Wheel lug stud identification and or replacement

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GHOST RUSTERS

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Hello FABO! I’m looking for some help identifying and finding a replacement for my wheel lug studs… 1965 Plymouth Barracuda 273/904 auto, 10” drums front and rear…

I’ve gone to NAPA and they don’t show an exact replacement and I’m not sure what this means for an exact replacement or other options…

I’d like to refrain from any major changes, if possible, as I plan to use the same wheels that my dad had on the car… some of the lugs are stripped, broken or just flat out MIA… any and all feedback is greatly appreciated! Hope you’re all well! Happy wrenching! Thanks!

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1965 Plymouth Barracuda 273/904 auto, 10” drums front and rear…

BTW if you have BBP vs SBP the studs will be 1/2" vs 7/16" and that indicates a swap of parts at some point.


Are you replacing all or just one side. The left probably has left hand threads, no one makes them. If you look on the end of your studs you may see a "L" or a "R" on the outward facing ends.

If you are replacing all of them then converting to all right hand is a good decision. BE SURE to press in vs pull in the studs. it's more work but no chance of over tightening the lug studs and causing potential failure.

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I’ve gone to NAPA and they don’t show an exact replacement and I’m not sure what this means for an exact replacement or other options…
Napa's online catalog sucks.

keep in mind that in 65 the Barracuda was a Valiant with a sub class of Barracuda. some parts books still call it that.

BUT 65 Dart, Barracuda, and Valiant would all use the same lug studs by location and brake type / size
 
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Hey there! Long time no talk haha. Good to hear from you thanks for chiming in… I appreciate the info and that’s exactly what had me puzzled… and I would rather go ahead and replace ALL of them and I agree with you converting to right hand thread is a good idea and what I would like to do…

I did not see an L or an R but I will check for that… being that some are missing and damaged, starting fresh seems smart at this time…

As you mentioned to PRESS in… would that mean the removal of the rear axle and hub to do so? And for the front press them into the drum?

You’re absolutely right with napas catalog and even in store seemed like a lost cause…

Of the two you have selected (is that rock auto?) is it going to be by length of the entire stud or shank?

Also, will converting these to right hand or a different stud present any issues with finding the correct lug nuts that will work with my wheels?

Thanks again for the knowledge and feedback!
 
Get right handed lug nuts for the same studs you buy. Your old left side studs would have been copper in color with a letter L stamped in the threaded side end ? The right should be black or natural color with an R stamped in the end.
 
As you mentioned to PRESS in… would that mean the removal of the rear axle and hub to do so? And for the front press them into the drum
That would be the best way to do it.

You might find a ball joint press that can exert enough pressure.

Usually by now the drums have a bigger hole so pressing studs to the drum is not needed.
Of the two you have selected (is that rock auto?) is it going to be by length of the entire stud or shank
I just looked at the application I did not look at the specs
Also, will converting these to right hand or a different stud present any issues with finding the correct lug nuts that will work with my wheels?
It will make it easier. Very hard to find LH lug nuts except standard tapered ones
 
You’re onto something… I found a few pictures from when I took them apart and I do see R on the driver side studs… but no L on the passenger side… also a little different drum style from driver and passenger side…

(Also, unrelated but in the same are… two drums had the “vibration” spring wrapped around the drum… are those critical to have or unnecessary?)

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I found a few pictures from when I took them apart and I do see R on the driver side studs… but no L on the passenger side
Try a nut on the right side and if it goes on the left side as well, they have all been replaced.


also a little different drum style from driver and passenger side
It's not surprising that the external design of the drums is different in 50+ years.

As long as the critical dimensions are correct, it's of little concern.


(Also, unrelated but in the same are… two drums had the “vibration” spring wrapped around the drum… are those critical to have or unnecessary?

I can not say I have seen a new drum brake drum with any kind of vibration spring sold in decades.


As for needed.... Probably not, as I recall they might help reduce chatter but I'm not sure that's an issue anymore with modern show compounds
 
I’ve got something screwed going on then… again this car sat for 20+ years and it’s history before that is… questionable…

I’ve got “R” on the driver side front, passenger side rear, NOTHING on the studs on the passenger side front or driver side rear…

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I’ve got “R” on the driver side front, passenger side rear, NOTHING on the studs on the passenger side front or driver side rear…
Its not surprising. a lot of years things can happen.

