Another gauge corrector--cheaper than MeterMatch, 33.00

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67Dart273

67Dart273

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I don't know anything about them. Says "Dolphin", seller is "oldnewparts"

Fuel Sender To Gauge Converter Module Ohm Adjust To any Sender To Gauge | eBay

GaugeCorrector.jpg


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Would the settings be saved if the battery is disconnected? I did not see a battery on the circuit board that might be used for that purpose.
 
It's good to know this is a product that exists, thanks for sharing. Hopefully we can get some reviews from members that try it.
 
toolmanmike said:
It shouldn't matter. You adjust it with the potentiometers. They are manual and not a computer program.
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Not true, that would require a pot for all the ranges. I would have to see the board up close to see how this one works.
You dont need a battery on board to save data anymore, thats old technology. Its all done with nvram, ferro ram etc. Data retention is supposed to be good for a ridiculous amount of time.
 
toolmanmike said:
It shouldn't matter. You adjust it with the potentiometers. They are manual and not a computer program.
Click to expand...

I don't think those are pots, I believe they are switches, which means it must be programmed as opposed to "manually" set with a pot
 
The 5 black things at the top are tactile switches, yes. The blue box at the bottom is the potentiometer which according to the instructions is used to adjust all ranges. Select the range, adjust the pot until gauge reads correct than save the setting. Repeat for all ranges. So its not manual but not a "computer program" either. Its just saving values for each range. It just adds or pulls resistance from whatever the sending unit is reading at a certain range.
Its impossible to know exactly how it works without seeing a schematic or at least knowing what chip is on board.
 
I think the meter match has only four set points & this one has five. That should make it more accurate. Very interesting! About a third the price of a meter match.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
The 5 black things at the top are tactile switches, yes. The blue box at the bottom is the potentiometer which according to the instructions is used to adjust all ranges. Select the range, adjust the pot until gauge reads correct than save the setting. Repeat for all ranges. So its not manual but not a "computer program" either. Its just saving values for each range. It just adds or pulls resistance from whatever the sending unit is reading at a certain range.
Its impossible to know exactly how it works without seeing a schematic or at least knowing what chip is on board.
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"5 Multi Adjustment Switches For Extreme Accuracy" what ever they are.
 
Electronic parts can be put together cheaply, but $33 is almost too cheap. This is one heck of a deal if the quality is good and it will hold up for years. We definitely need some reviews.
 
g413 said:
Electronic parts can be put together cheaply, but $33 is almost too cheap. This is one heck of a deal if the quality is good and it will hold up for years. We definitely need some reviews.
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Well I finally elected to blow 35 bucks and "we'll see............."
 
If it "pulls resistance" from the sender.... I'd like to see that! MOPAR uses 73 empty 10 ohm full on a non linear scale due to tank shape. DOLPHIN is a known by tanks Inc.

Universal Fuel Sender Questions and Troubleshooting

As a manufacturer and uses
  • Dolphin - 0-90 Ohms
Perhaps it doesn't pull resistance at all but allows you to adjust to meet what the mopar sender would show within the range of a GM 0-90 ohm sender. MOPAR tanks were always bottom biased when it came to capacity so the top 1/2 of the tank in height was only a few gallons.
 
I assume this one works like the Meter Match I used on my car. The sender resistance doesn’t matter within reason. When you fill the tank to empty, 1/4, 3/4, and full, you push a button on the meter match to adjust till the gauge reads right at each level. This creates a map of the sender resistance to the fuel gauge position. It looks like this one uses an adjustable resistor for the same function.

Instead of filling the gas tank to different levels, I made a test box that simulated the aftermarket sender resistance at different levels (lazy, don’t like to siphon gas).

This device has to have constant voltage (solid state IVR) supply to work. it won’t work with the stock “flasher” type IVR.

When I bought my Meter Match, they sold two types, one with the IVR supply built in, and one that used the IVR in the car to power the gauge. This one looks like it uses the car IVR.

Interestingly, one of these could be used to do the same thing on a temp or oil gauge.

