I’ve been messing with the pump cam settings, each time checking the tolerance to 0.010” at WOT, and it still falls flat on its face on a hard acceleration, quick throttle, or if I don’t shift like a grandma in a Lincoln lol. It has a pretty bad off clutch stumble I can hear the exhaust cut out and the nose dips for a second when I let out the clutch.
It seems to have a nice clean shot when I open the throttle a lot but not really at a small input to the throttle. Smooth throttle input it’s pretty smooth maybe a slight stumble for a split second right at the start so it sounds like it’s transitioning well it’s just not able to fill the gap.
From what I’ve read that sounds like a pretty strong candidate for a cam change? I can get a stronger squirt at idle if I “preload” the pump arm but that also would be bottoming it out at WOT I would think.
I think I already mentioned this too but I have to keep the idle super fat for it to I guess provide enough fuel for the transition, if I lean it out where it’s happy well for one it idles super high and it barely can get moving. Come to think of it maybe I somehow blew out a power valve?
You didn’t blow a power valve.
Here is my last advice and then I’m tapping out because you are trying to ride 5 different horses with one ***.
Plug that motherfucking middle emulsion hole if it’s actually open.
Move the IFR down where the science over 100 years ago says it should be. It would be no bigger than .030 if I was doing it and I’d probably go down to .028 if I was doing it myself.
Measure the main air bleed. The smaller bleed of the two on top of the carb. If it’s bigger than .026 drill it out and thread it for a 10/32 set screw and make it .026.
Then start tuning again.
You are trying to cut corners and hope that some bullshit internet myth that you have a pump shot issue will magically work itself out. It won’t.
I’ve done bunches of these carbs and they all come with different tune ups in them and none of them are worth a rusty ****.
I’m telling you how to START fixing it. You have a bunch of work to do once you unfuck what you have as far as I’ve said.
And get some T slot restricters in there. Start at .078 and tune from there. You will probably end up in the mid .060’s bit work your way there and learn as you go.
Just for the record on my tunnel ram **** with the correct booster I can use one .026 emulsion bleed. You don’t need three emulsion holes open unless you want to spend several days on the dyno flogging that **** out.
And measure the idle air bleed so you can see how hacked up that is.
You haven’t measured much so we are all grabbing our asses trying to guess on what you have.
