furrystump
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Interesting read, thanks!
Help with my first engine build (5.9 Magnum)
- Thread starter ValleyRat
- Start date
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ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone, I decided to go with the Hughes 1199 spring kit. Camshaft and re-ring kit are also on their way.
I'm going to attempt doing the cam bearings myself, looking for a tool locally to rent now. Hopefully Oriely's or Napa can come through. I will post an update soon with the progress! My plan is to order 2 cam bearing sets... just incase... you learn by making mistakes right? Lol...
Thinking ahead, I have heard that some people wash their block with soap and water to remove dirt and grime, then quickly blow it out with compressed air. Is this a safe practice? I don't mind doing it, however I feel like it would cause flash rusting? Have any of you done this with success? All my local machine shops are booked out over 2 months and aren't taking on any jobs, even for hot tanking...
I'm going to attempt doing the cam bearings myself, looking for a tool locally to rent now. Hopefully Oriely's or Napa can come through. I will post an update soon with the progress! My plan is to order 2 cam bearing sets... just incase... you learn by making mistakes right? Lol...
Thinking ahead, I have heard that some people wash their block with soap and water to remove dirt and grime, then quickly blow it out with compressed air. Is this a safe practice? I don't mind doing it, however I feel like it would cause flash rusting? Have any of you done this with success? All my local machine shops are booked out over 2 months and aren't taking on any jobs, even for hot tanking...
Yes it’s safe.
It may flash rust if your not drying and giving it a coat of oil in a reasonable amount of time. The crappier the metal, the quicker the flash rust come in. I’ve seen crap metal flash rust before the water stops running. I’ve seen good metal not do anything for an hour+.
Been there done that.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I wash every block fresh from the machine shop with hot soapy water. Blow dry and apply oil to machined surfaces. The other surfaces get brake clean or acetone prior to paint prep.
I used Easy Off oven cleaner on my K-member and transmission. Worked excellent. I'll probably get lambasted for even mentioning UTG but he has a few videos on cleaning, prepping and painting an engine block. I thought it was pretty good. There are others out there.
But it works, can’t argue what works.
I thought that video was interesting. I'm gonna try his drill on my magnum that I'm working on. I bought the paint and primer (can't argue with the price!). We'll see how it looks. Gotta be better than spray bombing.
mopar65
Well-Known Member
My 2000 360 magnum has KB107 pistons in it. With those pistions, felpro 1008 head gaskets and 60cc trickflow heads. I am right at 11.1 compression. I race it on 93 pump gas. To the op you have to make sure you gap the rings like it says in the instructions. But my enginr has been together for 4 years now and has seen tons of 7000 rpm passes and I havent had any problems out of the pistions . It's been a while but I think the last time I looked the KB107 were around $320 a set on summits website. Also speedpro makes a set of pistions, but I don't remember what the part number for them is
Did you have to re-balance your engine with the KB107's? I am using Speed pro H655CP's but they are factory replacement with no increase in compression.
mopar65
Well-Known Member
I will have to ask my friend. He built the short block. But I don't think he balanced it. My engine at first was built for a claimer class.
furrystump
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With the cam bearings, I bought the tool and like a surgeon meticulously installed the new bearings. Not a knick! Not a scratch! Go to slide the cam in and………NO! Won’t fit, magnums might be different, but LA’s have a reputation for cams not fitting with new bearings. You can have a skilled machinist “fix” the issue or you can do what a bunch of people, including me, do. You take an old cam core and slot the bearing surfaces on an angle with a cut off disc. Then lube it up and turn it as you push it in. Taking it out frequently and cleaning the grooves out. Repeat until it slides in and turns relatively easily. Made me want to puke, but works fine. Don’t sand bearings, it you see a high spot you can scrape it very carefully with a knife.
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ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the continued replies everyone, it’s all great information for me!
I did some cleaning on the block today after work and pulled the crank out. Bearings didn’t look too bad, but on the #2 bearing cap I found a scrape that I could catch my nail on, so I’ll be purchasing a new set. Made my decision easy!
Crank looks okay, no major scratches that I can feel. Is it okay to reuse the crank without machine work with a new set of bearings?
Cam came in today, and the cam bearing tool is on its way. I might able to give the block a good wash this weekend if it warms up enough, still a little chilly up here in Alaska…
I did some cleaning on the block today after work and pulled the crank out. Bearings didn’t look too bad, but on the #2 bearing cap I found a scrape that I could catch my nail on, so I’ll be purchasing a new set. Made my decision easy!
Crank looks okay, no major scratches that I can feel. Is it okay to reuse the crank without machine work with a new set of bearings?
Cam came in today, and the cam bearing tool is on its way. I might able to give the block a good wash this weekend if it warms up enough, still a little chilly up here in Alaska…
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
The crank needs to be mic’d and at the very least correctly polished. If you don’t mic it, you have no clue if it’s round or straight.
He just needs to send it off to the machine shop and they can mic it.
It probably needs to be cut under size , the journals look a little rough for my liking.
Ironracer
Gearhead
A 5000 tight? For a driver? Dammmmm they must have gotten em really tight!
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yup. Right until you stand on the gas. Then it’s anything but tight.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Man, that's Brutal! I've got a B@M Holeshot, had it for many years.. when I built the 340, and spent 300 and the trans shop to go through the 727 that was sitting for years ( and he missed the shift shaft seal) he wanted to see a new converter for a warranty. I took the Holeshit down, had it cut open.... guy worked there said " I feel bad charging you, I changed a Thrust Washer that had minimal wear" ... wish I could have had em put some extra stitches in it
ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
Some days go better than others. 7 exhaust studs snapped off in the heads. Luckily, they were still sticking out a few inches so I was able to grab them with a pipe wrench and back them out… except the last one, snapped off flush, fought me for a few hours but I finally got it out. Welded a couple dozen nuts on trying to break it free.
That’s a lot of patience.
ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
Every time I broke a nut off the thought of new aluminum heads became more and more appealing lol.
ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
Little more progress tonight after work. Heads disassembled, will start cleaning tomorrow.
Good luck w/the heads!
ValleyRat
Well-Known Member
No visible cracks, they are a little dirty but looking good so far! Feeling lucky about that, there isn't a whole lot of meat between the seats on these motors...
No, not at all, but they did (IIRC) come with 2.02’s in the R/T version.
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