WWFD? (What Would FABO DO??)

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clementine

Flight risk
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Hellooooo FABO!

I have a 20x20 metal shed roof that I have purchased some heater wire to affix to the under side as last winter there was a snow.....then rain that put a lot of weight on the structure making it deflect about 16". The pitch is slight so snow tends to hang on pretty good. What would the smart people of FABO use to stick that wire under? Magnets? Foil tape? Or.....should I lay it on top??????

Thank you!!!

EDIT: it is open underneath. carport over driveway. no insulation but easy access.
 
This will be interesting........I would suggest A/C duct (foil) tape, it's extremely sticky but not sure how the glue would react to the heat (although with the cold snow it shouldn't get too hot)?? Then there's alway those thin sheet metal wiring metal ducts/channels ?
 
[ Then there's alway those thin sheet metal wiring metal ducts/channels ?[/QUOTE]

Que?
 
Something like this but smaller and thinnner. But I'm not sure how you would attach it, I know you don't want to screw it on there??

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...face-Raceway-Channel-in-White-700WH/100144606

What about the stuff they use under the flooring (for heating) on houses up North.

It's the "attaching" part that's hard to figure out???

You said it was a "20x20 metal shed roof" ...those have ribs that hold up the roof panels. Can't you snake the wire around the ribs so that the heating wire warms the ribs an thereby melting the snow/ice??? Kinda like stringing Xmas lights!!!
 
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Its this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6WZHBD/?tag=fabo03-20

Im thinkin it goes on top.
Ya, adhesives dont like the hot/cold situation.
It just would look ugly, but who's lookin at the top?
It would look uglier hanging off the bottom with the roof caved in though.
I find it very humerus that the guy in south Texas is the only one responding....You rule Gilbert!!

I also find it funny that I had to spell check "humorus" and still looks wrong.:lol:
 
Its this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6WZHBD/?tag=fabo03-20

Im thinkin it goes on top.
Ya, adhesives dont like the hot/cold situation.
It just would look ugly, but who's lookin at the top?
It would look uglier hanging off the bottom with the roof caved in though.
I find it very humerus that the guy in south Texas is the only one responding....You rule Gilbert!!

I also find it funny that I had to spell check "humorus" and still looks wrong.:lol:
Oh OK>>>>I thought you had that bare wire heating stuff......... My idea still holds. Use tie wraps to bind it to the reinforcement ribs on the underside, hope they produce enough heat to melt the roof snow from the underside?? We in S. Texas are no experts in snow melting methods!!!!!!:mad::mob::poke::realcrazy::soapbox::steering:..............BUT WE ARE WORLD CLASS JERRY RIGGERS!!!!!!
 
I got that on my shingled roof
It came with clips that hooked unto the shingle

How about tacwelding some 1.5 inch roofing nails to hang it on?
 
I got that on my shingled roof
It came with clips that hooked unto the shingle

How about tacwelding some 1.5 inch roofing nails to hang it on?
A little touch up paint and tension on the ends could do the trick!
Thanks DIY!
 
A little touch up paint and tension on the ends could do the trick!
Thanks DIY!
There you see...........down here in S. Texas where I live 3 blocks from the ocean you would never ever weld on any roof component. Stuff corrodes around here even if you paint it and undercoat it or powercoat it. I had a brand new set of Jet Hot coated headers, they lasted about 6 months before they started to corrode.....that was waited money!!
 
Thinking out of the box.........Would re enforcing the roof joists be an option? I think that's what I would do instead of dicking around with heating wire. That stuff was designed to help with ice dams due to shitty attic insulation. BTW......I live half way to the North Pole:D
 
Thinking out of the box.........Would re enforcing the roof joists be an option? I think that's what I would do instead of dicking around with heating wire. That stuff was designed to help with ice dams due to shitty attic insulation. BTW......I live half way to the North Pole:D


I did double up the header as a result of the last incident. I called the company and they actually admitted the header design was flawed. They did provide extra material to beef it up after incident. I had called them when I was putting it up, but they said it was correct.

I was checking the laundry at midnight and saw the deflection. the neighbors probably didnt appreciate the jacking and drilling that occurred at 1 am. I should have lagged it to the building from the start but again the manufacturer said it was a stand alone product. So, this is probably over-kill, but I dont want to worry about it if I travel. Id put it on a switch at first until I can figure out how to either do it remotely or timer or put an extra home security camera on it or a conglomeration of ideas.

