727 No 3rd Gear

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73smallblock

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Well Saturday a friend of mine developed an issue that cost him the win at our local drag strip. Rebuilt 727 with many upgrades was purchased from a local and very reputable builder and installed in April. He has put maybe 30 passes on it without issue. Well Saturday, about the 5th round he said it wouldn't go into high gear. He said it when he tries to go into third it's like it's trying to go between two gears and feels like it's going to lock up.

What can cause this? Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Linkage issue is possible. Possible mismatch of cable/linkage and the shift arm on the trans... Does reverse work properly still? I'd start by checking to see if it's fully in the proper gear at each detent.
 
Band adjustment is my guess if it has no 3rd gear. That is if it's not a physical lever position issue .
 
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Linkage issue is possible. Possible mismatch of cable/linkage and the shift arm on the trans... Does reverse work properly still? I'd start by checking to see if it's fully in the proper gear at each detent.
Yes every other gear works. Will double check the engagement.
 
3rd gear is the front clutch applied and the second gear band released.

So you could have a bad/broken seal ring on the stator support.

If it feels like locking then the band may not be releasing, servo stuck?

check the shifter adjustment then remove the Pam and check the band is free and not hanging up.

Why ask us, why not ask the reputable builder?
 
He is going to ask him but always looking for other people's thoughts.
 
That is what killed my friends son. He shifted drive and the trans locked up sending the car into a spin. Put the trans in a Challenger and it did the same thing. It was a fresh build by a local shop.
 
Then drop the valve body and air pressure test the front drum and frond band servo. And see how much end play there is.
 
Trans is coming out next weekend and going back to the builder. The forward and has over an inch of clearance till it hits the servo. I think something is wrong in the valve body, it was very tight just trying to shift it by hand. You basically had to hit it hard to get it out of gear when the trans was out of the car on a fresh build. It's an A&A valve body.
 
Something is definitely wrong. Sounds like the lining came off the band. The strut could of bent and/or fell out. Hope he stands behind his work. Kim
 
Something is definitely wrong. Sounds like the lining came off the band. The strut could of bent and/or fell out. Hope he stands behind his work. Kim
He already said he would take care of it. I don't think it was his fault at all. I would still buy from him.
 

No, it's Chryslers..... We had a poster....think it was over on FBBO, may have been here???, absolutely bitchen one time that he could'nt believe that Chrysler would design an exploding transmission (front drum failure usually drag racing) and then turn it loose on the public and have the audacity to continue making it for 40+ years.
/rolls eyes.
 
No, it's Chryslers..... We had a poster....think it was over on FBBO, may have been here???, absolutely bitchen one time that he could'nt believe that Chrysler would design an exploding transmission (front drum failure usually drag racing) and then turn it loose on the public and have the audacity to continue making it for 40+ years.
/rolls eyes.
Well, in their defense, the 727 was never designed to take the abuse under the conditions where they do explode. Everybody knows when you race one, there are precautions to take. I've preached it for YEARS that the only modification that you really "need" to make is the addition of a manual valve body with low band apply. That's really ALL it takes. That way, you can start out in 2nd gear for the burnout and eliminate the 1-2 shift in the burnout box, because that's where almost ALL of those explosions happen. That said, if you drive a totally STOCK 727 like you have the SENSE God gave a billy goat, you'll never have it happen, because ALL you need to do is KEEP IT SPINNING THROUGH THE 2nd GEAR SHIFT! That's all it takes. Pretty simple, really.
 
But doesn't low band apply lose about a tenth of a second because the low band has to be released at the same time the intermediate band is applied? Instead of; with no low band apply, the trans shifts into second by only applying the second gear band? Don't bite my head off; this is just what my billy goat told me to say.
 
But doesn't low band apply lose about a tenth of a second because the low band has to be released at the same time the intermediate band is applied? Instead of; with no low band apply, the trans shifts into second by only applying the second gear band? Don't bite my head off; this is just what my billy goat told me to say.
Ooooohh A whole 1/10? I just caint THINK where else I can make up such a huge deficit. Sarcasm off. lol
 
But doesn't low band apply lose about a tenth of a second because the low band has to be

I personally cant compare apples to billy goats..... I redid my trans with a good front clutch, low gear set and low band apply valve body... picked up three tenths... I thought that was a-ok. I'd try the old VB just for comparison, but i love the clean neutral way to much to go back....it kinda has some manners now. :steering::thankyou:
 
Oh no, you couldda picked up almost a whole half a second with that low gearset, if not for that pesky low band apply valve body! Dangit!!
 
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