mopowers
Well-Known Member
I realize that. My question was whether the same slot length in the MP Mallory units and factory units (after welding and filing) results in the same amount of advance.
Mopar Performance Distributor adjustable advance?
- Thread starter 65barracudaLA
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Just ask whatever you ain't gettin and we'll do our bestest to help you understand. The red keys for example. Each one is a different thickness. You loosen the advance screw on the breaker plate on those distributors and use the keys to stick in the slot to give you "whatever" advance you're looking for. The length of that slot controls how much advance you get. Bigger slot = more advance.
Oh ok. Now THAT I don't know, but I would just bet not, since they are completely different designs.
Any time you need help with this stuff, the call is free, LOL
The weld it up slot lengths for the winged plates on old style/OEM are different
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Of course they are. Because if they were the same, that'd be too easy.
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
Thank you for all your replies! I was already looking for a new distributor not knowing that the one I had was actually a really good one.
Thank you, I always appreciate learning how it's done correctly!
I did find the tuning keys on ebay and they even come with springs. I also ordered a new reluctor because the one in the distributor is pretty chewed up.
Thank you, I always appreciate learning how it's done correctly!
I did find the tuning keys on ebay and they even come with springs. I also ordered a new reluctor because the one in the distributor is pretty chewed up.
You're certainly welcome and remember, if you get hung up on something, don't be bashful. Just ask. We can walk you right through it.
Just the non adjustable ones with a fixed slot on the advance cam
So, the purple chart does not apply to the op's distributor? @abodyjoe @halifaxhops
Probably not......but it "might". I don't know of anyone who has ever compared.
You will likely not be able to buy springs to control that advance mechanism. You can’t get a spring that is stiff enough.
I had new weights made just for these distributors so that I can do some testing and see if i can change the weight and shape of the weights to get a better curve.
Depending on your engine you may be able to get a reasonable curve with what you have.
I had new weights made just for these distributors so that I can do some testing and see if i can change the weight and shape of the weights to get a better curve.
Depending on your engine you may be able to get a reasonable curve with what you have.
The purple chart is for the OEM distributor wing plate slots.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
correct
Someone commented that you should toss in the nearest garbage can. I'd add, buy an MSD distributor. They have the advance springs on top, instead of underneath. Setting your advance is a piece of cake.I got one of those FBO limiter plates and was about to set it in the distributor, when I noticed two things. At first I noticed that the reluctor was a bit unevenly worn and the pick-up wasn't parallel to it. I'm sure that can't be good.
Upon closer inspection it looks like the plate is bent. I think I can bend that back.
I noticed that the FBO limiter plate is not going to work, but that the adjustment can be done with an allen wrench?! I don't know for sure that this is a Mopar Performance distributor and there is no part number on it, but when I looked at photos of MP distributors, they look just like it. Anyways, what I like about the FBO plate was that you could set your initial and then set total based on that number plus whatever added up to 34. My initial was 22, so I was going to use the #12 slot. I wish I had opened that distributor before I ordered the plate and the springs, which I don't think will work either. Anyways, any idea how I can set this up without having to take it out again 15 times?
OK I need to wake this old thread up!! I have one of these MP distributors with Mallory internals. I thought I had a grasp on it but not getting alot that is being said. Let's say you want 22 initial, exactly what does that mean or better yet how do I achieve it in this distributor?
It's isn't just putting the red stick marked 22 and opening the weights that amount correct?
Right now I set the space with the 18 stick so what exactly did that do???
With the car running at idle I have appro. 12 degrees and then I power timed it to 34 total but it cranks hard when hot. Do you double that # and it means you have 36 degrees??? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ron
It's isn't just putting the red stick marked 22 and opening the weights that amount correct?
Right now I set the space with the 18 stick so what exactly did that do???
With the car running at idle I have appro. 12 degrees and then I power timed it to 34 total but it cranks hard when hot. Do you double that # and it means you have 36 degrees??? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ron
Which Mallory advance mechanism? There were two common ones used.
One has weights that look like an OE Chrysler weight and the other uses a thin weight.
