1968 Dart fuel sender replacement

[1968 Dart 270]

Hi guys,got a factory fuel sender for my 1968 dart 270. I was going g to swap the sender but it's getting cloudy and looks like rain. I.have question though. Do I have to drop the fuel tank to replace the sender? I have an 8 3/4" rear and it looks like it might not clear the back of the differential housing. Has anyone here swapped senders with an 8 and 3/4 in rear end on a 68 Dart can say if it works without dropping the tank

 

[4spdragtop]

67 cuda with 83/4 sender swapped fine. Make sure fielnlevel is below sender location. You may have to twist/angle to get out. No tank drop thankfully!

 

[junkyardhero]

if you support it off the frame with jackstands and not the axle, the unit will drop down and you can thread the needle up in there and shimmy shake it out.

replace the soft line from the sending unit to the frame line while you're there and it's all apart.

 

[4spdragtop]

Watch fill tube.

 

[dano]

With the car safely in the air it can be removed without dropping the tank. Be sure 90% of the fuel is out of the tank or your taking a toxic bath. Reuse the lock ring and a new seal. Buy the proper lock ring tool as it will make removal and install way easier and guarantees its installed correctly, ask me how I know.....

You'll have to twist it around and rotate it but it will come out. Done it a few times including a new Holley in factory tank electric pump assembly.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

if you support it off the frame with jackstands and not the axle, the unit will drop down and you can thread the needle up in there and shimmy shake it out.

replace the soft line from the sending unit to the frame line while you're there and it's all apart.

Ok,Great. I backed it up on ramps to look at it and figured if I used the jack stands it would maybe clear but had to go to work before I could try that so I figured I'd ask

 

[1968 Dart 270]

With the car safely in the air it can be removed without dropping the tank. Be sure 90% of the fuel is out of the tank or your taking a toxic bath. Reuse the lock ring and a new seal. Buy the proper lock ring tool as it will make removal and install way easier and guarantees its installed correctly, ask me how I know.....

You'll have to twist it around and rotate it but it will come out. Done it a few times including a new Holley in factory tank electric pump assembly.

Great! Thanks for letting me know. I did buy a new seal and will use the original lock ring. Everyone on youtube was knocking the lock ring out with a screwdriver. Who would you recommend buying the tool from? Or is it something I can get locally at the auto parts store

 

[Dana67Dart]

What they ^ said!

When you go to refill the tank only put about 3/4 tank in and check for leaks around the seal. (DON'T ask me how I know that!)

The second time I messed with my fuel sender I gather up 18 gallon jugs, (windshield washer bottles worked well but real 5 gallon gas cans will work too!) made sure they were clean inside and syphoned out the fuel from the tank that way after I was done I could put the fuel back in a gallon at a time and check for leaks.

I can not say how much easier using a proper wrench was in getting the lock ring on and off (many will call me a sissy that I did not beating it with a hammer and a screwdriver, but I don't care!) the wrench I bought was "for Chrysler" but I recall having to file one of the teeth down to match the OEM lock ring. (NOTE the tooth shown might not be the tooth I filed down)

 

[Dana67Dart]

Everyone on youtube was knocking the lock ring out with a screwdriver. Who would you recommend buying the tool from? Or is it something I can get locally at the auto parts store

looks like NAPA stocks one BUT I don't know if it is the correct for Chrysler

As for the screwdriver method, what I found was the ring can get off center doing it that way and you have little control needing 2 hands for the hammer and the screwdriver to hold the sender on.

also this nubs (blue) IF YOUR LOCK RING HAS THEM need to go under the mating nub on the tank (red)

This lock ring is NOT fully installed, the lock ring nubs (blue) are NOT under the matching nubs on the tank (red)

another thing to point out is the sender alignment tab

 

[Professor Fate]

And don't forget to reconnect/replace the sender to fuel line ground strap, or your nice new sender won't work at all.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

Thanks guys for the tips. I'll try abd get that tool today when I'm off work

 

[mvh]

Note: the photo of the sender unit in post #9 is NOT an OEM unit for A-body. If you pull your original, it will look different. This is a good thing — the replacements are not calibrated correctly. Replace the sock and float, if necessary, and re-use your original sender, if possible.

 

[famous bob]

Note: the photo of the sender unit in post #9 is NOT an OEM unit for A-body. If you pull your original, it will look different. This is a good thing — the replacements are not calibrated correctly. Replace the sock and float, if necessary, and re-use your original sender, if possible.

I went thru the same thing , ''reuse the stock ring ''.
On another note .has anyone replaced one in a 68 fastback that had a Dana 60 with a chrome cover on it ?
And where did you find the replacement sending unit ? The one I bought doesn't read right , not even made the same ....

 

[Dana67Dart]

Note: the photo of the sender unit in post #9 is NOT an OEM unit for A-body. If you pull your original, it will look different. This is a good thing — the replacements are not calibrated correctly. Replace the sock and float, if necessary, and re-use your original sender, if possible.

The later OEM senders look like the one in the photo I'm not saying that the one in the photo is a later model or aftermarket . I have one in my 67 Dart and it works great. I have had the aftermarket and they are trash for accuracy



NOS supersedes sender ID

Here is a photo that has the latest supersedes number NOS senders from Chrysler and a 67-69 style on the bottom

 

[Dana67Dart]

On another note .has anyone replaced one in a 68 fastback that had a Dana 60 with a chrome cover on it ?

unless the Dana 60 cover interferes with the sender its the same procedure.