But, you are correct in that I haven't seen how it will react to the extra header/bolted to garage at this point. My duster was under it at the time and it kinda gave me a headache just thinking about trying to get the manufacturer to take any responsibility for a defective design. I cant prove that the snow load was under what they 'recommend' even IF their design was flawed. Its just not worth it. So........over-kill!!
 
I did double up the header as a result of the last incident. I called the company and they actually admitted the header design was flawed. They did provide extra material to beef it up after incident. I had called them when I was putting it up, but they said it was correct.

I was checking the laundry at midnight and saw the deflection. the neighbors probably didnt appreciate the jacking and drilling that occurred at 1 am. I should have lagged it to the building from the start but again the manufacturer said it was a stand alone product. So, this is probably over-kill, but I dont want to worry about it if I travel. Id put it on a switch at first until I can figure out how to either do it remotely or timer or put an extra home security camera on it or a conglomeration of ideas.

But, you are correct in that I haven't seen how it will react to the extra header/bolted to garage at this point. My duster was under it at the time and it kinda gave me a headache just thinking about trying to get the manufacturer to take any responsibility for a defective design. I cant prove that the snow load was under what they 'recommend' even IF their design was flawed. Its just not worth it. So........over-kill!!
Any pics of the building?
 
I did double up the header as a result of the last incident. I called the company and they actually admitted the header design was flawed. They did provide extra material to beef it up after incident. I had called them when I was putting it up, but they said it was correct.

I was checking the laundry at midnight and saw the deflection. the neighbors probably didnt appreciate the jacking and drilling that occurred at 1 am. I should have lagged it to the building from the start but again the manufacturer said it was a stand alone product. So, this is probably over-kill, but I dont want to worry about it if I travel. Id put it on a switch at first until I can figure out how to either do it remotely or timer or put an extra home security camera on it or a conglomeration of ideas.

But, you are correct in that I haven't seen how it will react to the extra header/bolted to garage at this point. My duster was under it at the time and it kinda gave me a headache just thinking about trying to get the manufacturer to take any responsibility for a defective design. I cant prove that the snow load was under what they 'recommend' even IF their design was flawed. Its just not worth it. So........over-kill!!
It's funny (not humorous...too hard to spell).. where I live we have to reinforce all our roofs (hurricane ties) so they don't get ripped off by hurricanes and high winds. We NEVER have to worry about a roof caving in unless a hurricane uproots a tree and the tree falls on the roof!! LOL. In fact we have to use metal ties to every piece of wood from the foundation all the way up to the roof rafters. The city inspector has to verify all metal ties before you can close up the outer and inner walls!
 
Any pics of the building?
Never mind the chebbies. Admittedly they are my daily's.....and pretty cheap.
20200929_173608.jpg
So I have doubled the header and bolted up against the garage and added 45* supports on the right. the ribs run downhill and could use as supports that I could tuck under running parrallel with the garage, but there would be drooping of the wire if I didnt attach I feel. I know the right hand side footings have much to be desired.....its on the list. Those rafters are 'C' channel. The parrallel to building runners are 'hat' channel.

I should have posted pictures earlier.....I know better.:lol:

I think I would run wire up/down hill, but maybe Im thinking about that wrong.
 
Never mind the chebbies. Admittedly they are my daily's.....and pretty cheap.View attachment 1715827242So I have doubled the header and bolted up against the garage and added 45* supports on the right. the ribs run downhill and could use as supports that I could tuck under running parrallel with the garage, but there would be drooping of the wire if I didnt attach I feel. I know the right hand side footings have much to be desired.....its on the list. Those rafters are 'C' channel. The parrallel to building runners are 'hat' channel.

I should have posted pictures earlier.....I know better.:lol:

I think I would run wire up/down hill, but maybe Im thinking about that wrong.
Around here, they place heat tape/wire about 3FT from the edge of the roof eaves in a zig zag pattern (45 degrees up and down). That way, they get about 3 FT of the edge snow and ice free. So, a zig zag pattern maybe best. This is done here to prevent snow and ice from dropping off of the roof edges and onto people on the sidewalk below.
 
