a stock 8.8 in an early a, then use a pre-93 Ranger. If you search for a short axle to do the narrowing, make sure it has the same size register for the brake drum. 7.5 axles fit (being the same 28 spline) , but the register is smaller. I prefer using 7.5 axles and brakes on a really narrow 8.8 to clear the springs. The backing plates measure farther apart on a 7.5 than an 8.8 (Of the same width) because the shoes and drums are narrower.
 
Lots of bad info in this thread. The pinion needs to be centered in the TUNNEL. Different rearends have different pinion offsets even when the axles are the same length. Mustang 8.8 pinions are offset 1/2" with same length axles. Just because a stock rearend has a certain offset doesn't mean that you should duplicate it; The abody offset is too far to the right. I created an exactly centered pinion on an 8.8 with stock parts using an early ranger short axle on one side and a later (93-up) short axle on the other (Not for an A body). One inch axle length difference moved the pinion to the left 1/2"; centering it. If you want to use a stock 8.8 in an early a, then use a pre-93 Ranger. If you search for a short axle to do the narrowing, make sure it has the same size register for the brake drum. 7.5 axles fit (being the same 28 spline) , but the register is smaller. I prefer using 7.5 axles and brakes on a really narrow 8.8 to clear the springs. The backing plates measure farther apart on a 7.5 than an 8.8 (Of the same width) because the shoes and drums are narrower.
 
When I fit a rearend, I determine the pinion center by placing a 4" diameter ABS sewer pipe into the tunnel (4 feet is long enough) , then measuring from it to the springs to find actual driveshaft/pinion center. Do it on level ground with the old rear end still in place. You will find that the original pinion isn't centered to the tunnel; about half an inch to the passenger side.
 
-
Back
Top