Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
The washers like things are nylon or something like it. No idea on the white goop. Most of the engine fastners will go to the scrap bin
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When was the last time you saw one of these (mystery race engine purchase)
- Thread starter Jeremiah (jd)
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Are you familiar with line 2 line coatings?
I had my pistons done after the rings butted
If your piston clearance is over loose have them coated. It was just about the price of 1.5 ross pistons when I had it done.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I'll have an idea on the PtW clearance later tonight when I remove piston/rods/crank. At that point I'll have enough info to choose a direction.
I was able to get the balancer off after an overnight soak in oil and a bit of my neighbor not being worried about breaking the puller or bolts. He fixes dump trucks for a living : D
The cam and lifters appear to have low run time.
If the PtW measures in spec I'll hit itcwith a light hone, re-ring and off we go.
I was able to get the balancer off after an overnight soak in oil and a bit of my neighbor not being worried about breaking the puller or bolts. He fixes dump trucks for a living : D
The cam and lifters appear to have low run time.
If the PtW measures in spec I'll hit itcwith a light hone, re-ring and off we go.
Cool dude, looks like it will be good so far.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You gonna measure that broomstick and tell us what you got there?
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
My favorite dial indicator was under the car. Don't mind the autozone digital tongs. What solid lifter purple cam had .411ish lobe lift?
Tis a 620 purple shaft, exactly what I expected it to have lol
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
You called that!
lol he did call that one.
middleagecrisis
Well-Known Member
I ran that cam in a 440 that I built with Mopar template 906 (stock valves) bowl ported heads, 411 gears and a four speed. It was a great running motor and pulled hard in fourth gear!
PRH
Well-Known Member
In most typical bracket cars the 590 cam was a better option than the 620…….especially if the engine isn’t “high compression”.
The one engine I tested that used one was like 13:1.
I plotted out the cam, it was 283@.050.
With flat tops in a std stroke 440 and EZ-1 heads, I’d expect it to be kinda soft in the mid-range.
It’s fairly easy on parts though.
The only 590 vs 620 comparison I remember seeing:
It’s in a stroker SB-
https://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/Fading_Color_Article.pdf
The one engine I tested that used one was like 13:1.
I plotted out the cam, it was 283@.050.
With flat tops in a std stroke 440 and EZ-1 heads, I’d expect it to be kinda soft in the mid-range.
It’s fairly easy on parts though.
The only 590 vs 620 comparison I remember seeing:
It’s in a stroker SB-
https://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/Fading_Color_Article.pdf
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I found this picture in and old ad on A Bodies.
I was going to run that cam , but thankfully what came in the box was a 590 purple shaft. I sent it back and started getting to where I am now.
That's probably the cam I bought lol
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
I still have one myself in my 360. It runs great. Idles really nice too!!
Looks like a nice score.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I had a chance to mic the pistons. All of them come in at 4.3693-4.3704 with the exception of #4 (4.3665) amd #3 (4.3674). I think I'll be good to go between .005-.006 PtW clearance.
The next step will be cylinder bore inspection using a dial bore gauge. Hopefully a few strokes of the hone, two pistons and a set of rings will take care of the short block.
The next step will be cylinder bore inspection using a dial bore gauge. Hopefully a few strokes of the hone, two pistons and a set of rings will take care of the short block.
Very cool
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Measuring the cylinder bores tells you a bit of the story of an engine's life from the machinist to the operator. This block measures pretty darn good with respect to taper (.0005 max) and out of round (.0005 max). Judging by the consistency in the bores without the head bolted down I am going to assume this engine was bored without a torque plate on the head surfaces.
The bore measurement (4.3730-4.37250) is a bit tight for a 2618 piston. Wondering if whomever bored this block out assumed the pistons were 4032 because the clearance would be perfect. I should be able to get .005ish per cylinder with a quick hone job.
While I trust my old Sunnen dial bore gauge I broke out my economy unit to double check my measurements.
For those of us on a budget (hand raised, pb&j in lunch pail) the Shars 303-4746 2-6" cylinder gauge is a fantastic value. Up until last year the only extended dial bore gauge available aside from the prohibitively expensive Sunnen units available from Goodson, were economy units that utilize extensions that I don't not care for. This 17-in long dial-bore gauge fits the bill for measuring cylinder bores and main journals and is under $200. I can also squeak it into the cam tunnel on a big block. The only desire I have for the Shars is to replace the .0005 resolution indicator with a .0001 model.
The bore measurement (4.3730-4.37250) is a bit tight for a 2618 piston. Wondering if whomever bored this block out assumed the pistons were 4032 because the clearance would be perfect. I should be able to get .005ish per cylinder with a quick hone job.
While I trust my old Sunnen dial bore gauge I broke out my economy unit to double check my measurements.
For those of us on a budget (hand raised, pb&j in lunch pail) the Shars 303-4746 2-6" cylinder gauge is a fantastic value. Up until last year the only extended dial bore gauge available aside from the prohibitively expensive Sunnen units available from Goodson, were economy units that utilize extensions that I don't not care for. This 17-in long dial-bore gauge fits the bill for measuring cylinder bores and main journals and is under $200. I can also squeak it into the cam tunnel on a big block. The only desire I have for the Shars is to replace the .0005 resolution indicator with a .0001 model.
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Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
It's still ugly :/ I'll wash the block after it meets mr hone
Some Chrysler turquoise Dulpicolor will brighten things up!
Some Chrysler turquoise Dulpicolor will brighten things up!
Depending on the thickness of the torque plate and the boring bar used the big block Chrysler rb can be to tall to fit, possibly the block was honed with a torque plate.
That's not a crack I see starting at the pin bore?
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I did not know that. Aside from old school deck-mounted boring bars I am only familiar with the Sunnen ck10 and it's variants. This thing won't see north of 600hp so we should be good to go.
My plan is to use my last set of Stealths and maaaaaybe try some comp Evo hydraulic roller lifters. The only thing I am really lacking is an intake manifold. I was shooting for 525tq/525hp territory unless I get some sort of a sign lol
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Good eye! That is a scratch from some poor soul battling it out with a spirolock. One eeason I like to use Mahle pistions is the wire lock. Spirolocks are awfully complicated for what they accomplish.
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