The simulator box is available for loan if anyone wants it.

1978DC57-7923-44E0-B61B-039641F6ECE0.jpeg
 
Ford and AMC used the same 73-10 range up to a certain year per that website
 
I picked up an Autometer Fuel Bridge over the weekend - FUEL BRIDGE, FUEL SIGNAL ADAPTER FOR AUTOMETER GAUGES

I bought it for 2 reasons; 1. because I drove past the Summit store in Sparks and had to buy something and B. because I liked the idea of a low fuel warning light (someday).

My plan is to siphon my tank using the pickup so I know where empty truly is, then map the readings from there to full while filling it up. Then I can come up with resistance values for E (+2 gallons), 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full. This should give me an accurate gauge reading that matches my tank.

Last step is figuring out a way to feed the adapter the right numbers so I don't have to pull the sender. First thought is dig out the sender I replaced with this piece of junk and use it. Don't feel like creating a science project of resistors to set the values like above. If the values match Mike's creation above, might take him up on his offer of a loan. Time will tell.
 
DionR said:
I picked up an Autometer Fuel Bridge over the weekend - FUEL BRIDGE, FUEL SIGNAL ADAPTER FOR AUTOMETER GAUGES

I bought it for 2 reasons; 1. because I drove past the Summit store in Sparks and had to buy something and B. because I liked the idea of a low fuel warning light (someday).

My plan is to siphon my tank using the pickup so I know where empty truly is, then map the readings from there to full while filling it up. Then I can come up with resistance values for E (+2 gallons), 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full. This should give me an accurate gauge reading that matches my tank.

Last step is figuring out a way to feed the adapter the right numbers so I don't have to pull the sender. First thought is dig out the sender I replaced with this piece of junk and use it. Don't feel like creating a science project of resistors to set the values like above. If the values match Mike's creation above, might take him up on his offer of a loan. Time will tell.
Click to expand...

Looks like the auto meter version of a meter match. Will be interesting to see how it works for you.
 
Got my sending unit mapped.

I ended up pumping the tank dry using the fuel line and hooking to it at the front of the car. I did this to make sure whatever "zero" was, it matched only what the pick up could grab. Then I bought a 1 gallon gas can and filled it to the line each time and attempted to get it empty each time. In the end I think it was closer to .9792 gallons each time, but I do know they were close enough to a consistent amount that it really doesn't matter. And it turned into a bit of a fiasco as the last gallon I tried to put in ended up with a fairly large fuel spill under the car. Best guess is the slow rate I was filling it at allowed the vent to push gas out, but it could be I just have a hole in my tank, too.

Here are the numbers I got.

0 - 70.3
1 - 67.7
2 - 62.4
3 - 58.5
4 - 55.6
5 - 51.1./52.5
6 - 47.1
7 - 42.3
8 - 38.7/38.9
9 - 33.8
10 - 29.4/29.8
11 - 24.9/25
12 - 43/36
13 - 17.7/16.6
14 - 15.9/15.8
15 - 15.3/14.5
15.5 - 14.8

Here is a graph of those number:

Fuel Graph.png


Note that I had some odd readings at the 12th increment mark, no idea why. Hope it doesn't upset anything later and it was just a temporary glitch.

I then smoothed the curve and divided the graph from the 2 gallon mark to the 15.5 gallon mark. This was the range I used for empty to full. This should give me a 2 gallon buffer when I hit empty.

This is what that graph looked like:

Fuel Graph Smoothed.png


The points on that graph ended up as follows:

E - 62.7
1/4 - 50.4
1/2 - 35.1
3/4 - 20.9
F - 14.8

So those are the numbers I am going to use to set my fuel bridge. Now to figure out how to do that.
 
Good work. Your numbers are quite a bit different than mine, which are shown in the picture of my calibration box. This is like due to your 2 gallon offset.

The glitch at 12 is interesting, I assume the red & blue lines represent two different fills? If these are two different fills and it repeats, it could be a fault in the sender.
 
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