B5 blue cost to paint duster

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Shadow

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Total paint rookie here. Looking into the prices for a single stage gallon of b5 to paint 72 duster. Called my local paint store and got a quote of $762 for one gallon of paint, 2 quarts reducer, and one quart activator. Nason brand.
Anyone have any input on that brand and the price and would that be a good paint for a beginner?
Any better choices?
 
Ask your local paint stores what their budget lines are. Surely there'll be a PPG dealer that sells Shopline or AutoAura. Or maybe hit up one of the online suppliers - TCP Global, or the like.
 

Ppg has a cheaper line called omni. I used on my twister. I've been painting for 25 years and ive used them all. Paint isn't cheap so no matter what route you go get ready to spend
 
Shadow said:
Total paint rookie here. Looking into the prices for a single stage gallon of b5 to paint 72 duster. Called my local paint store and got a quote of $762 for one gallon of paint, 2 quarts reducer, and one quart activator. Nason brand.
Anyone have any input on that brand and the price and would that be a good paint for a beginner?
Any better choices?
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Has it gone up that much? Kirker is summit racing brand, or was, and a lot cheaper than that last time I did the job. Looks like $110-150 for basic colors for a gallon. Didn't check all the reducer etc. costs. Haven't used nason.

No complaints except I found it smells awful compared to PPG

Edit: actually summit is kirker. Fixed it.
 
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If you are a total paint rookie like you say, I wouldnt suggest getting the absolute cheapest paint you can find, you still want to get something that isnt too difficult to spray or to lay the metallics down. Remember you get what you pay for.
Whatever you end up getting, you should get an "instruction sheet" giving you details on mixing your paint, what pressure to spray at, flash times, etc, make sure you follow them.
Youve got some kahonies starting out with a single stage metallic blue as your first paint job! Good luck, hope it works out for you!
 
Ok great I will look into those other brands and places to see what they offer. The duster is an original b5 car that the previous owner painted black and i love the b5 with a white or black duster stripe set so I’m giving it a shot.
 
I just got done with painting my car GY3 last fall and I used omni too. But there is no metal flake in citron Yella. I think with the reducer, paint and harder I was in it for about 500. I did end up with some orange peeling but I wet sanded it out. I still need to to touch it up in few spots after I had to do some repairs when the windshield was out. but I’m overall very happy with it.

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If you go base coat clear coat (yup! I’m that guy) you use a lot less color and then clear over the top.

I like single stage myself but I found bc/cc is cheaper for all over full paint.

Napa near me carries a line called transtar. I’m using it for the 70’s dodge van I’m building now. But, after shooting ppg Omni. Not much more money and easier to use. As for the cost - that estimate is pretty good but you will spend $250 on masking supplies, thinner and cleaners and a gallon of wax and oil remover. So $1000 is very cheap. I’m not sure if that quote included a primer sealer? That can run you another $300.00

What ever you do, stay with-in the same system (brand name) mix matching to save a few Pennies will cost you in the long run due to incompatibility issues.
Syleng1
 
lenky1 said:
Ppg has a cheaper line called omni. I used on my twister. I've been painting for 25 years and ive used them all. Paint isn't cheap so no matter what route you go get ready to spend
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It was my understanding that if you were trying to match an oem color Omni may not. As for an overall paint job it would be a great choice and much cheaper in price than PPG but good quality.
 
A few reasons for me deciding to shooting single stage were, It was my first time painting a car, I did it a blowup spray booth and if I got “trash” in any of the coats that I would be able to sand it out and not have to worry about respraying bc/cc. In the future if I have to get aggressive with a compound to remove any scratches the paint will be there before burning through. Some rough numbers
Masking stuff- 300
Primer sealer- 200
Wax and grease remover- 100
Filters and mixing cups-75
Lint free rags-25
Omni reducer -100
Omni Hardener 75
2 gallons single stage Omni -500- 600
I would have to agree with Syleng1, 1,500 should get you within the ball park with out spray gun and air compressor stuff

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I used PPG single stage black on my Ragtop. Dam thing keeps fading. I have to buff it every year. Single stage may not be what it use to be. PPG was one of the best out there. I used PPG basecoat clearcoat on my hardtop, and it stays up and shiny all the time. Both cars live outside. I painted them my garage. Made a filter door and added filters to the top of the garage door with a fan in the window at opposite end on garage.

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I suggest before you pull the trigger on the car itself get a junk fender or something and do some test sprays so you get the feel for it and how the metallic reacts
 
B5 is one of my favorite colors. Mine is bc/cc. It cost me about $400.00 is sealer, primer, paint, clear, grinding/sanding disc's, tape, paper and supplies to paint my engine bay after filling all of the factory holes and cage snout bars coming through the firewall.

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That’s a serious machine right there. Looks good. Starting to rethink about the single stage after seeing how others paint jobs are coming out and all the associated work just to get a car ready for paint. I do wonder though is the clear coat more likely to lift or peel in a hot climate? I’ve seen a lot of that around here.
 
Uv is a paint killer. Modern clear coats have come a long way. Unless this thing is going to sit in the sun all day every day you won't have issues. Correct prep is going to make or break a good paint job
 
When you price the B-5 code for a paint quote make sure you use the year of the car or you could end up with something you may not want. It could also affect the price of the paint.
 
jeff alder said:
When you price the B-5 code for a paint quote make sure you use the year of the car or you could end up with something you may not want. It could also affect the price of the paint.
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True, each year is a slightly different shade.
 
B5 is obviously metallic... No chance I'd spray a metallic in single stage... You can't color sand a metallic single stage, touch ups are nearly impossible to hide...

The color changes are
69 & 70 EB5
71-72 GB5


Both are great colors, the 71-72 GB5 has more of a blue/gray tone...

FWIW Starting in 69 the paint code will tell you the first year the color was used.. Mopar had a Alpha-numeric code that had been used for years to ID model year on certain components like Engines...

A = 1965
B = 1966
C = 1967
D = 1968
E = 1969
F = 1970
G = 1971

So EB5 was first used in 1969 and GB5 was first used in 1971..
 
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