Light bulb chart

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Anyone using led's in dash lights if so any good ones and any issues.
 
Just say no to LEDs, save yourself the headache,

My C pillar Opera lights in the FB fish are the only ones that are LED.

Two things, the original 110 festoons are near impossible to find regularly and overheated the sockets like crazy.

Second they pull nearly 2.5 amps each! This is a good reason for the LEDS at least in this location.

All other bulbs in my fish are the original type! My dash and more lights up just fine for me with the standard bulbs!
 
Anyone using led's in dash lights if so any good ones and any issues.

See here. Get the good ones and don't faff around with off-brand Chinese trinkets.

The only "gotchya" points are minor: LED means Light Emitting Diode. A diode passes current in only one direction, not both like a filament. So if your car has a single green pilot light that flashes no matter whether you're signalling for a right or left turn, don't put an LED in it. And for the rest of the dash lights, it matters which way round the bulb is installed in the socket (or the socket in the circuit board). If the LED is installed backwards, it won't light when it should. If there are other LEDs in the system (as there are in the dashboard) then just one backwards LED can create weird new paths for electric current that shouldn't be there, causing a no-light or no-light-when-supposed-to or light-when-not-supposed-to situation.

So, fashion a jumper to ground the cluster properly (when installed in the dashboard it grounds via dashboard metal). Install one LED bulb/socket assembly. Try it out to see if it works correctly. If it doesn't, remove it, turn the bulb or the socket (not both!) 180°, and reinstall it so it works. Then move on to the next one: install one more LED bulb/socket assembly and try it out. Proceed this way until all the bulbs are installed and working.

Note the links provided here are for wedge-base bulbs as used in '66-up cars. Legitimate bayonet-base LED bulbs are much scarcer and more costly; easy workaround is to install the '66-up dash bulb sockets for the wedge-base bulbs. They fit right in place of the earlier sockets.
 
See here. Get the good ones and don't faff around with off-brand Chinese trinkets.

The only "gotchya" points are minor: LED means Light Emitting Diode. A diode passes current in only one direction, not both like a filament. So if your car has a single green pilot light that flashes no matter whether you're signalling for a right or left turn, don't put an LED in it. And for the rest of the dash lights, it matters which way round the bulb is installed in the socket (or the socket in the circuit board). If the LED is installed backwards, it won't light when it should. If there are other LEDs in the system (as there are in the dashboard) then just one backwards LED can create weird new paths for electric current that shouldn't be there, causing a no-light or no-light-when-supposed-to or light-when-not-supposed-to situation.

So, fashion a jumper to ground the cluster properly (when installed in the dashboard it grounds via dashboard metal). Install one LED bulb/socket assembly. Try it out to see if it works correctly. If it doesn't, remove it, turn the bulb or the socket (not both!) 180°, and reinstall it so it works. Then move on to the next one: install one more LED bulb/socket assembly and try it out. Proceed this way until all the bulbs are installed and working.

Note the links provided here are for wedge-base bulbs as used in '66-up cars. Legitimate bayonet-base LED bulbs are much scarcer and more costly; easy workaround is to install the '66-up dash bulb sockets for the wedge-base bulbs. They fit right in place of the earlier sockets.
Thanks Dan. As always, great information.
 
I've n

I've noticed that the 158 bulbs in my dash cluster don't illuminate the dash very well at night. Has anybody found a higher wattage bulb that will work in the place of the 158s that won't fry your dash electrics? Thanks.
168's I believe if this chart is right.
158 is a 3.36 watt lamp.
168 is a 4.9 watt lamp.
194 is a 3.8 watt lamp.
 
Always best to check the owners and shop manuals.
Am I saying there are some differences between Classic's chart and what Chrysler listed? Yes.
 
I've noticed that the 158 bulbs in my dash cluster don't illuminate the dash very well at night. Has anybody found a higher wattage bulb that will work in the place of the 158s that won't fry your dash electrics
Remember higher wattage equals more heat.

I fried some trailer light lenses putting higher wattage bulbs in.


Could be your headlight switch rheostat has excess resistance.
 
I had a question about the fender mounted light bulbs. Charts says 330 bulb for my 72 Swinger. I’m trying to convert to LEDs but seems like the 330 LED bulbs are very tiny and don’t fit the socket?

Does anyone know if the 330 bulb is the correct size or am I missing something?

Thanks for the help.

49625B0D-69DB-4B37-B707-E1F1FCCC4E13.jpeg
 
Wanted to add to the thread:

I added the above picture with the LED “330” bulbs which are approx 1/4 long. I was looking for ones that are approx. 1/2 inch long to fit the factory fender mount turn signal socket. Anyone run into vendors only selling these midget bulbs? Anyone know who sells the 1/2 versions in LED?

Screenshot 2023-02-03 at 12.20.19 PM.png
 
Anyone using led's in dash lights if so any good ones and any issues.
eBay has plenty and cheap all are Chinese so why pay to dollar for parts store offerings when u can order plenty cheaper from eBay !!!
I just installed some in a 76 Power wagon if a bulb want Energize pull it out and swap directions.
Mine really helped brighten all gauges up
 
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