Dumping the FBO timing advance plate.

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I didn't say specifically but I was referring to the slot length chart so distributor degrees then. I don't follow 'weld the inside edge'. It was my understanding the inside edges just guide the pin and the end of the slot limits the total travel.

See the pic mattax posted above... about inside edge.
 
Yep on the asking how things are installed. Most places have these things called "INSTRUCTIONS"

My favorite for years was how do I wire up a MSD-6? You're on the internet, got to the MFing manufactures site and look them up...
Better not look at the FB groups nowadays. There are lots of 'how do you do this' posts that don't get answered. Everybody wants someone to tell them exactly what to do instead of at least reading some old posts in a forum or using Google and doing a little research. I have recommended they join a forum on occasion.

See the pic mattax posted above... about inside edge.
Oh yes I just skipped through most of that initially. I'd have to get into the distributor and study the parts movement some more but if there is enough room for the arm to rotate out with a long slot then a shorter slot should be fine. Perhaps the movement would be smoother with an angled slot that matched the arc. It shouldn't take long with a small carbide burr.
 
Better not look at the FB groups nowadays. There are lots of 'how do you do this' posts that don't get answered. Everybody wants someone to tell them exactly what to do instead of at least reading some old posts in a forum or using Google and doing a little research. I have recommended they join a forum on occasion.


Oh yes I just skipped through most of that initially. I'd have to get into the distributor and study the parts movement some more but if there is enough room for the arm to rotate out with a long slot then a shorter slot should be fine. Perhaps the movement would be smoother with an angled slot that matched the arc. It shouldn't take long with a small carbide burr.
It's always better to learn something on your own after someone points you in a direction, rather than get it handed to you on a silver platter. Then, you know the WHY and HOW. But so many around here and everywhere else want it just handed over. When we were coming up, things were different. We wanted to know the WHY and HOW first. Because without that, you have no learning. It's like jumping straight to EFI without learning how a carburetor works. You'll always have a hole in your learning.
 

LOL. As a kid I wanted to know WHY some of the phone numbers started with letters. HUmbolt 2 and Drexel 9 are two exchanges from growing up. Useless information but still fun.
ours was Sherwood. 74.......
 
I think it was the Lawrence Welk Show. Plumbing and heating sticks in my head . FAREFAX 8-8521.
 
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I think it was the Lawrence Welk Show. Plumbing and heating sticks in my head . FAREFAX 8521.
Ours was Sherwood 28698. The number is actually still good, but no longer mine. I actually called the new owner YEARS ago and offered him 100 bucks for it. No dice. LOL
 
Oh yes I just skipped through most of that initially. I'd have to get into the distributor and study the parts movement some more but if there is enough room for the arm to rotate out with a long slot then a shorter slot should be fine. Perhaps the movement would be smoother with an angled slot that matched the arc. It shouldn't take long with a small carbide burr.
Post 44 shows it and Rob's explains how to figure it in post 48.
Another picture in lets revisit timing

The reasons I push welding the inside are:
a) Most of the electronic distributors are from the early smog era. The advance immediately above idle rpm is designed to make up for the retarded initial timing and get back to normal. This part of the advance isn't wanted with a normal inital timing. Even more so with a hot rod engine that wants an initial of 15 degrees or more.
b) Stopping the advance early in the rpms with eletronic ignition results in retard. This was an old 1/4 mile trick that worked fine with points but not with electronics.

edit - missing letter I :rolleyes: :)
 
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Ours was Sherwood 28698. The number is actually still good, but no longer mine. I actually called the new owner YEARS ago and offered him 100 bucks for it. No dice. LOL
I think that was Spokane. We were just numbers around here, with party lines. Started out with 4 numbers and then to 5 numbers and 7 numbers. Now we need to add the area code. There will soon be two area codes for Montana.
 
Ours was Sherwood 28698. The number is actually still good, but no longer mine. I actually called the new owner YEARS ago and offered him 100 bucks for it. No dice. LOL
That's a bummer.

