Grinding, " diesel " noise under valve covers

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Fired it up. Still has a sound. I wonder if it's just the rockers rubbing each other a Lil bit. They look like they are touching. I'm going nuts...
 
They must be around .004-.006
I like them on the street at .003-.0035

My KB 107s ended up at .004 and change, after I took it apart and opened her up twice!
And the top gap at their street spec (.0065per inch bore) was way too tight. I opened it up to towing spec (I don't remember that one, maybe .008?) and that ended both the overheating and the locking up at shut-down. That engine got herself a whole new personality.
At .004 the skirts barely rattle and only for a few seconds.
I jumped the minimum operating temp up, and in the Third summer, she finally became the engine that I thought I had built.

You know what tics me is;
the skirt clearance of those KB107s was listed at a factor that at 4.04 bore worked out to about .0015 IIRC. And that is what I had expected them to be when I got the block back.
Instead I got .003. When I returned to the machine shop somewhat irate, the owner explained to me that there was no way he would clearance the KB107s to .0015. I was pretty upset that IMO, he was calling KB liars; but since his shop is the bigshot shop around here and builds engines for most of the Circle-Track cars hereabouts; I bit my lip.
Fast-forward Two years, and a second set of rings plus gaskets, and there I was at .0042ish with file-fits.
Man am I glad I didn't blow up at that shop-owner.
 
It's not the valvetrain.
Just got back from a Friend's place. Borrowed a stethoscope and a endoscopic gimmick w/ a side scope. Gonna warm her up and listen after pump goes back on. Getting dark though. May get some lights.. did the screwdriver in timing cover, all is tight there.. except fuel pump. Now I'm second guessing myself. Was the fuel pump the noise? And I'm a hearing rockers rubbing now? Or did nothing change?
 
Just got back from a Friend's place. Borrowed a stethoscope and a endoscopic gimmick w/ a side scope. Gonna warm her up and listen after pump goes back on. Getting dark though. May get some lights.. did the screwdriver in timing cover, all is tight there.. except fuel pump. Now I'm second guessing myself. Was the fuel pump the noise? And I'm a hearing rockers rubbing now? Or did nothing change?

Run it without the fuel pump.
Cover the hole with cardboard and bolts just to keep chain oil spray in.. it will run on the fuel bowls for a min which is enough time to tell it's not the fuel pump.
 
Run it without the fuel pump.
Cover hole with cardboard and bolts just o keep chain spray in.. it will run on the fuel bowls for a min. Enough to tell it's not the fuel pump.
I ran it without it... I gonna have to do it again. It's definitely got some sound still...maybe less sound..
 
That's not too close?

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Thank s To ALL the Mopar Brothers Here, i ain't done yet! Once we get done with this darn rotted up 2nd story siding job, my Bro here is going to come listen. He swears it was a healthy sounding, still new motor. But he can't be too sure.. we drove it together a few times. Never popped the hood. I nailed it, and he said " I did something wrong, really wrong.." I asked what he meant. He said " my 460..." lol. So I'm gonna put the pump back on, run it till it's warm, w/ a 2nd set of ears, to see if it subsides. He thinks the rockers are too close, and they are rubbing. I dunno. I still have to cut the oil filter open. If that doesn't do it, then there is this

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Are the pushrods clearing?
Check'em, after that... might have to pull it apart at least the heads to see the cylinders. And is there a valley baffle tray used? They require Clearancing
Only valley tray is bottom of the intake. Never thought of pushrods rubbing .. what's the best way to eliminate/ check that? And wouldn't that have been there always? I wish there was a Mopar Ear near. Lol
 
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Could the rockers be swapped?
Well, they were New MP. HD units. I used a book to put em on.... now when you say " swapped" do you mean bank to bank? Or dig up some 318 stockers, or did you mean I got the R @ L swapped during install? At this point, I ain't ruling nothing out. And this " sound" I did notice awhile back. I just want to find out what it is, and rule out Anything that could cause CatEngFail
 
Yeah I was thinking maybe the R and L got swapped? But looking at them that would be damned near impossible.
Well, they were New MP. HD units. I used a book to put em on.... now when you say " swapped" do you mean bank to bank? Or dig up some 318 stockers, or did you mean I got the R @ L swapped during install? At this point, I ain't ruling nothing out. And this " sound" I did notice awhile back. I just want to find out what it is, and rule out Anything that could cause CatEngFail
 
I don't know a pimple on a bugs butt, compared to most Y'all. And I'm slow, when it matters. It takes me a Long Time to do some stuff on my car. Cause I want it Done Right, the First Time! I can't afford to do it twice, nor to I want to. So I do my Best to double check ✔ procedures. Man, I even use a torque wrench on tie rod ends! 45# , 20 # on sleeves? I dunno, I'll check the book. But yes. After looking at the pic, seems they are located correctly. And I don't ever recall spacers between em. I just don't know.
 
I'll be right back.. from what I recall, the shaft hold downs are what keep em from walking around.. I'm going outside
 
I'm no Pro, it just looks tight. When I ran her last nite, it didn't appear to come from there. But I had the rocker box on, when running w/o pump..

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