Another 318 Build... Surprise!

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Wayne's World

My World, My Universe, My Garage
Joined
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Location
MD
Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing™ Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne
 
That build will not require the forged 273 crank. The factory cast 318 crank will take a lot more power than your build will give it.
 
That build will not require the forged 273 crank. The factory cast 318 crank will take a lot more power than your build will give it.

Yes, I agree but I already have it and the rods machined and ready to go. I could sell it with the 273 block assembly and pay for the cast crank and rods to be reworked.
 
Yes, I agree but I already have it and the rods machined and ready to go. I could sell it with the 273 block assembly and pay for the cast crank and rods to be reworked.
Honestly, if you get a good 318 I wouldn't think twice about using the 318 crank, rods, and even (watch out!!) the factory rod bolts. I've been beating on 318's (probably 35+ of them) for about.... 35 years and have yet to have one give way. But, I mean you have them and if you want to use them, they'd work great.
 
One question before I tell you to throw that Summit cam as hard as you can into the ocean on a charter fishing boat out on the shelf…..

What’s is your gear ratio & tire size?


Take that Summit cam and throw it as far as you can into the ocean on your next deep sea fishing adventure when your out by the shelf. It’ll do you good.
 
Honestly, if you get a good 318 I wouldn't think twice about using the 318 crank, rods, and even (watch out!!) the factory rod bolts. I've been beating on 318's (probably 35+ of them) for about.... 35 years and have yet to have one give way. But, I mean you have them and if you want to use them, they'd work great.
Get a 4-speed with 355 gears and hold third gear to the end of the quarter mile LOL.. he may not lose a crank, but the rod bearing may not like it LOL.. ask me how I know...
 
With your intake, carb, and exhaust manifolds, use the smaller of the two cams. The 273 crank may not work with your converter if the crank register doesn't match. You may want to check that before you decide. 904 converters after '67 have a bigger button diameter than the '67 and earlier ones.
 
i wouldnt do all that work and spend all that money to help it breath better then cork it up with manifolds or shorty **** headers...dwb
 
Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing™ Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne
With the cylinder heads being milled 0.050", did you have the intake surface of the cylinder head milled as well? For every 0.010" milled from the cylinder head and or the deck surface, .0095" has to be milled off the intake surface of the cylinder head in order to maintain proper port alignment. When you ordered your push rods did you figure in the heads being milled, block decked, thinner head gaskets?
 
I would not run the Summit cam. There was a show that used that cam on a dyno and it made very little power over a stock 360 cam. 73 up 340/360 manifolds can be found relatively cheap on Ebay or on here. I'm running them in my Duster with TTI head pipes and Summit dual exhaust.
I have a brand new. 060 318 that's been balanced and blue printed. Edelbrock heads, rpm intake. Roller rockers, erson cam stc... Only run on the engine stand. I'll sell it complete or keep the top end for myself, and just sell the bottoman end. I'm located in Delaware. PM me if you are interested
 
With your intake, carb, and exhaust manifolds, use the smaller of the two cams. The 273 crank may not work with your converter if the crank register doesn't match. You may want to check that before you decide. 904 converters after '67 have a bigger button diameter than the '67 and earlier ones.
The converter was used with the crank.
 
With the cylinder heads being milled 0.050", did you have the intake surface of the cylinder head milled as well? For every 0.010" milled from the cylinder head and or the deck surface, .0095" has to be milled off the intake surface of the cylinder head in order to maintain proper port alignment. When you ordered your push rods did you figure in the heads being milled, block decked, thinner head gaskets?
Yes, everything was done to assure correct fit. This motor was already built but a cam bearing install problem mandated it coming apart so I'm going to add some cubes.
 
As far as swapping to a 360...
My concern with the 360 is using my converter, balance issues or what will I need to do.
The lower hose on my radiator is on the DS so I use the 273 water pump. Its a nice stock looking stamped upper aluminum rad and I don't want to buy another one.
The big thing is my custom set up for my AC. Will my 273 crank pulley fit the 360 balancer? and will it line up to the water pump? I really don't want to have to redesign the system.
 