When I got to know the older nieghbors here on my block in West Philly many still had the original exchange. A nifty one was the Milners Apothacary at 4400 Chestnut St with a phone number matching the street address EVergreen7 - 4400. Once I realized what they did I never forget it. Too bad they're gone. Old school place packed with stuff, a half dozen employees, and never sold you anything you didn't need.
 
I think that was Spokane. We were just numbers around here, with party lines. Started out with 4 numbers and then to 5 numbers and 7 numbers. Now we need to add the area code. There will soon be two area codes for Montana.
Somewhere I read an article about the history of the exchanges and how the named exchanges got rolled out over time in different parts of the country. Probably it was done only as needed, but I don't recall now the full reason of how it worked. Parents of a gal I knew in upstate NY still had a party line in the 1990s.
 
Post 44 shows it and Rob's explains how to figure it in post 48.
Another picture in lets revisit timing

The reasons push welding the inside are
a) Most of the electronic distributors are from the early smog era. The advance immediately above idle rpm is designed to make up for the retarded initial timing and get back to normal. This part of the advance isn't wanted with a normal inital timing. Even more so with a hot rod engine that wants an initial of 15 degrees or more.
b) Stopping the advance early in the rpms with eletronic ignition results in retard. This was an old 1/4 mile trick that worked fine with points but not with electronics.
Sorry, I am a technical guy but I don't follow. What is push welding? At the end of the day a plotted curve tells you the end result of the movement of the parts. I'm not wanting to reinvent that I just need a functioning distributor with limited mechanical advance although I enjoy learning from the deep dives. Unfortunately my new MP distributor should have been gone through before running it. I may start a separate post on that.
 
Sorry, I am a technical guy but I don't follow. What is push welding? At the end of the day a plotted curve tells you the end result of the movement of the parts. I'm not wanting to reinvent that I just need a functioning distributor with limited mechanical advance although I enjoy learning from the deep dives. Unfortunately my new MP distributor should have been gone through before running it. I may start a separate post on that.
I do not see any particular welding technique contributing to the success of welding on a distributor plate.
 
Somewhere I read an article about the history of the exchanges and how the named exchanges got rolled out over time in different parts of the country. Probably it was done only as needed, but I don't recall now the full reason of how it worked. Parents of a gal I knew in upstate NY still had a party line in the 1990s.
Were y'all ever able to dial using five numbers? We could before all the other prefixes showed up. I think the last I did that was in the late 70s.
 
I do not see any particular welding technique contributing to the success of welding on a distributor plate.
First ones I did were with oxy-acetylene. That's when I first figured out that welding the outside didn't do what the magazines said. I can assure you that after hitting that govorner with heat several time as I changed it, it got pretty fugly. LOL (I wasn't laughing at the time though!)
 
Were y'all ever able to dial using five numbers? We could before all the other prefixes showed up. I think the last I did that was in the late 70s.
No. All the placed lived were always 7, 3 for the exchange and then 4 for phone. I read someone figured out it was easy for people to remember combinations of three and four.
 
I know it's been talked about before, but what are the advantages in welding the inside of the slots VS the outside and does it really make that much difference?
 
I know it's been talked about before, but what are the advantages in welding the inside of the slots VS the outside and does it really make that much difference?
One reason is that we can then use the Chrysler springs.
The long loop heavy springs in particular make it possible for the timing to continue advancing close to or past the torque peak.
You've seen the video's where the locked out distributor reuslts in retard.
So if we weld the outside of the slots and stop the advance at 2800 or 3000 rpm, when the engine at 6000 rpm, timing the engine sees is less than it was at 3000. :( (talking electronic boxes here, not points)

The other thing the long spring can do is slow the advance around 1500 to 1800 rpm. This is helpful when running vacuum advance.
 
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My fault. I'm a lousy typist.
It should read, I push welding the inside...
One letter, one word, but an important one. LOL
In general welding the inside is better.
So what you are saying is building curve into the advance plate itself. I think I'm getting it.
 
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