My guess is at some point the LH studs were replaced with aftermarket RH studs, ("no marking on the drivers side rear") aftermarket studs typically do not have the R since it is implied that all studs are right hand and the front drivers side was changed too but the PO put the OEM hub\drum on the drivers side. with all right hand studs they are interchangeable.

It actually makes sense.
 
Agreed! And it’s pretty evident work has been done multiple times as you mentioned… and that’s what I’m hoping for. On the Rock auto page of your screenshot it shows a different application for front and rear… would I be fine to then just order 10 of front and 10 of rear and replace/convert all of them? Am I understanding that correctly?
 
Agreed! And it’s pretty evident work has been done multiple times as you mentioned… and that’s what I’m hoping for. On the Rock auto page of your screenshot it shows a different application for front and rear… would I be fine to then just order 10 of front and 10 of rear and replace/convert all of them? Am I understanding that correctly?
yes BUT....

check the specs of what you have and what your buying to be sure.

also if the drums have never been off the hubs ( front only ) it is likely they are swaged on and requite additional work (grinding cutting etc) to remove. not doing that MIGHT make your hubs boat anchors
 
The passenger front drumcame off the hub with very little effort… the driver side seemed solid so I left it as is… I’ll be knocking out the old races soon and putting in new ones with new bearings as well…

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The pass side had the no R on the end right,?

That correlates well with the studs being replaced in the past

When you get the drivers side studs replaced the drum should also be able to come off easish



I would hold off doing the bearings till after the studs are replaced
 
So after a little further digging, I found a box of parts that I had not previously gone through thoroughly from when I first cleaned out the car year ago and found one more stud and a lug nuts with broken studs inside of the nut… so at this point, I am only missing the five studs on the driver side rear hub… which appear to be the copper colored ones… I’ll run a nut into the threads to determine right or left thread and get back to you …
 
Ya know, in back thinking. Some people, not aware that Chrysler had left hand lug nuts on the left side of the car and right handed on the right, twisted a lot of lug nuts off on the driver's side. That may be the case with your car.
 
Got it! It’s a “cross-cross, work has been done previously” starter kit, haha…

Driver side front: right hand thread (have 5)
Driver side rear: left hand thread (have 1)

Pass side front: left hand thread (have 5)
Pass side rear: right hand thread (have 5)

So, I either replace/ convert all of them to right hand thread and new nuts as well

or just the 5 missing from the driver side rear… (this would be a little friendlier on the budget and also not involve removing already installed lug studs on the remaining hubs… just 5 studs and 20 nuts… but as you mentioned left hand is hard to find…
 
Ya know, in back thinking. Some people, not aware that Chrysler had left hand lug nuts on the left side of the car and right handed on the right, twisted a lot of lug nuts off on the driver's side. That may be the case with your car.
I agree 100%… I am guilty of doing exactly that to one when I first found the car and was setting it up to be pulled up onto the trailer… I realized right away and left the rest alone… and am now looking for a suitable replacement/conversion stud and nut full setup or just replacing the 5 missing from the driver side rear…
 
Driver side front: right hand thread (have 5)
Driver side rear: left hand thread (have 1)

Pass side front: left hand thread (have 5)
Pass side rear: right hand thread (have 5)
So...

If you swap the front hubs.

You will have


Driver side front: left hand thread (have 5)
Driver side rear: left hand thread (have 1)


Pass side front: Right hand thread (have 5)
Pass side rear: right hand thread (have 5)

So all you will need is 4 LH rear studs.

It's an easy pull of the rear axle.

This assumes you have all the correct nuts for your wheels.

Stock steel wheel LH lug nuts are available
 
I am embarrassed to admit that didn’t even cross my mind to swap the front hubs… too close to the flame, get burned… you’re a genius! Thank you!

Having said that, I do NOT have all of the nuts… I have 5, 2 of which have the broken studs in them…

So, back to the drawing board I can get the drive side and passenger set up with the same RH and LH threads by swapping the front hubs, then if I can find 4 LH studs to complete the driver side rear… then 10 LH nuts and 10 RH nuts… ‍
 
Post a photo of the nuts your trying to match up.

There are several of us Left stud lovers with used or NOS studs.

I'm sure we can scrounge up enough for you.

Or

While everything is apart switch them all over
 
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