How about a little slick tech

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pittsburghracer said:
Ok guy a last few things to add. When you look on your slicks it should be marked on the somewhere with white paint your slicks size. In my case it’s marked 100.5 in both of them. Well after they are mounted i equalize the air pressure in both slicks then I use one of my Dads wind up tape measure that he used for electrical work. It’s kinda hard by yourself on a big slick but wrap the tape around the center to see if they both measure the same. I think Mickey Thompson says on their tag within 3/4 of an inch but I would never run them like that. There is a procedure on Mickey Thompson’s website on how to equalize them but it must be now, before you run them. Mine measured slightly under 1/16 inch so I’m good to go. Next up is balancing them. Some guys don’t, I do. You can see in this picture how much weight I used. I actually added another 1/2 ounce. After they are balanced I use Gorilla Tape as added protection to keep them glued on. Well I think that’s it. Ohhh I use a Harbor Freight balancer on my slicks and I have an old style balancer in my house garage for fronts. Fronts are to light for my Harbor Freight balancer. View attachment 1715930792View attachment 1715930794View attachment 1715930795View attachment 1715930796
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gorilla tape, great idea. Had a driver front
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stick on wheel weight fall off on the floor while the car was in my showroom over the winter. I will start using that
 
My very last thing I do on a new slick install is I use a white “Welders paint pen” to put a make on each slick. That way I know if they spun some and gave me a vibration.
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I remove wheels, throw on golf cart, drop off at Mickey support trailer, pick up when done
Great info John…. although I preferred lemon fresh Joy

I’ve been running tubes since the W8 deal came about
 
Nice trick!!!!
I knew about the dawn dish soap but i run tubes(3860 pound car, i need all the side wall i can get).
Never thought you could run that much power on any slick with out screws or a bead lock.

Wish you would have made this post 2 year a go when i installed my last pair of slicks.

AGREE!!! THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY...........
Just saying..............
 
Cudafever said:
Nice trick!!!!
I knew about the dawn dish soap but i run tubes(3860 pound car, i need all the side wall i can get).
Never thought you could run that much power on any slick with out screws or a bead lock.

Wish you would have made this post 2 year a go when i installed my last pair of slicks.

AGREE!!! THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY...........
Just saying..............
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That’s up to those in power. Lol
 
On coating the inside of tires, i just use straight dawn soap, no water. Plenty of it. Wipe excess soap off, done. I still use screws, since i have a 11.17 SLA and lots of torque. But i like the glue idea, i would think as long as the tires don t slip, should be as good as beadlocks. Tall sidewalls may not like the glue though, like a 33x15.
 
Will be trying your trick next weekend, thanks again John
 
Phreakish said:
Way back in the stone age when I built plastic models, we used dawn to make 'washes' (mix water based paint with some dawn, brush on, then wipe off - fills panels lines and stuff, gives some depth, detail and weathering).
There's something different about dawn itself, because other soaps wouldn't work as well. Dawn seems to have more of the gooey stuff that's probably responsible for sealing the porosity in the rubber. Lots of cheap soaps seem to be heavier on the detergent and lack the thickeners/surfactants that dawn has.
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When I ran Automated Drywall Finishing tools( Ames, boxes, Bazooka, roller, glazer, ect) a lifetime ago, we added Dawn to the Mud. Slicked it out a Lil, and made it dry faster
 
pittsburghracer said:
It’s funny but we all seem to use and like Dawn. I use it everywhere else in my house so it’s convenient and I can go by the blue coloring of the water to know approximately how must is needed.
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I was told years ago to use Palmolive. I've always used it, but I just put 2 new slicks on and didn't have enough Palmolive for both tires, so I used Dawn on the other one. We'll see if there's a difference!
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’m getting my slicks mounted today so I thought I would post up my procedure. Many already know this or it may not be needed for guys that screw their slicks to the rims and run tubes, I don’t. On Mickey Thompson slicks they recommend carefully removing the “mold compound” from the bead without getting it inside. This is my procedure for preparing slicks before mounting. I carefully use laquire thinner on a rag and clean View attachment 1715929440 View attachment 1715929441 View attachment 1715929442 all four beads on my slicks. Then I mix up a small mixture of Dawn dish soap and water, heavy on the Dawn. I then take an old sock and soap up the inside walls of both slicks. I do both on one side and flip them over after it drys to do the other side. I do this twice to both slicks and my slicks do not leak like many guys complain about. After all the four inside sidewalls are done twice that part is done. Now I take red scotch right cloth and scuff all four mounting beads. Then I clean the beads with laquire thinner. I then take mine to the tire shop and they coat the beads with “High Tack” brush on sealer with no water used when mounting them. I have the guys inflate them to 15 pounds to push the tire against the rim while the High Tack dries. I’ve run them like this with 1.25 sixty foot times without them spinning and will stay inflated all winter without deflating.
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I didnt read all these posts ,due to being old news , but I use dawn liquid , straight , and really heavy , works on tube type tires great -----
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Where do you get stick on tire balance weights ?
 
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