Cleaning an aluminum carb

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pishta

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What's the process to clean a cast aluminum Holley 4010 or Edelbrock carb with the shiny finish? All seem to turn 5 shades of brightness over time: Big black spots, rough surfaces, dulling, etc. I was thinking maybe Eagle One etching mag cleaner? You put the stuff on a set of Westerns and they almost turn white, (well the foam does!) you have to rinse off and polish again to bring any shine back but at least it gets it one color. Any advice?
 
I haven’t done it yet but I have some aircraft aluminum polish that I am wanting to try. I figure that I would try hand application of the polish on a cloth followed by a polishing wheel (not rubber backed) on a drill or bench motor to get into the nooks and crannies.
As you hinted at, you know that any etching will remove discolored aluminum versus polishing away the very top surface of the blemish. Some enchants will turn the aluminum surface black (smut) that will be removed by polishing.
I have experience with aircraft aluminum processing through chemical baths that I have wanted to try and duplicate at home.
Good luck.
 
Here is one I cleaned in the Ultrasonic cleaner, 3 tablespoons of Pinesol and 2 gallons of distilled water. Heat the water in the Ultrasonic cleaner then run the bare carb in there at 10 minute intervals.

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Keeping an eye on things, and removing that brown gum from the gasoline. Getting the brown gum off is a good place to stop, because you can leave them in too long and start turing the carb body gray.

You can peel that yellow brass plating off the steel parts too if you leave them in too long.

So yeah have to keep a close eye on it so you don't go too far.

The carb bodies with the shiny finish are the easiest to clean. The earlier aluminum Cast finishes are the ones you really have to be careful with as they will turn gray.

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Google vapor honing or vapor blasting. You can send parts out for service or may find someone local. Probably the best way to clean a carb but it isn't free.
 
Okay, I thought it had showed him cleaning it, but it was in the thread he talked about using a wire brush attachments in a Dremel. A cup of aluminum brightener and a cup of vinegar in a bucket of hot water with a teaspoon of naval jelly for an overnight soak will clean one up very well, too! That’s one that you will need to keep an eye on, though, because it will really etch it if left in too long.
 
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Google vapor honing or vapor blasting. You can send parts out for service or may find someone local. Probably the best way to clean a carb but it isn't free.

That is a really nice system. I'll show my son I am sure there will be one here shortly. That would work great for aluminum heads and blocks.
 
Google vapor honing or vapor blasting. You can send parts out for service or may find someone local. Probably the best way to clean a carb but it isn't free.

When I started working for Douglas Aircraft Company way back in 1984, we had a HydroHone blast cabinet that used pressurized water and a variety of abrasives. One of the things that I discovered while using and experimenting with it was that I could use just plain pressurized water and remove paint from the primer. Another thing that I could do was to change the pressure setting and give the oxidized paint coat a “water polish” surface finish.
 
I got a pressure washer and can make a plastic barrel blast cabinet. Maybe I can rig up a flexible gun in the cabinet and a media suction cup. Or just blast it with soda....Ill try Eagle One etching mag cleaner (aluminum brightener) first on a small area under the carb.
 
my business is media blasting. one part of it is vapor blasting. i have done tons of carbs and they turn out really well. only issue is keeping the media out of the orfices and out of the throttle shaft springs. i normally ultrasonic before and then vapor then ultrasonic again and blow out everything
 
only issue is keeping the media out of the orfices and out of the throttle shaft springs.
Isn’t vapor blasting done with dry ice? Why do you have to be careful to keep it off of the springs and out of orifices?
 
That's clean! Not something I can do the the garage though...:-(
 
Too dull for my liking but their cleaner than clean. Lol

i would say looking at those pics that they used a really big glass bead. i can get my stuff pretty close to factory finish. only issue is getting them too bright on rough cast surfaces can make stuff look like cheap aluminum spray paint has been used.
 
Edelbrock calls their shiny finish "endurashine", and the internet says it's a metalized finish with a clear powdercoat on top. Makes sense, since I've seen it flake before when in super corrosive settings.

Pretty much any mechanical cleaning will probably damage it. Dry ice blast probably wouldn't, but it will remove the areas where it's already compromised.

Vapor blast or vapor home works really well. High speed tumbling can do wonders, but with a carb I'd be worried about packing orifices with media. Plus, it takes pretty fine stones or media to get all the sharp inside geometry of a carb, and a few seconds too many in a high speed tumbler will make expensive scrap.

Most carbs aren't straight aluminum, but a die casting alloy that may also contain zinc and magnesium. It's often a highly reactive metal that will oxidize rapidly and polishes poorly. Some sort of chemical barrier is needed to make an inert surface. I'd go with shops that specialize in carburetor restoration and refinishing. But there's nothing wrong with starting with a blast job. With care, it won't degrade too fast, but won't last if near salt water or exposed to varying humidity.
 
The Holley Pro Dominator and Eddie carbs were vapor blasted . Came out looking new. Are you trying to preserve the Endurashine finish ?

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No just trying to get it all one shade of silver. I've never come across a used endurashine carb that looked new. All seem to have some sort of shading in the finish.
 
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