440 build for a tow rig/"muscle" truck?

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I bought several sets of HD rockers new and they were visually thicker in areas.
Cost was around $100 from DC.

Oh ok nice, any spots I can measure with calipers to check that? I don't have micrometers, definitely need to get some sooner than later...
 
Its been a long time since I held them side by side but you should be able to search the part # and / or info on them .
 
I’m interested in how this turns out. I have an ‘83 RamCharger that I want to put a big block and a manual trans in. This Lakewood bell housing fits the big blocks and numerous transmissions including the NV4500 and the one I want, the Tremec TR-4050.
It’s expensive, but it’s also really cool.
Lakewood 15335 Lakewood Safety Bellhousings | Summit Racing

Also, the TR-4050 would have to be the long input shaft model for this application
 
As I haven't read the complete thread so don't hate me but if the $$$ are there stroke it. About 500 c.i. lots of torque and you'll need less gear. Better gas millage. Ben there done that.
 
As I haven't read the complete thread so don't hate me but if the $$$ are there stroke it. About 500 c.i. lots of torque and you'll need less gear. Better gas millage. Ben there done that.
I ain't knockin your idea but he's building a 440 with aluminum heads. That can make 500 LB FT fallin outta bed if he does it right. Just no need for a stroker.
 
As I haven't read the complete thread so don't hate me but if the $$$ are there stroke it. About 500 c.i. lots of torque and you'll need less gear. Better gas millage. Ben there done that.

Not a bad idea at all but, the $$$ isn't there lol. My "best-case scenario" plan was actually to find an already-rebuilt stock-ish 440 and just re-hone the cylinders with new pistons, put on the aluminum heads/cam/intake and send it. Now that I have a core which needs a full rebuild I'm going to spend money where necessary to have it machined right but I'm still looking to save money where possible.

I’m interested in how this turns out. I have an ‘83 RamCharger that I want to put a big block and a manual trans in. This Lakewood bell housing fits the big blocks and numerous transmissions including the NV4500 and the one I want, the Tremec TR-4050.
It’s expensive, but it’s also really cool.
Lakewood 15335 Lakewood Safety Bellhousings | Summit Racing

Also, the TR-4050 would have to be the long input shaft model for this application

That is awesome but dang, almost $900 just for a bellhousing, I'm hoping to have an entire good-working rebuilt 727 for that kind of money. Manual trans would be the tits but swapping to anything besides an NP-435 is way outside my budget. And honestly I don't have the motivation to cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, swap pedal assemblies, figure out clutch linkage etc.
 
Well I just got a new aluminum water pump, water pump housing and that long drill bit from 440Source but now I'm wondering... the stock iron pump housing that came with my core 440 has the inlet on the passenger side while this 440Source one is driver-side. My truck currently has a 26" aluminum radiator from ECP with the ports located for SB application with the inlet on the passenger side. If I reuse the old iron housing I'd be able to keep the current radiator right? I would prefer to lose the 15 lbs or so off the front end and also have the higher flow from the larger passages but nobody seems to have any pass-side Al housings in stock... and returning this 440Source housing and not needing to buy another radiator would save me about $350-400.

Thinking more about it I'd have to pay return shipping and a possible restocking fee, might just hang on to the 440Source housing if I decide to put this 440 in a car later on... it was only $100
 
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Summit has some nice universal rads. When I got the one in my Duster it was very affordable. And has kept my 440 cool
 
Alright well last Sunday I drilled out the oil passages, pretty easy I just had to be careful at the beginning of each hole to make sure the bit didn't grab the wrong part of iron. Took maybe 20 minutes tops, probably wasn't necessary but for the time and money invested there's really no reason not to.

