randy73duster
Active Member
Ok so im. Green to A body im going to replace my torsion bars in my car its all apart. I need guidance on reinstall do you need to clock the arms in lca ANY help would be great fulll
Torsion bars install
- Thread starter randy73duster
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Mymopar.com
Download the closest factory service manual to your car / year.
There is a procedure to follow
Download the closest factory service manual to your car / year.
There is a procedure to follow
The exact reversal of how you removed them would probably work best.
randy73duster
Active Member
Maybe
define: it's all apart
are the t-bars just out of it? or is the whole front end all blowed apart?
sequence (and amount of typing) is different for each.
but basically:
>no you don't have to clock them.
>YES there is a left side and right side
>no there is no front or rear
abridged version: level off the lower, maybe hanging down a bit but not up. pull the blade around with the hex socket until it's met the adjusting bolt with the divot. run the bar in from the back and find the hex in the cross member to meet it up, then adjust the position of the lower and adjuster so that the bar meets the hex. tap it in and you done.
don't forget to roll the adjusters back in or you'll be on the bump stops. don't torque the LCA pin nut until you're at ride height (if you have rubber lower bushings).
are the t-bars just out of it? or is the whole front end all blowed apart?
sequence (and amount of typing) is different for each.
but basically:
>no you don't have to clock them.
>YES there is a left side and right side
>no there is no front or rear
abridged version: level off the lower, maybe hanging down a bit but not up. pull the blade around with the hex socket until it's met the adjusting bolt with the divot. run the bar in from the back and find the hex in the cross member to meet it up, then adjust the position of the lower and adjuster so that the bar meets the hex. tap it in and you done.
don't forget to roll the adjusters back in or you'll be on the bump stops. don't torque the LCA pin nut until you're at ride height (if you have rubber lower bushings).
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Keep in mind there is a LH and RH I believe odd number LH and even # RH. (I think?) Can someone confirm? My memory is good but it's short.
And post 2 as suggested.
And post 2 as suggested.
that's correct there is a left and right hand. it is stamped in the end of the torsion bar
randy73duster
Active Member
yes the front was all apart I change the k-fame and all the upper and lower control arm bushings I've never done this so im a newbie
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Once the lca is in, back the adjuster off and make sure the pivoting adjuster arm is turned all the way to the adjuster bolt before installing the bar. If not may not achieve full adjustment. Also don't tighten the control arm to kframe bolt completely until it's all together then jack up car from under the LCA so weight of the car is on it and then tighten or you will twist and ruin the new bushing.
Still download the free manual!
Still download the free manual!
Last edited:
Yes and also a front and back.
randy73duster
Active Member
I know about left n right but the torsion bars has a front n back how do you tell that haven't heard of this before so if so do the L n R making go go to the back or front when installed
at what stage are you now, because sequence matters and you could be battling against the components if you did Z before X and Y.
there is no front and back. only left and right
it's generally assumed that you should install the bars with the numbers (or ID for aftermarkets) in the back for future identification.
randy73duster
Active Member
k-frame is all in ,lca are in just hand tight, uppers control arm are in hand tight ,they are not torque ,spindals are not in torsionbar are in left and right in rear cross member adjuster bolt are back all the way off not touching the arm as I call it .Where would the position of the lca be to install torsion bars. I tried with lca down as far it would go slid in the torsion bars adjuster bolt back off all the way with adjuster arm all the way down touching the adjuster bolt threaded then installed spindal when and bump stop there was no plat between adjuster bolt and arm sorry
So long
So long
randy73duster
Active Member
I didn't think this was right so I pull it back apart
i'm having trouble parsing your message.
are you saying that there's no play in the adjuster? with the bar in, the wing on the adjuster should come around and catch the adjustment bolt-- or just about-- and when snugged up there shouldn't be any play.
a picture would probably be a tremendous help here.
are you saying that there's no play in the adjuster? with the bar in, the wing on the adjuster should come around and catch the adjustment bolt-- or just about-- and when snugged up there shouldn't be any play.
a picture would probably be a tremendous help here.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Spindle installed then Torsion bar last.
This. Left and right, no front or back. But yeah, really helps to have the numbers at the cross member so you can check what you've got later.
I haven't seen it so far, but what torsion bars are we talking about? As in, what size/number? Because that does make a difference, especially if they're not factory. And I'm assuming we're talking about factory LCA's as well?
So when the spindle is installed, and the UCA is sitting on the upper bump stop, the torsion bar lever is tight against the adjusting bolt with the bolt threaded all the way out?
Again, it depends on what torsion bars you have, but that's fine. With factory bars there is tension on the adjusters when the suspension is at full extension, usually a decent amount too, especially with smaller torsion bars. In fact, you always want some tension on the adjusters at full extension.
Not necessary. You can install the torsion bars with just the LCA. It might require removing the torsion bar adjusters when you install the spindles, but, that's not a problem. You want to be careful not to mis-clock the LCA on the torsion bar hex, but, with factory bars and LCA's that's almost impossible anyway. Mis-clocking the LCA is typically only something you can do with aftermarket torsion bars AND aftermarket LCA's.
randy73duster
Active Member
With the uppers n lower n spindal all installed and torsion bars the adjuster arm and adjuster bolt there is no place the bolt is back all the way off
okay, i can't help you. i'm sorry.
I think I'm understanding what you are saying
Question... Did you install the torsion bars with the spindles and upper and lower control arms assembled or was the lower control arm loose?
I'm my dart #2 with the suspension at full droop no bumpers I can loosen the adjuster till it comes out with the body supported.
You might have put the card in with the lower in the wrong position so they would be considered preloaded at full droop.
Thats not what you want.
This is 100% false.
At full droop the adjusters MUST still be loaded. How much so depends on the size and hex offset of the torsion bars. This is exactly why drag racers use /6 torsion bars, because in order to have a reasonable ride height they have to be significantly loaded by the adjusters at full droop.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, my 1.12” torsion bars twist very little under load. As a result, I had to use taller upper bump stops to keep the torsion bar adjusters from becoming unloaded at full droop at the ride height I run.
If the adjuster becomes unloaded at full droop, the adjusting bolt could come off the adjusting lever, and then you’d be without suspension.
randy73duster
Active Member
Thanks any way there's no play between the adjuster arm the bolt when all installed
I installed with just the lower control arm i did not have the upper or spindal installed. this is how i installed my torsion bars i put the lower control arm in k frame hand tightin the nut w the lower control arm hang all the way down i slid in the torsion bars in the lca know at this point the adjuster arm is as shows in my picture on my hand screwed in
No front and back? Now yall are gonna make me go check my Mopar suspension book.
And if you install the rest of the suspension you’ll most likely need to thread the adjuster further in to get the appropriate ride height. This is with the suspension unloaded and with no idea of what your final ride height will be, so at the moment there’s nothing to suggest this is a problem.
And you still haven’t told us what torsion bars those are!
No sir, no front and back. Reversing the front and back doesn’t change the direction the ends of the bar are twisted or the offset on the hex.
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