TTI shortys

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Uncle Bob

Shiny paint causes stress.
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Well dangit my starter went out. The car is a 71 Duster 318 PS with a 400 on elephant ears and A/T, with a pair of old rusty Hedmans on it that someone beat on until they fit. It's a full size starter.

FWIW, no way is that starter coming out without picking the engine up and taking the headers off, so I'm in a pickle. If I'm going through that punishment, I'm going to replace the headers to avoid the hassle of getting the Hedmans back on and starter problems in the future.

Schumacher's aren't available for several months so they're out. Has anyone tried the TTI shortys? Are they as trouble free to install as the Schumachers are?

Thanks,
Bob
 
Get manifolds..71 demon with 400 and GTS 383 manifolds..

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Actually you can use C and B body Hp manifolds..but you have to make a special downpipe from flange....pairs of those can run about $200-$300....check for cracks...I really don't know much about their headers...I wanted Schumacher tri-y design but now you can't get em
 
I wanted Schumacher tri-y design but now you can't get em
I was looking at them earlier this year when all they had left were the most expensive polished coated sets. I couldn't make up my mind if I wanted them or if I wanted to switch back to a small block and I missed out.

Now I'm kind of stuck between a rock and a hard spot. I need the car out of my garage soon so I can pull the engine/trans out of another one that's blocked in that's going to resto in Sept., and there's no getting it to where I need it to go unless it's running.
 
I was looking at them earlier this year when all they had left were the most expensive polished coated sets. I couldn't make up my mind if I wanted them or if I wanted to switch back to a small block and I missed out.

Now I'm kind of stuck between a rock and a hard spot. I need the car out of my garage soon so I can pull the engine/trans out of another one that's blocked in that's going to resto in Sept., and there's no getting it to where I need it to go unless it's running.
After cooking starters with my '69 Charger & headers, I went back to manifolds. Though pricy, I would definitely go that route and have the pipes made to fit. While you're at it, dump that boat anchor of a starter and go with a more modern, high torque one (I used a rebuilt one that fit a 1993 Ram truck). You'll be glad you did!
 
After cooking starters with my '69 Charger & headers, I went back to manifolds. Though pricy, I would definitely go that route and have the pipes made to fit. While you're at it, dump that boat anchor of a starter and go with a more modern, high torque one (I used a rebuilt one that fit a 1993 Ram truck). You'll be glad you did!
Based on where the wiring terminals are I think it's already got a mini-starter on it - it's completely covered with a thermal blanket and tucked inside the headers so I can't really tell :p

I was looking at it closer last night to see if there is any hope of lifting the engine with the headers unbolted to get to the starter, and decided the correct tool for removing the headers is a reciprocating saw and a wrench or two.
 
Based on where the wiring terminals are I think it's already got a mini-starter on it - it's completely covered with a thermal blanket and tucked inside the headers so I can't really tell :p

I was looking at it closer last night to see if there is any hope of lifting the engine with the headers unbolted to get to the starter, and decided the correct tool for removing the headers is a reciprocating saw and a wrench or two.
:rofl: Sometimes the best tool is a sawzall!!!
 
Based on where the wiring terminals are I think it's already got a mini-starter on it - it's completely covered with a thermal blanket and tucked inside the headers so I can't really

I was looking at it closer last night to see if there is any hope of lifting the engine with the headers unbolted to get to the starter, and decided the correct tool for removing the headers is a reciprocating saw and a wrench or two.
Been there done that!
 
I was looking at it closer last night to see if there is any hope of lifting the engine with the headers unbolted to get to the starter, and decided the correct tool for removing the headers is a reciprocating saw and a wrench or two.

I hope you didn't think I was kidding


The passenger side slid right in. Gotta pull the steering column and grind on the block for the driver's side, according to the instructions.


It once had a good starter on it
 
What did you end up going with?

I got a good deal on a chromed set of Schumachers from a member.

I'm making progress toward starting to trial fit the driver's side - I pulled the steering column and won a battle with a broken dipstick tube today.

I'm debating swapping the elephant ears for mounts but kind of need to get on with it. So I'll probably leave it as is for now.
 
I got a good deal on a chromed set of Schumachers from a member.

I'm making progress toward starting to trial fit the driver's side - I pulled the steering column and won a battle with a broken dipstick tube today.

I'm debating swapping the elephant ears for mounts but kind of need to get on with it. So I'll probably leave it as is for now.

Nice! I'm in the same / similar situation with the exhaust. I have a 383 going in a 72 Duster. I was going to go the TTI shorty route - I never heard of any fit issues, but then it would not surprise me with my project. That road has been a bumpy one...
 
Very cool. Keep us posted on how the install goes. I was gonna say I have an HP driver's side B and C body manifold and an HP passenger's side manifold but you've got it on the downhill slide now!
 
Nice! I'm in the same / similar situation with the exhaust. I have a 383 going in a 72 Duster. I was going to go the TTI shorty route - I never heard of any fit issues, but then it would not surprise me with my project. That road has been a bumpy one...
I put the shorties in a 68 barracuda with 440 4 speed, power steering a couple of years ago. Had to buy a specific starter that TTI tells you to use. Tight but Everything fit.

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I hope you didn't think I was kidding


The passenger side slid right in. Gotta pull the steering column and grind on the block for the driver's side, according to the instructions.


It once had a good starter on it


What instructions say to grind on the block? I have schumacher tri Y's that I bought a few months ago when the had their first new batch. My instructions make no mention of that
 
What instructions say to grind on the block? I have schumacher tri Y's that I bought a few months ago when the had their first new batch. My instructions make no mention of that
Mine are older. There were two sheets in the box, one was double-sided and it's on that one. It could be different now.

See the paragraph next to the photo
rIPdVR6.png
 
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