Yesterday I dropped the block (with main caps and bolts) and crank to the machine shop but the owner asked if I had gotten pistons yet... I said no, hadn't figured out which type or oversize I need but then he said he won't try to bore and hone the block without having a piston to size it to. Makes a lot of sense actually. I'm gonna call him on Monday to see what kind of overbore size he recommends, I'm guessing .030" over should do the job since the bores have a noticeable ridge but I'll wait to order pistons until I confirm with him. I did find Icon pistons that I think will put my compression ratio where I want it and aren't super ultra heavy like the repro TRW forgings, price is also good it's just about the same as KB hypers (I know they are made by the same company)...

ICON IC9947-030 ICON FHR Series Pistons | Summit Racing
 
Well I just got a new aluminum water pump, water pump housing and that long drill bit from 440Source but now I'm wondering... the stock iron pump housing that came with my core 440 has the inlet on the passenger side while this 440Source one is driver-side. My truck currently has a 26" aluminum radiator from ECP with the ports located for SB application with the inlet on the passenger side. If I reuse the old iron housing I'd be able to keep the current radiator right? I would prefer to lose the 15 lbs or so off the front end and also have the higher flow from the larger passages but nobody seems to have any pass-side Al housings in stock... and returning this 440Source housing and not needing to buy another radiator would save me about $350-400.

Thinking more about it I'd have to pay return shipping and a possible restocking fee, might just hang on to the 440Source housing if I decide to put this 440 in a car later on... it was only $100
Any competent radiator shop can swap sides with the outlet in about 15 minutes flat.
 
Any competent radiator shop can swap sides with the outlet in about 15 minutes flat.

HMMMmmm I didn't realize that was an option, I'll keep that in mind. I can still run the old iron WP housing the only downside is the 15 lbs or so extra weight. And I guess less flow but I'm not too concerned about it. We'll see once things get closer to that point.
 
HMMMmmm I didn't realize that was an option, I'll keep that in mind. I can still run the old iron WP housing the only downside is the 15 lbs or so extra weight. And I guess less flow but I'm not too concerned about it. We'll see once things get closer to that point.
You're worried about 15 extra pounds in a tow truck?
 
You're worried about 15 extra pounds in a tow truck?

No I'm not lol that's what I'm saying, I'm leaning towards running the iron housing that way I can keep the current radiator unmodified... so what if it weighs 15 pounds more and has slightly less flow. I suppose I shouldn't have bought the 440source one after all but I'll just hang on to it.
 
Just an update, got my pistons a couple weeks ago and the 440source connecting rods and head bolts last week. I went with Hastings "premium ductile" moly-coated rings, was a bit worried since they were out of stock at the time but I got them a few days ago. I realized pretty much all the parts I'm buying for this build are Made in USA which is always good.

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Figured I'd bring this back instead of starting a new thread. Now that the weather is finally warming up I'm getting back around to making progress on this build. If it's nice this weekend I'm gonna clean and paint the block and maybe install the crank if I have time.

I've been seeing a lot of discussion (some of which I've participated in) about bad-quality hydraulic FT lifters wiping out cams in recent months. I wasn't sure what to do for my engine until today I decided to check Hughes Engines and noticed they sell hydraulic FT lifters "Made in USA" by Hylift-Johnson. You guys think they would be a safe choice? And what about the cams themselves, I'd be tempted to take them up on their guarantee but I have to purchase all the valvetrain components from them in one order.

If not I'm gonna just bite the bullet and go hyd roller. I might not be opposed to going solid FT but the extra expense of adjustable rockers and the geometry kit to get them in the right place seems like more trouble/cost than it's worth... is it? I'm not afraid of adjusting valve lash once in a while... also this is for a tow rig and the majority of off-the-shelf solid cams I see are way too radical for my application. Total cost for solid FT cam+lifters+rockers+geometry kit is about on par with cost for roller lifters and cam from Hughes.

Another question, I had my machine shop send the crank out for balancing with the 440source rods and Icon pistons. These rods are set up for press-fit pins; should I attempt to hang the pistons myself or just take them back to the machine shop and have them do it? I'm leaning towards taking them in because I have none of the equipment for hanging pistons on rods and I'm leary about overheating the small ends on these nice brand-new rods.
 
