340 engine repair/build questions

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FlamesAreWicked

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Picked up a 71 340 long block (73 J 587 heads) recently that was supposedly a good running engine. After buying it and did some inspection, looks like there was some water in it. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he apologized and offered to help with some money back on making it right again. It was in a running driving car and after it was pulled, that’s when the moisture problem happened. The engine was in another state so pre inspection by me wasn’t an option. I have quite a few questions as this is my first rodeo in this

Currently it has what looks like .030 Silv o lite pistons that are 68-71 style and with 4 reliefs. I have some photos of the bores taken with a bore scope and one of the heads was taken off..

My questions are:

Would going another .010 remedy this?

This will be a cruiser 90% of the time with some spirited street driving here and there.. what would be a good affordable piston to replace them with?

I have reputable machine shop 30 mins from here that can do the work. How would I go about getting this done? If there’s anything I can do to save a few bucks and I’m able to do, I’ll do it. Disassemble everything and bring the parts and have them do the work/reassemble?

With new slugs I’m assuming a balancing job is required?

After taking some measurements it looks the J heads has 2.02 intake valves. Measured the cam lobes and it looks like it’s a .484 lift on the intake side. I noticed the valve springs have dampers and I’ve been told by a friend that was stock?

Anyhow, unfortunate but I’m still in good spirits to have this in my 68 Dart once it’s back to 100% I know enough to know that it’s beyond my current skill set. If it was something thrown together for a demo derby car.. sure I’ll throw it together to last a night or two lol. Some have said it might just need a hone.. that might be possible but I can’t make that call as I don’t have enough experience in such matters. There’s cross hatching in the bores still so it hasn’t had a ton of miles since the work was originally done..


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This is the worst one so far.
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Couple of shots of the head gasket on the head pulled.
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At this point I just hope I can get back on track for install once this repair has been done.. I still have the other cylinder head to take off to inspect the cylinders on that side. To me it would more of a sure thing just go another .010 on it. I’m guessing that may something we won’t know for sure until it’s been opened up? Had it been a stock bore, I wouldn’t be as concerned since I’d have more left on the bone to cut but I digress.. hopefully this didn’t come off as scatterbrained. I’m sure I could do the reassembly myself with help from a friend. I just have zero hands on with this stuff (internal engine) and I’d rather not use this as the test run since it’s a sizable amount of money in all this.
 
Sorry to hear this Matthew. I would definitely follow up with the seller for a partial refund.

It sounds like you're going to have to take it completely apart and let the machine shop check it out. They will be able to measure the bores and the crank and see what needs to be done.
Good luck!
 
I had the exact same situation.

Bores cleaned up @ .040 but one needed 1 sleeve. I used the exact same new Silvolites that you currently have. They are a cast piston that installed at .017 above my deck. I redid my stock rods and used the original forged crank and did not balance. Engine runs strong and smooth. Like you, this is a punchy cruiser engine.

If it were me, I'd try cleaning the rust off with solvent and a scotch brite or some other mild abrasive. Any pits in the "stroke zone" and it would be off to the machine shop for me.

Good luck.
 
Sorry to hear this Matthew. I would definitely follow up with the seller for a partial refund.

It sounds like you're going to have to take it completely apart and let the machine shop check it out. They will be able to measure the bores and the crank and see what needs to be done.
Good luck!
The guy I bought it from did say he’s willing to pay back some cash on it.. just need a game plan. I told him I’d be in touch and depending on what the shop says it needs. If I was a betting man, the shop will wanna open it up some more. I can handle disassembly. Organized and thorough.. I dunno, I would think 10 more over would do it but.. I’m hopeful at this point.
 
I had the exact same situation.

Bores cleaned up @ .040 but one needed 1 sleeve. I used the exact same new Silvolites that you currently have. They are a cast piston that installed at .017 above my deck. I redid my stock rods and used the original forged crank and did not balance. Engine runs strong and smooth. Like you, this is a punchy cruiser engine.

If it were me, I'd try cleaning the rust off with solvent and a scotch brite or some other mild abrasive. Any pits in the "stroke zone" and it would be off to the machine shop for me.

Good luck.
Obviously costs will vary by location but out of curiosity, what did that cost ya? I just assumed they’ll need to be balanced. I’m sure it would be better balanced but for what it’s used for, if it’s not required..
 
We can't tell you over the net if it needs a bore, they need to lay eyes on it. I would take to machine shop on engine stand less the heads and have them spin engine over and chk. You may be good?
New pistons don't necessarily mean a balance job.
Fyi strictly balancing up here in Ont Canada is around the $600 range.
Good luck.
 

Obviously costs will vary by location but out of curiosity, what did that cost ya? I just assumed they’ll need to be balanced. I’m sure it would be better balanced but for what it’s used for, if it’s not required..
All prices CDN......I was $1200 to do the block to .040. That included:

Clean and Mag
Bore and hone
1 sleeve
Light decking to clean up
Install cam bearings, frost plugs, and oil pump bushing.

