Torsion bars

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What is a good size torsion bar to use in a 440 Abody swap? Running 440
I’m doing a big block swap into my barracuda that originally came with a 273 but someone changed a 360. And because my 383/435 has aluminum heads aluminum intake, aluminum water pump I am using the factory torsion bars. My big Block weighs the same as the 360 that I took out. Not sure what size motor you had in your car prior to the 440.
 
I’m doing a big block swap into my barracuda that originally came with a 273 but someone changed a 360. And because my 383/435 has aluminum heads aluminum intake, aluminum water pump I am using the factory torsion bars. My big Block weighs the same as the 360 that I took out. Not sure what size motor you had in your car prior to the 440.
I bought it without motor, but I think it was a small block car
 
I bought it without motor, but I think it was a small block car
You can take the torsion bars and look at the bottom and see what the number is off the top of my head mine are 871and 872 something like that. And you can look those numbers up and it’ll tell you what motor they supported. You can run six cylinder torsion bars if you’re going to race it. But basically it comes down to how you want the car to handle.
 
If you arent racing it, theres probably no such thing as "too large". The current thinking is that mopar factory bars probably should have been bigger in all A & B applications, compared to todays handling standards.
 
In my opinion, the stock bars were way too soft. That is why so many people used KYB shocks with stock springs and torsion bars and seemed okay with it. Once you go with higher spring rates, the KYBs are a poor choice.
I have a Duster with a 360 and the stock .85 torsion bars. It has KYB shocks and rides decent. The 67 Dart has 1.03 bars and generic shocks yet it rides about the same.
My "Jigsaw" Charger 383 has the stock .88 bars and rides way softer than my other Charger with 1.15 bars and Bilstein shocks.
To answer the OP's question, the 1.03s are a decent choice for a small block A body and are the smallest size I'd run on a big block A body.....but I'm a cornering and handling guy, not a drag racer.
 
I went with 1" bars and Bilstein shocks on mine. Manual steering amd added a factory front sway bar.
440 block with alum heads,water pump and housing,and aluminum radiator. Drives like butter and flat and firm in the corners even with 215/60r15 tires on the front. Going to switch to some 205/65r15 V rated tires on the front.
 
I have stock big block bars with my 440 block with alum heads, water pump and housing, and aluminum radiator. Handles decent but I also agree with RRR Post #7.
 
I think you will really be limited to fat autocross/handling bars if you want new. I have a heavy drivetrain in my drag A body (mega block/steel bell/Lenco) but could only get fat bars. I have a set of used slant bars but Im not sure they'll survive. Again this is drag only.
 
So these will handle good with that big block in there?

you'll love them.. put a good set of shocks on too though.. billstein non adjustable minium, adjustable are nice too but add to the $$$$.

like stated, rebuild the front end at the same time. make sure thats all up to the task.

after all the work is done up front you may find out that the rear springs need to be better matched to really make it handle..

here is what is in our dart. you can go way further then i did but our dart is just a great street cruiser..

all new ball joints.
new tie rods and sleeves. (stock 73 dart. if i did it again i'd go with the larger offered now.)
new idler and pitman arms.
RMS adjustable upper arms
RMS adjustable strut rods.
1.08 torsion bars. (i have a small block, he may recommend larger for you.)
these lower arm bushings. BAC Lower Control Arm Pivot and Bushing Package – Mopar A Body -
borgenson steering box which was a huge improvement, BAC Steering Box Upgrade Master Kit - Bergman Auto Craft
hellwig front sway bar
bergman rear springs, 130 lbs spring rate if i remember correctly
billstein shocks all the way around
good aggressive alignment. not near as aggressive as some here run though.

the car rides great, steers awesome and corners damn well.. love how it drives,.



to be honest this is a damn good one stop kit for ya. i pieced mine togeteher over time and from different places. if pete had offered this years ago when i started doing the front end i'd have just gone this way. one stop shopping is nice. BAC Mopar A,B and E Street Front Suspension Kit - Bergman Auto Craft



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If you have headers on your engine be aware that upgrading to a larger bar will mean clearancing some of the header tubes! I replaced the OE bars on my 70 Duster 340 with 1.03 bars & Doug's D453 headers and needed to do so!
 

I just looked for who has what and prices as I am looking.
Surprised a little, had no idea how much.

Mancini 1.03 $379
PST 1.03 $399
Bergman 1.08 $549
 
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I just looked for who has what and prices prices as I am looking.
Surprised a little, had no idea how much.

Mancini 1.03 $379
PST 1.03 $399
Bergman 1.08 $549
The other thing to look for is shipping expenses. Only PST has free ground shipping. BAC has free shipping for purchases over $1K. Those bars are heavy so shipping might be too!
 
I have stock bb bars in my beater. They work well.

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FIVE hundred dollars for a pair of torsion bars is a butt rape.

Given the cost of material, tooling, labor, environmental fees and transport the price is not out of line. You should avoid making flippant comments like that without any direct knowledge of the subject.

I can't comment on the latter part you might be able to enlighten us on that lol

Although many of us are shocked at current performance part prices it would behoove all of us to have some respect for the business owners bringing us options for old Mopar cars.

Perhaps Peter can chime in @BergmanAutoCraft
 
What is a good size torsion bar to use in a 440 Abody swap? Running 440
I used big block bars in my Duster. I had a low deck 512 with aluminum heads. I also used a big anti-sway bar and Koni shocks. That combo worked great.

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