Figured I'd bring this back instead of starting a new thread. Now that the weather is finally warming up I'm getting back around to making progress on this build. If it's nice this weekend I'm gonna clean and paint the block and maybe install the crank if I have time.

I've been seeing a lot of discussion (some of which I've participated in) about bad-quality hydraulic FT lifters wiping out cams in recent months. I wasn't sure what to do for my engine until today I decided to check Hughes Engines and noticed they sell hydraulic FT lifters "Made in USA" by Hylift-Johnson. You guys think they would be a safe choice? And what about the cams themselves, I'd be tempted to take them up on their guarantee but I have to purchase all the valvetrain components from them in one order.

If not I'm gonna just bite the bullet and go hyd roller. I might not be opposed to going solid FT but the extra expense of adjustable rockers and the geometry kit to get them in the right place seems like more trouble/cost than it's worth... is it? I'm not afraid of adjusting valve lash once in a while... also this is for a tow rig and the majority of off-the-shelf solid cams I see are way too radical for my application. Total cost for solid FT cam+lifters+rockers+geometry kit is about on par with cost for roller lifters and cam from Hughes.

Another question, I had my machine shop send the crank out for balancing with the 440source rods and Icon pistons. These rods are set up for press-fit pins; should I attempt to hang the pistons myself or just take them back to the machine shop and have them do it? I'm leaning towards taking them in because I have none of the equipment for hanging pistons on rods and I'm leary about overheating the small ends on these nice brand-new rods.
Knowing from doing them daily at work. if you aren't set up to do it, with the kiln & pin stop, I'd send them back. It can be a pita even with professional equipment.
 
Best to have the pins professionally fitted. The proper device is an induction heater, looks a bit like a toaster, that heats the rod eye to the correct heat so that the pin slides through.
 
Thanks guys, I'll plan on taking them in to get 'hung' (sounds dirty lmao). I may not have top-of-the-line parts but they still weren't cheap and I'd be PISSED if I messed up one of these rods or pistons.

Any thoughts on the cam/lifter dilemma? Has anyone used Hughes HFT cams in a big block before? NOT counting the "Whiplash" series lol I have zero interest in those. Need something that will give the best idle-5000-ish powerband, sound be damned lol it's gonna sound good anyway being a healthy fresh 9:1 440 with long-tube headers (and I'm debating installing cutouts heh heh).
 
Just curious, what roller cams were you looking at? Seems to me that might be a good option.
 
Just curious, what roller cams were you looking at? Seems to me that might be a good option.

Not any specific ones really, just looking at prices from a few companies like Hughes, Howards and Lunati. I'm thinking something along the lines of this: https://www.hughesengines.com/Index...&level2=Um9sbGVyLCBIeWRyYXVsaWM=&partid=30760

What sucks is the total cost for the roller cam, lifters and springs would be over $1000. If I stayed with flat-tappet it would be more like $400.
 
Get ahold of Mike Jones . He has a custom grind for towing and torque .
Wont cost much more than an off the shelf cam .
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Build a blueprinted 440HP engine, but get compression to 9.2:1. Put Comp's version of the Road Runner cam in it. It has real Chrysler lobes and they narrowed the LSA to 110, from the factory 115. I like the Weiand Action Plus intake. I have one on the 351M in my 75 F250 and it pulls like a ***** in church.
Ok Rusty I give, just what exactly is a ***** pulling in church? Hehehehe
 
Not any specific ones really, just looking at prices from a few companies like Hughes, Howards and Lunati. I'm thinking something along the lines of this: https://www.hughesengines.com/Index...&level2=Um9sbGVyLCBIeWRyYXVsaWM=&partid=30760

What sucks is the total cost for the roller cam, lifters and springs would be over $1000. If I stayed with flat-tappet it would be more like $400.


Yeah, usually right around $1,000 and most have too much lift for this type of application. The possibility of lobe/lifter failure with the flat tappet really bothers me though.
 
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