Voltage regs and Amps?

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Ironracer

Ironracer

Gearhead
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Had to buy the wrong alt for my 74 Duster. It's a 60 or 65 Amp from a van. Only one in (85 bucks? Don't remember if that was before or after core.) Damn thing took a dump, good thing it had a lifetime warranty ( how the hell can they send our parts to China to be re-manned?
OK rant over, question is: will the extra amps fry my stuff, no extra electric, but roll at nite sometimes, or does the volt reg limit amps too?
Thanks, and I hope Everyone is doing good
 
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Weren't stock alternators 80 or 100 amp ?
Sorry, I wish I knew electrical better.
China=puke emoji
 
You'll be fine. The car only uses the amps it needs.

The regulator controls volts, not amps. Too much voltage will fry stuff.
 
Well it IS an issue "sometimes." The later cars had the big white connector under the hood to separate the engine harness (Thanks Redfish) This thing deteriorates and needs repaired, so inspect it THE MAIN alternator output wire goes throught hat. Also the bulkhead connector/ ammeter circuit is an issue. Inspect the bulkhead connector by separating the connector halves and look carefully. READ the "MAD" article for insight

Catalog

Also CHECK charging voltage when you get it all running. With engine warm and battery charged "and normalized" check charging voltage with accessories off and engine on fast idle. If it is much over 14.5, look for problems in the circuits above as well as the ignition circuit. VOLTAGE DROP through the ignition "run" circuit causes over-voltage/ over-charging

These girls varied from 37--65 BUT FACTORY 65 alternators HAD A MODIFIED CHARGING CIRCUIT known as "fleet/ police/ taxi" which partially bypassed the bulkhead connector
 
67Dart273 said:
Well it IS an issue "sometimes." The later cars had the big white connector under the hood to separate the engine harness (Thanks Redfish) This thing deteriorates and needs repaired, so inspect it THE MAIN alternator output wire goes throught hat. Also the bulkhead connector/ ammeter circuit is an issue. Inspect the bulkhead connector by separating the connector halves and look carefully. READ the "MAD" article for insight

Catalog

Also CHECK charging voltage when you get it all running. With engine warm and battery charged "and normalized" check charging voltage with accessories off and engine on fast idle. If it is much over 14.5, look for problems in the circuits above as well as the ignition circuit. VOLTAGE DROP through the ignition "run" circuit causes over-voltage/ over-charging

These girls varied from 37--65 BUT FACTORY 65 alternators HAD A MODIFIED CHARGING CIRCUIT known as "fleet/ police/ taxi" which partially bypassed the bulkhead connector
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Thanks Del!
OK. I don't recall a white connector. I'll double check in a few. Just checked voltage on batt ( on trickle). Would even a stock ( van app) from the 80s have the same protection?
 
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flingdingo said:
You'll be fine. The car only uses the amps it needs.

The regulator controls volts, not amps. Too much voltage will fry stuff.
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Yes. I know from My household electric, that volts is the amount, but amps r the speed. If you get bit, it's the amps that'll hurt I was told many years ago. I think..... lol
 
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Ironracer said:
Thanks Del!
OK. I don't recall a white connector. I'll double check in a few. Just checked voltage on batt ( on trickle). Would even a stock ( van app) from the 80s have the same protection?
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I'm not really familiar with the van wiring. That could go either way. About all I can advise is "trace it" and see if the charge wire goes through the bulkhead, AND if the ammeter has large wires like the older cars

SOME of the newer cars used "external shunt" ammeters --the clue is that the ammeter wires are very small like 18 or 16 or so because they no longer carry much current due to the shunt--which in reality is part of the wire harness itself
 
It's my 74 Duster. Redfish ( Thanks!) Sent me the right gauge at no cost,after I bought one off e bay ( seller claimed to work, for my app) from a 75. That's the one I sent you
 
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If this is a race car, you only want an alt that is big enough [ 35 amp? ] to keep the battery charged. Any thing bigger than reqd saps hp. You are probably aware that some racers remove the fan belt when racing to reduce hp loss. Not always wise with some ign systems.
 
Bewy said:
If this is a race car, you only want an alt that is big enough [ 35 amp? ] to keep the battery charged. Any thing bigger than reqd saps hp. You are probably aware that some racers remove the fan belt when racing to reduce hp loss. Not always wise with some ign systems.
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It built her on the fine line, that I determined, would handle daily driving in Tampa ( and she did, for almost 2 years, in my 66 Sat!) So it needed to run, without issues, in heavy traffic, if required. And yes, and old Mopar Bro told me to drop that, and the p/s belt at the track! Lol
 
Ironracer said:
It built her on the fine line, that I determined, would handle daily driving in Tampa ( and she did, for almost 2 years, in my 66 Sat!) So it needed to run, without issues, in heavy traffic, if required. And yes, and old Mopar Bro told me to drop that, and the p/s belt at the track! Lol
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just add a switch to turn the field off during the pass.
 
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