headers

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moparraceman

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what headers work best not TTI something cheaper on a 340 1973 dodge dart ? has any one use patroit headers ? or jegs brand ? under chassie thanks
 
I have the Jegs /Summit cheapies. About $150 now.I have no complaints.
318 in a 63 Belvedere. I did use the Remflex gaskets instead of what came with the headers.
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Definitely I always use Summit over jegs and you're going to get basically the same thing except for the customer service...
I use cheap headers and have had zero problems with them for 8 years on the current car and years before that as well. I second the remflex gaskets...
 
And definitely throw those gaskets that come with the cheap headers in the garbage to make sure nobody makes the mistake of using them...
 
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Sorry not the best photos . On the driver side the last 2 spark plug wires I run heat sleeves .The pipe is real close to the plugs because these are made to fit A B E F universal Mopars. They are bent that way to fit passed the steering column on A bodies. Tons of room on a B. I may heat and bend that pipe away but the sleeves are working.
 
I put jegs headers on about 3 years ago they were a pretty darn good header for the money the flanges are very heavy and required me to use longer Allen style header bolts for easier installation but zero problems since then.

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Sorry not the best photos . On the driver side the last 2 spark plug wires I run heat sleeves .The pipe is real close to the plugs because these are made to fit A B E F universal Mopars. They are bent that way to fit passed the steering column on A bodies. Tons of room on a B. I may heat and bend that pipe away but the sleeves are working.
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And I run elbows on the 5/7 with heat shields going under the pipe..
 
We put Patriots on my brother's 73 dart sport, price was right, fit was good.
Remflex gaskets,absolutely.
 
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what headers work best not TTI something cheaper on a 340 1973 dodge dart ? has any one use patroit headers ? or jegs brand ? under chassie thanks
For a priced cheaper header;
I’ve used Summit 1-5/8 headers with there thicker head flange. The tubes have not yet needed a hammer. Used on A & E bodies.

If the next size tube up is needed, (1-3/4) inexpensive is not possible, but look to the Hooker Super Comps.
 
For a priced cheaper header;
I’ve used Summit 1-5/8 headers with there thicker head flange. The tubes have not yet needed a hammer. Used on A & E bodies.

If the next size tube up is needed, (1-3/4) inexpensive is not possible, but look to the Hooker Super Comps.
Nothing wrong with cheaper headers I have had Summit headers on my D150 for many years only having to change a gasket once. I have TTIs on my 367 c.i. Dart and I hate them I can’t wait to change back to Tubular Automotive brand if and when they can get tubing to build them again. I just had to change engines and the TTI headers were the most time consuming part of the job.

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Hedman.

Pay attention to the flange, size,alignment, height on the scummit/cheap house brand headers...they're too low and the pipe weld to the flange is stacked and intrusive/restrictive.
Weld to weld they are NOT as big as the port window.
 
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It’s nice not to cringe every time I hit a pot hole or dip in the road.
That is one of the downfalls to cheaper headers.
I made a small skid plate for the drivers side header for that reason.
I suggest using better hi heat paint than what is original or ceramic coating.
 
100% AGREED! with you there. Same boat (TTI) on the wife’s ‘67 Cuda. I bought the Summit headers for the engine test run stand. I ended up using them on my ‘72 Duster. There a little small for the job at hand, but everything went and sealed up nice and hood.

Nothing wrong with cheaper headers I have had Summit headers on my D150 for many years only having to change a gasket once. I have TTIs on my 367 c.i. Dart and I hate them I can’t wait to change back to Tubular Automotive brand if and when they can get tubing to build them again. I just had to change engines and the TTI headers were the most time consuming part of the job.

View attachment 1715811336
 
For a priced cheaper header;
I’ve used Summit 1-5/8 headers with there thicker head flange. The tubes have not yet needed a hammer. Used on A & E bodies.

If the next size tube up is needed, (1-3/4) inexpensive is not possible, but look to the Hooker Super Comps.
And be sure to have your hammer ready next to the steering box! Also had to remove the grease fitting on one of the drag link or tie rod ends (LH side). Put it back in now and then to grease the joint then take it back out.
 
For the Super Comps?
I had zero issues with the Summit headers 3 times running now.
And be sure to have your hammer ready next to the steering box! Also had to remove the grease fitting on one of the drag link or tie rod ends (LH side). Put it back in now and then to grease the joint then take it back out.
 
As far as cheap headers go I like the hooker comp the best. Thicker flanges, thicker tubes and no denting on my car. 68 dart. I always wanted to try the skid plate thing and never got around to it. Patriots look just like hookers to me .
 
I also had a set of Hooker headers. They did require one hammer ding @ the PS box. It should be noted that the mounts were OE and a little worn. How much they sagged is a question I can’t answer. But I did like the headers a lot.
 
I Daily Drove my nickle-plated TTIs for six years and had to repair the merges twice where the gravel and snow and salt collects. And they needed it again in the sixth or seventh year.
For me it was no big deal cuz I was swapping engine twice a year anyway. But if I hadnabin, that would have been exasperating ...... to say the least. For the price of the TTIs I couldda had almost 3, "off brand" header sets, and not had to do any repairs.
So IDK, IMO; Nickle-plated TTIs are not the bees-knees, for a DD.
 
I dont like Hookers "O-ring" flanges. Too easy to over tighten the thin flanges and a small sealing surface especially on gasket matched ports! Normal ride height the cheapies work fine.
 
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