Around here, they place heat tape/wire about 3FT from the edge of the roof eaves in a zig zag pattern (45 degrees up and down). That way, they get about 3 FT of the edge snow and ice free. So, a zig zag pattern maybe best. This is done here to prevent snow and ice from dropping off of the roof edges and onto people on the sidewalk below.
Yes. and from my limited understanding that last 3' or so is not insulated from underneath causing the 'drift' over the eave. So basically this is a huge eave , ya? I may not have enough length to zig zag but I could get another bundle. It only sees snow once a year for like two weeks, but its heavy stuff because of the rain that inevitably comes after.

Good idea, thank you!
 
Its this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6WZHBD/?tag=fabo03-20

Im thinkin it goes on top.
Ya, adhesives dont like the hot/cold situation.
It just would look ugly, but who's lookin at the top?
It would look uglier hanging off the bottom with the roof caved in though.
I find it very humerus that the guy in south Texas is the only one responding....You rule Gilbert!!

I also find it funny that I had to spell check "humorus" and still looks wrong.:lol:

That's because you used the wrong word. The "humerus" (which you still spelled wrong) is the large bone in the upper arm (I know because I broke mine when I was 15). the word you want is "humorous"...
 
That's because you used the wrong word. The "humerus" (which you still spelled wrong) is the large bone in the upper arm (I know because I broke mine when I was 15). the word you want is "humorous"...
Thats funny....not your break. My spelling.
 
Yes. and from my limited understanding that last 3' or so is not insulated from underneath causing the 'drift' over the eave. So basically this is a huge eave , ya? I may not have enough length to zig zag but I could get another bundle. It only sees snow once a year for like two weeks, but its heavy stuff because of the rain that inevitably comes after.

Good idea, thank you!
if i understand it correctly, the zigzag pattern also creates a V shape for the melted snow run off to slide down
 
What's your budget? If you can afford it, tear the carport out and throw it in the ditch. Then just come off the roof of the house and extend it on down and out over where the carport is. Problem solved, no heat required since you now have a much steeper roof pitch. You could probably do it in metal like the carport already is so you could even utilize some of it. Get busy. You're welcome.
 
What's your budget? If you can afford it, tear the carport out and throw it in the ditch. Then just come off the roof of the house and extend it on down and out over where the carport is. Problem solved, no heat required since you now have a much steeper roof pitch. You could probably do it in metal like the carport already is so you could even utilize some of it. Get busy. You're welcome.

I feel almost accepted now that I have received RRR love.....sniff.....thank you! Thank you, thank you , thankyou!!!:lol:

That roof would have been so high up it would have been useless inspector. AND all funds are being diverted to barracuda project at this time.:):rolleyes:
 
I feel almost accepted now that I have received RRR love.....sniff.....thank you! Thank you, thank you , thankyou!!!:lol:

That roof would have been so high up it would have been useless inspector. AND all funds are being diverted to barracuda project at this time.:):rolleyes:
Well, it was a thought. lol
 
Its this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6WZHBD/?tag=fabo03-20

Im thinkin it goes on top.
Ya, adhesives dont like the hot/cold situation.
It just would look ugly, but who's lookin at the top?
It would look uglier hanging off the bottom with the roof caved in though.
I find it very humerus that the guy in south Texas is the only one responding....You rule Gilbert!!

I also find it funny that I had to spell check "humorus" and still looks wrong.:lol:

The stuff you bought says in the description For use on inclined, tab-shingle roofs and in downspouts and gutters only. Not for use on metal roofs. I can't see that stuff melting off snow and not creating ice instead. Anyway Looks like the roof is pretty flat, maybe if adventurous enough buy a pair of magnetic work boots, clear a spot and shovel it off... I know it sounds crazy but you should see some of the roofs I have seen shoveled off in New York in The Adirondack Mountains after 6-10 feet of snow builds up...
 
Another option is to put taller legs on the side against the house. You could also lower it a foot or so on the outside. You have the room. Make it a taller pitch.
 
Another option is to put taller legs on the side against the house. You could also lower it a foot or so on the outside. You have the room. Make it a taller pitch.
That would help a lot but not much if it's on the North side of that building.
 
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