Unbolting 904 from 318 (anything to watch for?) Also question about rear axle (not 8 3/4)

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67CBodyGuy

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I've just removed the 318 / 904 from my soon-to-be junked '73 Satellite. A long time ago I separated a poly 318 from a 727 and re-attached the 727 to a rebuilt LA318, and if my fuzzy memory is correct there are 4 bolts holding the flex plate to the starter ring? And beyond that it's just removing the outer case bolts and that's all you need to do?

A good amount of oil came out the transmission tail as they were tilted to get out of the engine bay, but will any more come out when I separate it from the engine?

There was a large metal thing bolted to the underside of the tail, at the very end of the tail, I had to take it off to get this whole thing out of the car. What is (was) that for?

The rear axle has a cover with bolts on the side facing the back of the car, so it's not an 8 3/4 right? I guess I need to count the bolts to see what it is. I think the drums are 10" (not 11"). Is there any value in this axle?
 
the 4 converter bolts and the case bolts then wiggle wiggle... will fluid come out? for sure (it will come out the dipstick tube, tailshaft.. anywhere it can).. cause that's life.. how much.. always a surprise :)
 
As noted the converter bolts, the cover bolts, the starter, the dipstick tube might be under a trans to engine bolt but might not do be sure that is separated or removed. The rear trans cross member bolts and remove the rear engine mount (it's really the transmission mount but Chrysler calls it an engine mount) then all the trans to engine bolts.

When you seperated engine from the trans the torque converter may stay with the engine or it may come with the trans. It is full of fluid, like a few quarts. If it comes out of the trans fluid will be everywhere, if it stayed in the trans have a way to keep it in the trans ( preferably all the way) a piece of bent metal that presses on the torque converter and is bolted to a mounting flange hole.


Mymopar.com has free factory service manuals to download, there are procedures in each to do this job..


As for the metal thingy at the end of the tail shaft it was most likely a weight to reduce vibrations for the more luxury cars. There is mention of it in the FSM

if the rear has a cover it is either a 7-1/4, 8-1/4, 9-1/4 / Dana 60

8-3/4 has a removable center section like a Ford 9" and the back of the housing does not have a cover. It is basically round like a moon hubcap.


Also note the index hole in the back of the crank can be a few sizes, early, late, auto, manual, check the torque converter for fit prior to installation. Even if he trans is going back in the same engine
 
I have the book (1973 Imperial Plymouth Chrysler) service manual. Maybe I didn't see it, but I couldn't find any mention or picture showing that tail weight.


Interesting.
 
One learns how to avoid all that big mess after having to clean up a big mess left in the driveway..... junking out (pulling drive trains out of 4 door diplomats ETC....) seems to be the best teacher. I just did one (1985) car for running gear parts........Been there done that with transmission dripping down your arms.. etc... Texas Red
 
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What is this (727 extension housing)?
 
Buy a cheap plastic transmission buttplug to put in the output shaft housing. Problem solved.
 
I've taken that shield off behind the oil pan, and removed one flex bolt. But I can't turn the crank to reach the other bolts. Spark plugs are out, I've sprayed penetrating oil into the cylinders. Is it worth it to make a bar to bolt to the balancer and try to turn it that way? They say marvel mystery oil solves this, but which product exactly?
 
You can pull the trans and leave the torque converter on the engine then access the bolts after. Just pull the trans STRAIGHT back
 

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