How about a little slick tech

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pittsburghracer

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I’m getting my slicks mounted today so I thought I would post up my procedure. Many already know this or it may not be needed for guys that screw their slicks to the rims and run tubes, I don’t. On Mickey Thompson slicks they recommend carefully removing the “mold compound” from the bead without getting it inside. This is my procedure for preparing slicks before mounting. I carefully use laquire thinner on a rag and clean
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all four beads on my slicks. Then I mix up a small mixture of Dawn dish soap and water, heavy on the Dawn. I then take an old sock and soap up the inside walls of both slicks. I do both on one side and flip them over after it drys to do the other side. I do this twice to both slicks and my slicks do not leak like many guys complain about. After all the four inside sidewalls are done twice that part is done. Now I take red scotch right cloth and scuff all four mounting beads. Then I clean the beads with laquire thinner. I then take mine to the tire shop and they coat the beads with “High Tack” brush on sealer with no water used when mounting them. I have the guys inflate them to 15 pounds to push the tire against the rim while the High Tack dries. I’ve run them like this with 1.25 sixty foot times without them spinning and will stay inflated all winter without deflating.
 
Experience on display…..
How many years did it take to establish this routine?


This has been shared for years by many guys and added to over the years. Lots of guys try to take short cuts and end up wondering why their slicks spin and mine don’t. Or go flat in the trailer week to week and I can go all winter not touching mine.
 
This has been shared for years by many guys and added to over the years. Lots of guys try to take short cuts and end up wondering why their slicks spin and mine don’t. Or go flat in the trailer week to week and I can go all winter not touching mine.
One thing I don't have to worry about is tires going flat in the trailer, lol I don't have a trailer
 
I’m getting my slicks mounted today so I thought I would post up my procedure. Many already know this or it may not be needed for guys that screw their slicks to the rims and run tubes, I don’t. On Mickey Thompson slicks they recommend carefully removing the “mold compound” from the bead without getting it inside. This is my procedure for preparing slicks before mounting. I carefully use laquire thinner on a rag and clean View attachment 1715929440 View attachment 1715929441 View attachment 1715929442 all four beads on my slicks. Then I mix up a small mixture of Dawn dish soap and water, heavy on the Dawn. I then take an old sock and soap up the inside walls of both slicks. I do both on one side and flip them over after it drys to do the other side. I do this twice to both slicks and my slicks do not leak like many guys complain about. After all the four inside sidewalls are done twice that part is done. Now I take red scotch right cloth and scuff all four mounting beads. Then I clean the beads with laquire thinner. I then take mine to the tire shop and they coat the beads with “High Tack” brush on sealer with no water used when mounting them. I have the guys inflate them to 15 pounds to push the tire against the rim while the High Tack dries. I’ve run them like this with 1.25 sixty foot times without them spinning and will stay inflated all winter without deflating.
So do you just let the soapy water dry & not rinse the soap residue ?
 
So do you just let the soapy water dry & not rinse the soap residue ?

no rinsing. The soap soaks into the sidewalls and seals the leaks in the thin sidewalls. Years ago I would see bubbles on my slicks when I was washing my car. Two applications is just double insurance things are sealed.
 
I had read about the high tack, here is my question.
How hard is it to dismount them after the high tack has been on there for a while?
 
I had read about the high tack, here is my question.
How hard is it to dismount them after the high tack has been on there for a while?


I’ve never had to do it. Lol. I’m sure it’s a workout for the guys but they never complain. I dropped all for wheels and tires off yesterday and picked them up a 9 am this morning. I asked how much and he finally said 20.00 but he hates to take anything and knows I buy ammo my tires there. I gave him 50.00 and told him to buy the guys some pizza. I’ll be back in a week or two for six motorhome tires. That’s gonna hurt my wallet bad so I’ve been listing a few parts for sale.
 
Does it matter which brand dish soap u use? Kim


It’s funny but we all seem to use and like Dawn. I use it everywhere else in my house so it’s convenient and I can go by the blue coloring of the water to know approximately how must is needed.
 
It’s funny but we all seem to use and like Dawn. I use it everywhere else in my house so it’s convenient and I can go by the blue coloring of the water to know approximately how must is needed.

Way back in the stone age when I built plastic models, we used dawn to make 'washes' (mix water based paint with some dawn, brush on, then wipe off - fills panels lines and stuff, gives some depth, detail and weathering).
There's something different about dawn itself, because other soaps wouldn't work as well. Dawn seems to have more of the gooey stuff that's probably responsible for sealing the porosity in the rubber. Lots of cheap soaps seem to be heavier on the detergent and lack the thickeners/surfactants that dawn has.
 
no rinsing. The soap soaks into the sidewalls and seals the leaks in the thin sidewalls. Years ago I would see bubbles on my slicks when I was washing my car. Two applications is just double insurance things are sealed.
That's amazing. Thank you for posting this
 
Way back in the stone age when I built plastic models, we used dawn to make 'washes' (mix water based paint with some dawn, brush on, then wipe off - fills panels lines and stuff, gives some depth, detail and weathering).
There's something different about dawn itself, because other soaps wouldn't work as well. Dawn seems to have more of the gooey stuff that's probably responsible for sealing the porosity in the rubber. Lots of cheap soaps seem to be heavier on the detergent and lack the thickeners/surfactants that dawn has.
And it saves baby ducks from evil oil lol
 
I used to do the same thing. Works great.
Then I went to radials, don’t have to do anything except put them on. Stay aired up all winter
 
Thanks for the tutorial John. My M/T front runners leak down in 1-2 weeks. Kim

sent a pair of front runner back to M/t last season. They were pissing air out the sidwalls like you wouldnt believe. They warrantied them no problem. Pictures are needed.
 
sent a pair of front runner back to M/t last season. They were pissing air out the sidwalls like you wouldnt believe. They warrantied them no problem. Pictures are needed.


I’m not sure who you are talking about when asking for pictures
 
Ok guy a last few things to add. When you look on your slicks it should be marked on the somewhere with white paint your slicks size. In my case it’s marked 100.5 in both of them. Well after they are mounted i equalize the air pressure in both slicks then I use one of my Dads wind up tape measure that he used for electrical work. It’s kinda hard by yourself on a big slick but wrap the tape around the center to see if they both measure the same. I think Mickey Thompson says on their tag within 3/4 of an inch but I would never run them like that. There is a procedure on Mickey Thompson’s website on how to equalize them but it must be now, before you run them. Mine measured slightly under 1/16 inch so I’m good to go. Next up is balancing them. Some guys don’t, I do. You can see in this picture how much weight I used. I actually added another 1/2 ounce. After they are balanced I use Gorilla Tape as added protection to keep them glued on. Well I think that’s it. Ohhh I use a Harbor Freight balancer on my slicks and I have an old style balancer in my house garage for fronts. Fronts are to light for my Harbor Freight balancer.
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