Convertible top switch removal

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Brian Owens

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Recently got back into mopars! Just picked up a 67 Dart GT convertible great car. Just got the car. Lowered the top 2x. First time no issues (that I noticed) the 2nd time I tried to operate the top, i hit switch to put top down and it got stuck part way. After jiggling switch around for about 15 minutes I was able to get it to close (thank GOD). I suspect that the issue may be in the switch itself, or at least that's probably the first place to start.

So my QUESTION is how do I remove the switch/ switch Beazle so I can see if the switch is bad? I ordered up a new one from the convertible top guys because my switch seems roached af. All help greatly appreciated! I can't figure out how to remove it from my dash!
 
The switch is held on by the round chrome bezel on the outside. The bezel screws on to threads in the switch. Unscrew the bezel and the switch will come out the back side.

I made a tool that fits inside the grooves of the bezel so they can be easily removed/installed. It's basically just a piece of conduit that I put in the mill and machined away the edge until I was left with a couple of "pins" sticking out. You could do the same thing with a hacksaw...it would just take longer.
 
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There are removal tools for sale at places like Classic Ind if you are not as talented.
MF1742 - 1962-74 Mopar; Washer, Wiper, Headlight Dash Switch Bezel Nut Removal Tool

If you use a screwdriver you WILL damage the bezel.

67 (especially Convertibles) have a lot of unique 1 year only parts

There were only about 12,000 convertibles built 67, 68, 69 so finding donor parts cars is next to impossible.

DO NOT TOSS OR DISTROY ANY PART.

many parts can be restored. The top switch is one of them.

And by the way, welcome to the 67 Dart GT Convertible Family.

Post some photos and details of your car.
 
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You ordered a switch from the convertible top guys? Can you be more specific? That switch is difficult to find and as far as I know hasn't been available for years!?!
 
JS Restorations rebuilt all my switches but he just retired. Is anyone else rebuilding switches?
 
You ordered a switch from the convertible top guys? Can you be more specific? That switch is difficult to find and as far as I know hasn't been available for years
I haven't looked but I would be 100% sure it is a generic switch. I looked some time ago and this is what they had. (Dont know what the OP bought)
Screenshot_20220114-091129.png
 
Like with headlights you can run relays from the switch. You would need to run a dedicated heavy power source back to the pump then install relays that use the switch output to energize the relays
 
Crackedback on this site makes relay kits for convertible tops. I have one of his headlight relay kits too. I mounted the convertible relays back by the pump.
20200718_082659.jpg
 
First time no issues (that I noticed) the 2nd time I tried to operate the top, i hit switch to put top down and it got stuck part way. After jiggling switch around for about 15 minutes I was able to get it to close (thank GOD). I suspect that the issue may be in the switch itself, or at least that's probably the first place to start
BTW, you might just have a bad connection on the switch.

Note that there are screw terminals on the back to the cir breaker.

Screenshot_20220114-103017.png
 
I haven't looked but I would be 100% sure it is a generic switch. I looked some time ago and this is what they had. (Dont know what the OP bought)View attachment 1715852772

Like others have said the original switch is made from unobtainium (not available :) ) and the switch shown WILL work and IS rated at 50 AMPs. I'd also STRONGLY suggest (minimally) adding a 50 AMP circuit breaker back in to the line as that is what the factory did with that sidecar module mounted to the original switch. If you JUST use the switch, no circuit breakers or relays (actually a better suggestion) you are asking for a dash fire. These wires and connectors are 50 years old now and were never intended to last this long.
 
Like others have said the original switch is made from unobtainium (not available :) ) and the switch shown WILL work and IS rated at 50 AMPs. I'd also STRONGLY suggest (minimally) adding a 50 AMP circuit breaker back in to the line as that is what the factory did with that sidecar module mounted to the original switch. If you JUST use the switch, no circuit breakers or relays (actually a better suggestion) you are asking for a dash fire. These wires and connectors are 50 years old now and were never intended to last this long.
Exactly! If you know anything about electronics there is a spike when first turned on, that is what will fry the harness!
 
adding a 50 AMP circuit breaker back in to the line as that is what the factory did with that sidecar module mounted to the original switch
I think you mean 30 amp, (clearly visible on the photo i posted). Even 30 amp is most likely pushing the max rating of 12awg wire.
 
Crackedback on this site makes relay kits for convertible tops. I have one of his headlight relay kits too. I mounted the convertible relays back by the pump.
Just ran across this. The late 1990's Mustang conv motor-pumps bolt in place and look identical. They have relays near the motor because wired differently, with one coil where current flow reverses. Early Mopar motors have 2 coils, each flowing to ground, with one energized to go up and one to reverse. Besides flipping the current, the relays take current load off the valuable dash switch. I used one but w/ 2 Bosch relays under-dash so I didn't have to run a new power wire to the rear.

If the relays are at the rear, your thick factory red and yellow wires would now just flow tiny coil currents from the switch. Is nicer for less dash clutter. For that, I would double-up the red and yellow for power and run a new 3-conductor small cable for the logic wires from the switch (or 4 wires? would have to draw it out).
 
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