The Chrysler style weight style uses one plastic gauge (or stick if you will) that has multiple steps on it to set the mechanical advance limit.
The one with the flat, thin weights has multiple gauges, each with one advance limit on it.
The two are not interchangeable.
With that out of the way, either system behaves the same way. The bigger number on the gauge means you will get more mechanical advance. That is the total amount of advance. The springs and the weight of the weights will establish the shape of the curve.
It all works together.
If you used the 18 degree gauge it means that at some point in the rpm range you will achieve 18 degrees of total mechanical advance. Then you add to that your initial timing (whatever your timing is at idle) and you will know the total amount of mechanical advance you have.
So let’s say at a 1k rpm idle you have the timing at 18 degrees. And you have used your gauge to set the mechanical advance limit to 18 degrees. So that means with 18 degrees at idle at some point in the rpm range you will end up with 36 degrees of total timing which is initial plus mechanical.
If you use really light springs you will get to your 36 total far quicker than really heavy springs. So you can set the distributor up with springs so light you get full timing by 2500 rpm, which I consider very fast. If you use the heaviest spring you can find you might get to 4000 rpm to get your 36 total.
To get it any later than that you’d need heavier springs than what I can find commercially available or you have to modify the weight.
I can tell you that modifying the weight and trying to see the curve I the car is very difficult. Because not only the amount of the weight you remove will affect the rpm which advance starts but where you remove the weight of the weight will definitely change how the shape of the curve is formed.
Hi I just read your comment, I have the MP with thin weights and use the multiple sticks each marked differently not the stepped stick I had years ago with a Mallory Unilite.
Ok so at 900-1000 rpm after setting with the stick marked 18 I had 12 degrees so you add the 18 and 12 together and that means I have 30 degrees initial??? If that is how it goes isn't that crazy high?? I still confused by all this and is this why I have warm slow cranking??
Thanks Ron
Ok so at 900-1000 rpm after setting with the stick marked 18 I had 12 degrees so you add the 18 and 12 together and that means I have 30 degrees initial??? If that is how it goes isn't that crazy high?? I still confused by all this and is this why I have warm slow cranking??
Thanks Ron
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Changing the advance range also changes the starting rpm and slowdown degrees. If you read through the links you can learn how it works.
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
I use a drill bit or allen wrench to set the gap. Every .010" is approx 1*
All info is in the manual.
All info is in the manual.
I have the paperwork with my adjustment kit but I am not understanding it properly.
When people say I have 20 initial what exactly does that mean and how is that obtained? Is it already built in the distributor??
I thought initially I was doing it with the sticks. EX. If i adjusted the gap with 18 stick I was thinking I then had 18 degrees initial but what I think you guys are saying is 18 + the 12 degrees I see at idle means my distributor has 30 degrees mechanical so if so exactly what is that doing for me??
How would I get the engine to have say 20 degrees at idle to help with my 245 @ .050 545 lift cam's idle characteristics??
TY Ron
When people say I have 20 initial what exactly does that mean and how is that obtained? Is it already built in the distributor??
I thought initially I was doing it with the sticks. EX. If i adjusted the gap with 18 stick I was thinking I then had 18 degrees initial but what I think you guys are saying is 18 + the 12 degrees I see at idle means my distributor has 30 degrees mechanical so if so exactly what is that doing for me??
How would I get the engine to have say 20 degrees at idle to help with my 245 @ .050 545 lift cam's idle characteristics??
TY Ron
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
initial timing is what it is at idle and vac advance unhooked.
total is where ever it tops out at RPM. vac advance still unhooked.
total is where ever it tops out at RPM. vac advance still unhooked.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
the slots are how much advance is in the dist.
you want 20 at idle and what total? 35ish? then you want 15 degrees of advance curve.
the springs basically determine the RPM total is achieved.
you want 20 at idle and what total? 35ish? then you want 15 degrees of advance curve.
the springs basically determine the RPM total is achieved.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
no. initial is where ever you set it at idle. the 18 is the amount of mechanical advance. so it would work out if you set initial at 20 you have 38 total timing.
20 initial timing + 18 mechanical advance. does that make sense?
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