The converter was used with the crank.
Sounds like you have a small button converter. If you go with a 318 or 360 crank, you'll need a reducer bushing to use your converter. You may also have to do something with balance weights to use a 360, unless you zero balance the bottom end. If you zero balance the 360, you can use your 273 balancer, pulley, timing cover, water pump combo without having to modify anything. A 318 is internally balanced, so, no balance issues there. Your 273 parts will be a bolt-on there too....just add the crank bushing for your converter.
 
Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing™ Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne
Engine aside, if you plan on anything that will put even a little more abuse to this car get away from the 904 and fit a 727 in it, you will be glad you did. Nothing wrong with a 904 in a A or E but a B which includes Coronet is asking a lot from it. It take less power to run a 904 but you will be rebuilding it more frequently! Your not spending much on engine mods so put money in a bigger trans. A lot of B's were built with the little engines and transmission. and were expected to pull trailers and failed. Do yourself a favor and use a 727 with the correct driveshaft, you will be glad you did!
 
Yes, everything was done to assure correct fit. This motor was already built but a cam bearing install problem mandated it coming apart so I'm going to add some cubes.
Post #1 says zero about a stroker so the overbore will only net you about 5 cubes, which at an increase of just 1.56%. really amounts to as good as nothing.

IMO, you are about to build an ugly combo.
IMO you should make a list of what has already been done, and a list of what bolt-ons you have already purchased;
then let some of the guys see if they can straighten it out for you.
IMO, the low-gear 904 and 3000stall convertor will be fine because the 66 Coronet looks a lot heavier than it is. The 3.23s will be fine, for at least a little while, if you build your engine right (see below).
There has been a lot of scuttlebutt on FABO lately, by very knowledgeable members, about the 302s NOT being the best choice, and especially with the mods you are considering.
IMO, as for the cams you are considering; those two are diametrically opposed, and should not even be in the same paragraph never mind the same sentence.
IMO, all in all, your selections seem to point to a lack of knowledge/understanding, and or direction. Please, I urge you to reconsider and let the guys help you straighten out what is IMO, rapidly becoming a mess.
 
Post #1 says zero about a stroker so the overbore will only net you about 5 cubes, which at an increase of just 1.56%. really amounts to as good as nothing.

IMO, you are about to build an ugly combo.
IMO you should make a list of what has already been done, and a list of what bolt-ons you have already purchased;
then let some of the guys see if they can straighten it out for you.
IMO, the low-gear 904 and 3000stall convertor will be fine because the 66 Coronet looks a lot heavier than it is. The 3.23s will be fine, for at least a little while, if you build your engine right (see below).
There has been a lot of scuttlebutt on FABO lately, by very knowledgeable members, about the 302s NOT being the best choice, and especially with the mods you are considering.
IMO, as for the cams you are considering; those two are diametrically opposed, and should not even be in the same paragraph never mind the same sentence.
IMO, all in all, your selections seem to point to a lack of knowledge/understanding, and or direction. Please, I urge you to reconsider and let the guys help you straighten out what is IMO, rapidly becoming a mess.

If you reread the OP the mention about adding cubes is going from a 273 to the 318. The summit cam is already in the 273, the second cam would be in the 318 or maybe the 360 since I'm leaning towards this idea. As far as the 302 heads go, yes there are better options if you choose to spend the money. The point with me using these is I already have a completed set with the larger valves, ported, cut down, new guides, springs.
 
I knew a guy years ago that had a 71 Cuda, not a clone but a true Cuda that had the pistol grip shifter and 4 speed with 3.91 gears in it. He insisted on running the factory exhaust manifolds and factory mufflers, wouldn't run anything other cam other than a Comp Cams 305. Since it was clutch car it wasn't all that bad to drive around town. He loved to start out in 3rd gear from the lights then shift to 4th without even using the clutch. He went through a lot of Ujoints and tires.
 
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