Clutch adj rod suggestions

[TheGrateRonzini]

Hello everyone,
I’m wondering if anyone has a suggestion on which clutch adjustment rod I should use. Car in question is an a-100 with an 833.
There was some poor geometry within the clutch rod and z bar. It was has been a problem since we put the stroker in. Previously /6 in front of said 833. The initial rod stripped, but I was unsure of the condition. The next two did as well. The last one still had a little life to it, so I modified the zbar so it wouldn't bind. It was still a compromised piece. Anyway, is there an aftermarket more durable part that is made? Is the big block and hemi a stronger piece? Like bigger diameter bolt? I feel like I could fab something if I had to, but a swap would be preferred.
Thanks
Ron

 

[340sport]

I would call Jamie Passon and inquire.

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[Dan Brewer]

Hello everyone,
I’m wondering if anyone has a suggestion on which clutch adjustment rod I should use. Car in question is an a-100 with an 833.
There was some poor geometry within the clutch rod and z bar. It was has been a problem since we put the stroker in. Previously /6 in front of said 833. The initial rod stripped, but I was unsure of the condition. The next two did as well. The last one still had a little life to it, so I modified the zbar so it wouldn't bind. It was still a compromised piece. Anyway, is there an aftermarket more durable part that is made? Is the big block and hemi a stronger piece? Like bigger diameter bolt? I feel like I could fab something if I had to, but a swap would be preferred.
Thanks
Ron

If you are stripping the threads off, I would say there are definitely some geometry issues. Can you post a few pics of what your dealing with? /6 through BB/Hemi's all used the same threaded rod design. Some are different lengths, offsets, etc...but same thread / nut size.

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

I’m claiming to have corrected the geometry issue the last time it got stripped. If not corrected, most definitely better. I just reused the last adj rod on wing and prayer. I was looking at the options on your site, Dan. I think I’m using a body bell with a trunion 833. 65 I think. Not sure the diameter. It’s a bit tricky on my end, cause I was throwing whatever I had on hand at it. Maybe even ordered one from you, Dan. I cut and lengthened the z bar to alleviate the issue.

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

I’ll try and get pics. It’s a hobbled cobbled mess under there

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Hello everyone,
I’m wondering if anyone has a suggestion on which clutch adjustment rod I should use. Car in question is an a-100 with an 833.
There was some poor geometry within the clutch rod and z bar. It was has been a problem since we put the stroker in. Previously /6 in front of said 833. The initial rod stripped, but I was unsure of the condition. The next two did as well. The last one still had a little life to it, so I modified the zbar so it wouldn't bind. It was still a compromised piece. Anyway, is there an aftermarket more durable part that is made? Is the big block and hemi a stronger piece? Like bigger diameter bolt? I feel like I could fab something if I had to, but a swap would be preferred.
Thanks
Ron

You need the correct z bar for the bellhousing used in that particular vehicle. Aside from that any of the rods will work given they're a good shape. Sometimes you have to cut and lengthen the rod which you can do by simply cutting the thread off and using another bolt shoulder and Welding it in between the hole and the thread. Use two nut when setting the rod adjustment...to lock it tight

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Thanks. Unfortunately I don’t think there is a “correct” z bar for my application. The a-100 never had a 4spd. One side of the z bar goes to the stud on the bell and the other is a stud through bolted, 2 bolt mounting through the frame. The rod that goes from pedal to z, goes along the outside of the frame from about where the seat would end at the z to the pedal linkage under the truck. I never made the clutch side of z longer when we put it together after the v8 swap. Until a few weeks ago. Now that I feel the geometry is reasonable, the already stripped rod has given up. I’ll get some pictures for you Dan and we’ll see what you think would be ideal. I’ll measure effective length and all that. I was considering entering heim joint territory

 

[Kendog 170]

Brewers has them as well.
Select by Category - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

 

[AJ/FormS]

Since my first 4-speed in 1970, I have never wore out one of those, and I've been driving A833s almost continuously.
Of course, I have always run A-bodies with the factory pre-engineered pieces.
Ima thinking, a clutch pedal in an A100, would be quite the challenge, lol.

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Ok, so I found some pics from when we put the engine in on my phone. A cool 6 years ago. It’s my buddy’s truck. I’m kinda married to it now. There is a whole lotta wrong going on there as far as clutch rod. I don’t see a spring or the correct bushings. This has kind of been a make it work to get him back on the road kind of thing, and although it should have been done correct the first time, we used a lot of the old set up for reference and in practical use. I would assume use the one for that bell? My friend went out of town Thursday morning, so I have no current images like he was supposed to send Weds. measurements and stuff

 

[dadsbee]

Why is the nut on the wrong side...

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Hahaha. You mean why is one of the nuts. I stated above, we kinda used what he had on hand. I would venture to guess the clutch fork riding on the threads between the nuts has something to do with it. I’m not trying to find out why it was getting stripped. The correct part, or kit is what I’m after. I’m sure the big block valve spring retaining washer isn’t supposed to be there either.

 

[Daves69]

The correct part, or kit is what I’m after.

Not sure if this helps ya' at all. Both of these are what MP was pushing for A engine A body.

Way back, to make myself feel better about possible adjust rod bend/deflect concern, I welded a tube to a lug nut. Ran a couple nuts up the threads for locking the adjustment. Slid the apparatus over the rod. Eliminated the insulator.
A copy & paste up for a visual......

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

Thank you! I like that. I’m going to give it a go with the kit and keep this in mind. Much appreciated