1. Support the rear of the car on jack stands from the lift points NOT the axle
2. Let the rear axle droop to full droop, if you need a bit more room remove the shocks from the spring perch.
3. It helps to get the front end up too but not totally necessary if the rear is up high enough

And where did you find the replacement sending unit ? The one I bought doesn't read right , not even made the same ....

Ebay, FABO, etc . search for these numbers 2421493 is superseded by 2932960 which is superseded by 3621615 which is superseded by 04051004

The last number will look like the aftermarket senders BUT is good with our cars.

Watch out for ebay ads, they will post the numbers above but in fine print mention it is a "New" sender = aftermarket

 

[QuickDart360]

The later OEM senders look like the one in the photo I'm not saying that the one in the photo is a later model or aftermarket . I have one in my 67 Dart and it works great. I have had the aftermarket and they are trash for accuracy



NOS supersedes sender ID
View attachment 1716377473


Here is a photo that has the latest supersedes number NOS senders from Chrysler and a 67-69 style on the bottom

View attachment 1716377472

Who sells these senders? I'm needing one for my dart sport. Thank you.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

Who sells these senders? I'm needing one for my dart sport. Thank you.

Like Dana said,ebay or post a wanted ad here. That's what I did. All the aftermarket ones are trash. Apparently the Chinese manufacturers couldn't be bothered engineering the part correctly so it functions as it should. Also as he said,be warned that people selling Chinese ones will put the original Mopar factory part numbers in their title. Andy Bernbaum had an nos factory one on ebay but it sold for $150.and he doesn't have anymore.
When I pull my old (factory) one out,I'm going to look into getting it rebuilt so I will have it for a spare.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Apparently the Chinese manufacturers couldn't be bothered engineering the part correctly so it functions as it should

It's not the Chinese manufacturers it's the US companies that either do not spec the part correctly or do proper Quality Control

 

[RustyRatRod]

I pull the tank every time I replace a sending unit. That way you can actually SEE into the tank and make sure it doesn't need cleaning out or rust removal. But then, I actually enjoy working on old cars.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

I had the day off today. Jacked the car up,got all for points on jack stands and the old sender came out super easy. Went to put the new used one in and when.i did I noticed that the outlet tube rotates freely unlike my old one,therefore it would leak gasoline so I had to pulle the new used one out and put my old non working one back in. On the plus part the locking ring came off and installed smoothly with no tool

Anyone here have any suggestions on how I can fix this issue? When the output tube moves it obviously moves the pickup and float sideways too and would leak gasoline around that tube. As far as I know there are no epoxies that are ethanol resistant. And I don't know where I could take it to have it brazed around the tube so it would be leak proof and solid again. This sucks!

 

[Dana67Dart]

Man that sucks.

A radiator shop might be able to clean the area and solder (silver solder might be the best)

Also any welder should be able to do it too.

Most importantly the mechanics of the sender need to be protected from abuse.

There should be whiteness marks on the tube dnd the plate to help with alignment.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

Man that sucks.

A radiator shop might be able to clean the area and solder (silver solder might be the best)

Also any welder should be able to do it too.

Most importantly the mechanics of the sender need to be protected from abuse.

There should be whiteness marks on the tube dnd the plate to help with alignment.

Yeah it does! I was so happy the old one came out super easy and was looking forward to actually not worrying about how much gas I have. One thing I noticed too on the new used sender is that when I raised and lowered the float I could feel the "bumps" as the contact passed against the potentiometer. My old one was smooth with no bumpy feeling going up or down and was the earlier longer design with an open potentiometer. I took a photo of the contact on my original old one and it appears there was a contact that rode on the resitor that either wore off or is missing

 

[Dana67Dart]

The hole is the tip of the are being worn off.

There is a how to article explaining a way to repair it.

I would not do all of the items in the artical. But repairing the tip I would do.

If you do that repair, go on Amazon and buy some electrical flux and solder. With a bit of protection of the wire board via a bit of thin card board and some aluminum from a soda can you could put it between the board and the sweep to do the soldering.



OEM Fuel Sender Repair 1967 Dart

 

[1968 Dart 270]

The hole is the tip of the are being worn off.

There is a how to article explaining a way to repair it.

I would not do all of the items in the artical. But repairing the tip I would do.

If you do that repair, go on Amazon and buy some electrical flux and solder. With a bit of protection of the wire board via a bit of thin card board and some aluminum from a soda can you could put it between the board and the sweep to do the soldering.



OEM Fuel Sender Repair 1967 Dart

Hi,I already have solder and several soldering irons i used to repair the amps in my jukeboxes,some 50's tv's and radios that I have that had bad electrolytic capacitors or resistors that drifted. Do you have a link to the section on how to repair that tip? I didn't know if it maybe had a little silver contact there like the ones on breaker points or not. That would be nice to get it working.
I'd still like to get the used one I bought repaired around that fuel tube so I could use it. I'm hoping that a radiator shop as you said would be able to do such delicate work. If not and anybody here has any ideas on any kind of ethanol gasoline resistant epoxy i can use let me know. Since I have money into that part i want to be able to use it.

 

[1968 Dart 270]

Heres what the replacement working used Chrysler sender looks like. It's the later factory replacement one. Now that I think about it,epoxy wouldn't be an acceptable repair anyway because the fuel tube needs ro be grounded in order for the gauge to work. So it would need to be soldered or welded.