CLUTCH HELP

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WAYNE0

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My dad was the guy to go to when i had a clutch or 4spd trany problem but he is no longer with us. So hopefully someone here can help. Here is what i have 360 engine rebuilt 833 4spd trany, new Mcloud diaphram clutch, disk, throw out bearing. New hurst shifter mech., linkage. Other than the Z bar everything is new. I finally got the driveshaft in today & wanted to see if it would move. I got it started & tried to put it in gear & no go. I couldnt get it in any gear. I shut it off then it would go into gear. When its in gear & i push the clutch pedal in & try to start it the car moves as if the pedal isnt pushed in. Hope i explained things ok lol
 
Sounds like the clutch is not releasing.

Could be as simple as a rod adjustment.
Could be other factors.

@jaws
 
Diaphram clutches were designed for Chevy's, I NEVER use them in any Mopar! Do you till have the over center spring on the clutch pedal? Remove that first if you do...
 
It is not unusual for people to weld on more thread, or add stock between the eye & threaded portion. Sometimes when they changed clutches, bell housings difference at pivot fork bracket pad height, or when converting non-4-speed cars to begin with if so. You can always count on problems when you're not using good stock replacement stuff.
 
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yes i removed the heavy spring under the dash everything is stockish but the clutch its self also i did add more threads to the adjustment rod
 
I know this is a dumbass question, but are you sure you didn't put the clutch disc in backwards? Don't laugh too hard, I've done it myself. lol
 
I know this is a dumbass question, but are you sure you didn't put the clutch disc in backwards? Don't laugh too hard, I've done it myself. lol
Agree with rusty, how fare does the clutch pedal move before the through out bearing touches the fingers on the clutch? Clutch fork clipped into bell housing?
 
I know this is a dumbass question, but are you sure you didn't put the clutch disc in backwards? Don't laugh too hard, I've done it myself. lol
way to go now you got me thinking lol i didnt know you could put it in backwards on the disk in the middle part where the springs are one side is flat & the other side sticks out the side that sticks out goes towards clutch & the flat side goes toward the flywheel
 
way to go now you got me thinking lol i didnt know you could put it in backwards on the disk in the middle part where the springs are one side is flat & the other side sticks out the side that sticks out goes towards clutch & the flat side goes toward the flywheel

My experience as well .
Davescuda tried and had interference issues as well.
6 cyl clutch disc with tiny springs, or the rubber blocks might fit .
 
Agree with rusty, how fare does the clutch pedal move before the through out bearing touches the fingers on the clutch? Clutch fork clipped into bell housing?
im sure the fork is in right the othr thing i dont know i was told i could adjust it just like the 3 finger clutches the throw out bearing just touching the fingers
 
Also keep this in mind............If you have exhausted all else, the pressure plate may be defective. I once ran a 10 1/2 diaphragm from a stock application 'Vett in the 340 that was swapped into my 70 RR. I would not release, and turned out it was just plain defective
 
Also keep this in mind............If you have exhausted all else, the pressure plate may be defective. I once ran a 10 1/2 diaphragm from a stock application 'Vett in the 340 that was swapped into my 70 RR. I would not release, and turned out it was just plain defective
its new but how would you tell if its defective ? hate to pull it all apart
 
way to go now you got me thinking lol i didnt know you could put it in backwards on the disk in the middle part where the springs are one side is flat & the other side sticks out the side that sticks out goes towards clutch & the flat side goes toward the flywheel
Correct. Flat side to flywheel. Spring plate to pressure plate. You should be able to see it from removing the inspection cover.
 
Correct. Flat side to flywheel. Spring plate to pressure plate. You should be able to see it from removing the inspection cover.
thats the way ive always done it but ill look who knows thats the way things have been going on this car lol

67 BARRACUDA 8 8 21 024.JPG
 
Dave, this sounds a bit like Steve's issue, from what I remember.
 
its new but how would you tell if its defective ? hate to pull it all apart
Test it. If you don't have access because it's a scattershield, put it in a press. See if it releases. "Jig" up the flywheel, disk, and PP. If you have a conventional bell you should be able to do that in the car. Usually need another person unless you can devise an adjustable "prop" to keep the pedal fully depressed
 
Test it. If you don't have access because it's a scattershield, put it in a press. See if it releases. "Jig" up the flywheel, disk, and PP. If you have a conventional bell you should be able to do that in the car. Usually need another person unless you can devise an adjustable "prop" to keep the pedal fully depressed
2x4s and some 3 1/2" screws making a dead man...
 
Every stock pivot bracket I've ever used on a Lakewood scatter Shield bellhousing setup has bent and cracked and that's with the center for dual friction and a hayes clutch as well. I had to make myself one out of quarter inch steel
 
just might have to try that whats the 3 1/2 screws for ?
To make a "T" outta the 2 pcs of lumber. Ya don't want em to flex. It also would depend if Ya Have seat tracks or not in the cabin. But, I've read a bunch of yer stuff, Ya ain't dumb! Lol. Basically, find a Stable place to rest a 2x4 from driver side to passenger side. Using another one, push it forward till the clutch pedal is all the way in. ( I'd wrap some cloth w/ Painters tape round the pad, so's not to mess it up) once It's shoved up in there, mark the backside, cut it, and tap it on in there. Then screw em together. Heck, if the doors are off, you could bridge em and Wedge one to the pedals.... sorry for sounding stupid here. I'm tired as can be....
 
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