Silvolite pistons were $550

That was a couple of years ago.
 
Don't know what you paid for the engine but you are looking at the cost of a rebuild. How much is the seller willing to spend?
A 340 block bored .040 is getting a little thin, especially if there is any core shift in the casting.
Sonic check the bores first. Magnaflux the block/crank.
If this is your first engine build, pass on trying to go the economy/DYI build.
Too many things may possibly wrong.
Especially when buying any "rebuilt" engine is a crap shoot to begin with, No way of know what quality of job was done before. and not having the experience and all the proper tools and knowledge can end up being very disappointing/expensive.
Get an estimate to make the short block right and deduct that from the buying price. If it doesn't work out, you would be better off to pass and keep looking.
I have seen several 340 blocks and engine listed lately.
If being "correct" is not a factor, get a 360 or stroker.
Same money as building the 340 and engines are already built, ready to bolt in.


Mopar Small Block “LA” Engine: Bore & Stroke Chart
 
Don't know what you paid for the engine but you are looking at the cost of a rebuild. How much is the seller willing to spend?
A 340 block bored .040 is getting a little thin, especially if there is any core shift in the casting.
Sonic check the bores first. Magnaflux the block/crank.
If this is your first engine build, pass on trying to go the economy/DYI build.
Too many things may possibly wrong.
Especially when buying any "rebuilt" engine is a crap shoot to begin with, No way of know what quality of job was done before. and not having the experience and all the proper tools and knowledge can end up being very disappointing/expensive.
Get an estimate to make the short block right and deduct that from the buying price. If it doesn't work out, you would be better off to pass and keep looking.
I have seen several 340 blocks and engine listed lately.
If being "correct" is not a factor, get a 360 or stroker.
Same money as building the 340 and engines are already built, ready to bolt in.


Mopar Small Block “LA” Engine: Bore & Stroke Chart
without making further damage..leave it together minus the remaining head.. just bring it as is and have them take a look? I’d like to fix it and make it right again.
 
a 340 core plus the price of a rebuild equals total cost? a 340 core can be $1500 no? and thats probably on the low side especially if its carb to pan with manifolds etc.
i do hate to say it but if OP paid 1500 and it needs a rebuild that's the game really...with a 340 there just has to be enough meat for an overbore.
 
Without actually seeing it, and for your application;
I'd be willing to take the chance of just cleaning it up and sending it. What's the worst that can happen?
All my 5, 340s, since 1970, burned oil right from brand new; some worse than others, but I never had one that wasn't hard on oil........ one was even brand new, and one had just 11,000 on it.
 
I was thinking that also take the piston out dingle ball hone it check the ring gap set it back in there and go...thing with a 340 is once you over bore its like grinding down a pencil Id overbore when it absolutely needed it. and Id go as little as possible to clean it up.
 
After some thinking, taking yalls advice to heart… I think the lowest cost option for both parties is to return the engine.. he can repair it, part it out, whatever to make his money back.

I mentioned to him and he’s open to that option so.. that might be the way
 
Those are Silvolites. They are the cast replacements for the 68-71 2 relief pistons. Compression height is different than the oem 72-73 models.
Agree. 4 valve reliefs is so that they can just be mass produced cheaply and used on either side of the engine in any cylinder.
 
That last picture doesn't show much of any ridge at the top of the cylinder and the bore condition doesn't look terrible. It might just clean up with a light ball honing and new rings if the other cylinders don't have significant pitting. Only way to know is to get the heads off so it can be inspected and measurements taken.
 
current game plan is to remove the remaining head off, soak the cylinders down with some PB or WD and turn the engine by hand to see what it looks like in all of the areas on each cylinder.. it’s sitting in my friends shop and he said he spent a tiny bit of time cleaning the one pictured above and it started it come out.. so may not be as serious as it looks. I’d like to save it. Labor and shop rates vary quite a bit.. seller is willing to offer some money back on the engine due to the unforeseen issues.. I wanna be fair, but I wouldn’t be totally sure how much would cover the repair or repairs needed to bring it back to 100%.
 
What about a dingle ball hone and new rings?

This is what i did with a similar engine. Im putting it back together now. The pitted bore builds compression turning by hand the same at the nice bores.
I think it had a weeping head gasket ever since rebuild by previous owner perhaps.

The pitting will still be there after a ball hone.
I would’ve had this bore sleeved but the machine shop isn’t taking new work.

The pic makes it look worse than it is.

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Lotsa 0.060 over 340's running around.
Mine now is +60, and I had 12.5 pistons in it.
Those and 3 sleeves at different times kept it #s matching .
Got a few others I built running around too .
 
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